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View Full Version : Most common size of Elect Boat Motor Battery




Warren Messer
11-27-2007, 12:11 PM
I'm modifiying my 9ft FlyCaster design to add some air/floatation tanks (with hatches) to the stern area. I want to add a spot in the middle for a battery box, but would like to know what size most EMBer's use. Group 24's or 27's. I will add the photos to my flickr site at www.flickr.com/photos/flycaster.

I will be launching my newest design, the 10ft Nuthatch this weekend. You can see photos of it at www.flickr.com/photos/10ftnuthatch
Let me know what you think. I will be buildiing the 12ft version of it this spring as a fishing only hull (no sails). It will use a long shaft 15hp OB.




Jim Wallace
11-28-2007, 08:50 AM
I have a group 24 that is my larger one. Its a cabela's AGM. My other one is smaller and lighter, and its an Optima (forget the model # right now, but its the smaller of the two blue-tops they make).
I'm looking forward to seeing the pics of the finished 9' Flycaster.

BFK
11-28-2007, 09:39 AM
I would certainly say Group 27 for me. If I'm only fishing locally, smaller would be OK, but for those times when I may stay overnight and fish a couple of days at a whack (more and more likely given the cost of gas), then a 27 makes more sense as I'll be able to fish a small boat like this for two days without recharging.

BFK

Jim Wallace
11-28-2007, 10:12 AM
BFK, I'd go big, also, except for the weight. those larger ones are just a little too heavy if you have to carry them very far (sometimes I portage around jams and "spanners"), and I can distribute the weight better in my squanoe with two lighter batteries.
Otherwise, go for the largest size/capacity you can handle. More is better when it comes to storing juice.

BFK
11-28-2007, 10:28 AM
I hear you, Jim. I've got a couple of nearby lakes that require portaging (not very far, thank heavens) where a light battery would be the ticket, but they are small enough that I row...

Right now, FWIW, I'm in the middle of building a 12' D12, a little dory wannabe that looks like it will finish about 70 pounds. But then I'll probably add another 70 pounds of gear...aren't we supposed to get smarter as we get older?

BFK

Jim Wallace
11-28-2007, 10:32 AM
Warren, I looked at the pics of the FlyCaster. Sweet. My old glass Don Hill mini-drifter has higher sides than your design appears to have, and I would feel safer going thru whitewater in it, but your design is very nicely done...much lighter at 80 lbs...mine's well over 100...never weighed it...probably close to 120 or 130.

Warren Messer
11-29-2007, 04:37 PM
Sorry for the delay in getting back to the forum. Tried yesterday, but WFF must have been having problems.

I will probably go with a group 27. Do most people keep their batteries in plastic container boxes, or out in the open???? I will probably go get a plastic container for a group 27, and size the opening around it. Hopefully it is a standard size.

Made some cardboard mockups of the two air tanks today, to get an idea of how much space they would take up. Still debating as to whether or not to build some kind of lid to act as a seat. Does anyone ever take along a second fisherman in their SpringCreek sized prams? Like kids or dogs?

Will post some new photos of what I'm doing at the FlyCaster's flickr.com site.

JIm: I wouldn't have any qualms about taking the FlyCaster down the Yak. I've done the Wenatchee so many times in my WW kayak, that I think I could find a path for the FlyCaster.

BFK
11-29-2007, 06:49 PM
Warren-- I would plan on the battery box; that way you'll please everybody, right? Now can you make your Flycaster two feet longer and increase its beam six inches? Just kidding...standard joke on the bateau.com forum...no matter what the design is, someone wants to lengthen, broaden, shorten or make it deeper, etc. as soon as it's announced.

I would take two people in a 10-footer, but not an 8...I've done it (the 8) on a lake but probably wouldn't do it again. I do know a guy who fishes with his wife in a 10-foot drift pram on OP rivers, but he's quite a bit smaller than I am.

BFK

GregA
11-29-2007, 08:35 PM
I'm afraid I have no knowledge of the proper size battery Warren, but I wanted to compliment you on your fine looking boats! Nice job!

Jim Wallace
11-30-2007, 10:04 AM
Warren, you might want to check the weight on those group 27's as they are a little heavier than the 24's.

Concerning boat size, I used to fish out of a 7' dinghy when I was in my early teens, and would sometimes take a pal out with me. One evening my buddy Loren snagged me in the very top of my scalp when trying to execute a double handed distance cast with his baitcaster rigged with a surface plug that had treble hooks on it.:eek: He reflexively set the hook a second time.:mad:We were bass fishing, and it was hot action, right at dusk. Loren carefully twisted the split ring around the hook eye and we kept fishing with the treble still stuck in the top of my head.
As soon as I was able to resume fishing,I accidentally snagged a 15 lb carp in the dorsal fin and had 20 minutes of heavy action that made me forget all about the hook in my scalp. Later, at the emergency room, the doctor thought it was so funny he didn't even charge me for the hook removal and tetanus shot!

