Bobbin problems

[Jim Fitz]

I seem to have the worst luck with bobbins. I now have 3 tagged for use only with floss, 3/0 or other types of rope. My problem is that after some use they start shredding thread and cutting it without much tension. I think I must be doing something wrong. Too much tension? Bad luck?

Some questions: how long should a bobbin last? How often do they switch from working fine to being thread cutters (in other words, what is the chances this will happen)? Is there any way to repair them? Based on a search on this, I belive the anwer is no, especially a ceramic bobbin.

I generally buy cheaper bobbins (and cheaper everything else). My logic is a $10 ceramic bobbin is still a ceramic bobbin and should work fine.

I have not used Kevlar with these bobbins - mainly 6/0 and some 8/0. Switching thread doesn't help - it is the bobbin (or me) that is the problem. I did not drop them. And yes I know I should have take them back immediately but I am lazy and at this point can't remember which ones I got where.

Any advice apprciated.

[Big Tuna]

I own nothing but cheap bobbins and I've never had any problems. Mine are mostly Griffins. I don't think any of them are ceramic. You might try those. I wonder if the cheaper ceramics are prone to getting groooved under pressure?

I seem to have the worst luck with bobbins. I now have 3 tagged for use only with floss, 3/0 or other types of rope. My problem is that after some use they start shredding thread and cutting it without much tension. I think I must be doing something wrong. Too much tension? Bad luck?

Some questions: how long should a bobbin last? How often do they switch from working fine to being thread cutters (in other words, what is the chances this will happen)? Is there any way to repair them? Based on a search on this, I belive the anwer is no, especially a ceramic bobbin.

I generally buy cheaper bobbins (and cheaper everything else). My logic is a $10 ceramic bobbin is still a ceramic bobbin and should work fine.

I have not used Kevlar with these bobbins - mainly 6/0 and some 8/0. Switching thread doesn't help - it is the bobbin (or me) that is the problem. I did not drop them. And yes I know I should have take them back immediately but I am lazy and at this point can't remember which ones I got where.

Any advice apprciated.

[Josh Brower]

make sure they are the beveled tip, the strait ones have a sharp edge on them, and tend to cut thread.

[halcyon]

Remember that your coffee mug and your china is also ceramic but it certainly isn't a material that would stand up to use as a thread bobbin holder tip. When ceramic guides for fishing rods first came out they were very expensive and many cheaper versions of porcelain were sold as "ceramic", which they are, but not the "ceramic" of the higher priced product. Like most things in life you get what you pay for in bobbin holders. On the other hand, I only use Matarelli bobbin holders which are stainless steel and have never had one go bad. Mine are now 30 years old and have tied 10s of thousands of flies.

Regards,

[sashjo]

Invest in ceramic!

[FT]

Jim,

I have a bunch of S&M bobbins (something like 15 of them) simply because I like the way the fit in the hand and feel when in use. Two of them I've been using since the early 70's and neither cuts thread. I use the S&M's for 6/0 & 8/0 thread and have so many of them because I have them loaded with different colors of thread. The S&M bobbins are among the lowest priced on the market with a retail price of about $6.00. They are made of chrome plated steel with a beveled barrel with wide sides that are as big across as a thread spool.

I also have a bunch of Griffin heavy duty ceramic bobbins (like 12 of them), again I like them. These I use for flat waxed nylon (210 denier thread as it is now called) for spinning deer hair, for use with Uni-Stretch, and for use with Uni-Floss.

In other words, a decent bobbin, which is not necessarily the most expensive one, should last a long time without thread fraying problems. Heck, two of the S&M's I have are in use for over 30 years and they don't cut thread despite having tied 10's of thousands of flies.

[Jim Fitz]

Thanks for the info. Although I am still confounded as to why this is happening.

FT - Your tying bench must be something else. If I had as many bobbins as you, I'd be able to put every spool of thread I own on one and have a couple of spares.

[scottflycst]

Jim,
Are you keeping an eye on your thread as you tie? When it becomes twisted too tight it will break. Also, you're not cleaning your bobbins with incorrect tools are you? My impression is your problem may not be with the bobbin.
Scott

[FT]

Jim,

Keep in mind that I built up the number of bobbins I have over a number of years and that I use so many of them because I hate to change thread in a bobbin just use a different color of thread, Uni-Stretch, or Uni-Floss. Also, many times I use more than one color of thread and/or more than one color of Uni-Floss or Uni-Stretch on a fly and having different bobbins loaded with different threads or single strand floss makes it both easier and quicker to tie them.

If you think my tying table is something, you ought to see the thousands of dollars I have in materials, but that is not germaine to your question.

[ceviche]

Try spreading the "legs" of our bobbin holder out a touch. If there's too much friction pressure there, it won't allow the thread bobbin to free-wheel to the degree that it should. That excessive drag will create excessive tension in the thread, thus lending towards the greater likelihood of thread breakage, as well as eventual grooving of the ceramic liner. The ideal amount of leg pressure will keep the bobbin from falling out and not allow the bobbin to fall under its own weight, while still allowing for an easy pay-out of thread.

If you need extra pressure as you tie, use your middle or ring finger as a drag, with the thread reeling off between the bobbin and your palm. Save your thumb for rotating the bobbin, to reel back in excess thread.

As you tie, twist form in the thread rather quickly. Scott was right in bringing this up. It can easily be a major factor. Take the time to free-spin the bobbin as it hangs, to remove the twists. Most times you will want your tying thread to lie flat. Those twists will often add unnecessary and uneven bulk to your fly. They can also cut material by accident. Flat lying thread also makes for neater thread heads. Take the twists out!

[Jim Fitz]

Cleaning my bobbins??:beathead:

How do I clean my bobbins?

Thanks for the advice on thread twist. At least I had a notion that I wasn't pay close attention to that. I also obvioulsy need to adjust the tension on the thread. I have never taken a class and probably skip over the sections of the tying books I have that don't immediately pertain to tying a fly.

This is good info for me. Thanks.

[FT]

Jim, You can easily clean a bobbin by running an embroidery needle (not a sewing needle) that barely fits into the tube through it to remove the built up wax and such. A small diameter bodkin that fits in the bobbin tube can also be used to clean it. Another thing you can use to both clean the bobbin and for threading your tying thread through it is one those dental floss loop tools used to pull dental floss under bridges (they can be gotten in small packages at drug stores and places like Freddy Myer).

[Ken D]

Hio.....another way to very easily clear a bobbin from frass and wax is: determine what pound test mono with a simple overhand knot in it, fits the knot very snug inside the barrel. Mine takes 15 pound test. Take a small piece, say a foot long, to give a good purchase, tie an overhead knot at one end, insert the free end, and scuff off the crud, on the pullthrough. I wrap the free end around a pen, or some such, to make it easier to pull.

[Les Johnson]

I've used the Rite bobbin for several years. It has an adjustment on the end of the spool for very sensitive thread tension and is comfortable to hold. I believe that my wife and I have a dozen Rite bobbins between us all loaded with different colors and weights of thread. With adjustable tension it makes the old style bobbin where thread tension is effected by twisting the legs practically prehistoric by comparison. The Rite bobbin is a bit pricey but worth it in my view for the ease of use.
Good Tying,
Les Johnson

[Sourdoughs]

questions come to mind that haven't been asked:
1) How do you thread your bobbin? Do you use a tool to pull the thread through which could be causing some damage to to tip?
2) Is it possible that, when tying, you're hitting the tip of the hook? Seems unlikely, but worth asking. I do that occasionally and it'll snap the thread.

I used the $10 ceramic bobbins and have had no trouble. I use mostly Uni thread, as I've noticed some of the cheaper threads will break without "excessive" pressure.

-Marc

[_WW_]

Believe it or not, but in my experience some threads seem to have a shelf life and become unreliable with old age.