Anyway, you might want to wear a helmet in small craft when fishing with wild casters.

Warren Messer
11-30-2007, 11:30 AM
BFK: I have a 10ft version. check out this link. http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/messer/hudson_springs/index.htm

Jim: I think you are correct about the group 27 being too heavy. I was lifting one this morning at a nearby Shucks Auto and it was a bit on the heavy side. Maybe a group 27 for the bigger 10ft HSP pram, but not the 9ft FlyCaster. Will go without the seat option, fit a case for a group 24 battery, and just add the two corner tanks; each with a 4", 1/4 turn hatch.

Warren Messer
12-05-2007, 10:56 AM
I just added some photos to my flickr.com account of the changes I'm making to the prototype FlyCaster hull. I will add more photos as I progress. The link is www.flickr.com/photos/flycaster

I have added a 4" hatch to each air tank. There is almost 2 cubic feet of volume in the two additions, so that gives the hull another hundred or so pounds of extra flotation, and in the stern area. Should help if and when you need to climb in over the stern. That's why I added the steps/handles on the transom. The Coast Guard advises every builder to add them for safety.

Would anyone like to demo the boat at Lake Wilderness some Saturday?

BFK
12-06-2007, 10:34 AM
Warren-- Thanks for keeping us posted. I'm tempted to build the Flycaster because of its clean, simple interior. However, I need to finish the D12 first, fish out of it before my son returns and claims it and build a duckboat. After that I'll be looking for my own pram/rowboat to build.

I'm really intrigued by the lough style of fishing, and I'll be looking at those boats as well. I'm not sure a pram would be the best choice, though. The D12 should let me know.

Thanks again.

Warren Messer
12-06-2007, 11:51 AM
I did the interior that way from a request from the person who commissioned me to draw up the plans for the 10ft HSP. I'm adding the extra storage/air tanks after looking at the photos of my friend Bob standing up in the boat on launch day. There was plenty of room in the stern corners to add them, and they would add extra regidity(sp) to the hull. People also asked me if the hull would carry an elect OB and if the battery would be too heavy. If I was going to always carry a battery, I would move the seat pyramid forward another 2" before glassing to the hull. That should counter the extra weight of the battery.

I will be at Lake Wilderness by the swimming piers, this afternoon starting at 1:00 to launch my newest hull, the 10ft Nuthatch Pram. Will probably be there for an hour of so at this temp. I will update the photos at my flickr.com account tonight or tomorrow.

BFK
12-06-2007, 12:55 PM
Wish I lived close enough to join our launch party...but it would be a long hike.

So you're thinking that the battery should be placed in the stern, is that right? I know it would be cleaner that way,assuming the battery is covered. Wouldn't it be better balance-wise to have the battery under the middle seat? Of course, then the builder would have to play hide-the-cable...

Warren Messer
12-06-2007, 05:06 PM
You are correct about having to hide the cable. The seat would have to be raised up a lot to get the battery under it. Probaby 6-8" more than it is now. That would make a nice sitting height, but you would be banging your shins with the oars as you rowed. Also make it seem more tippy, and harder on the back getting it under the seat and hooked up. Much easier to just drop it in the stern and tie it down. By moving the seat forward a few inches to shift the hulls center of gravity for the added weight for the battery, everything is balanced again. The hull has lots of volume up front to carry the shifted weight.

Launched the 10ft Nuthatch Pram today, and I'm a happy designer. Love this boat. I've added todays launch photos to it's flickr.com site.
www.flickr.com/photos/10ftnuthatch check them out.

BFK
12-07-2007, 07:03 AM
Really nicely done, Warren. Beautiful boat; I especially like the sheer line. Too bad you had to hang all that sailing stuff on it :)...

Warren Messer
12-07-2007, 11:31 AM
BFK: There is an outboard motor option in the plans for a different seat arrangement. The bow seat stays the same, but the center seat doesn't have the projection for the daggerboard sticking out behind the wide part of the center seat complex. The aft seat is moved to about 12" ahead of the transom to get the weight off the stern and move the helmsman ahead of the OB. The OB's tiller should then be even with your hip or slightly behind.

My friend Bob (WFF member) loved the boat. Though his dog would love it too. Probably talked himself into building the 10ft HSP.

The sail gives me something to do when the fish stop biting. ;)