Cortland 555 Clear - Salmon?

I looked at Cortlands 555 in 6 w floating (clear) Rocket Taper and hesitated on buying this for use in saltwater targeting mainly Coho and SRC. I would be casting with 9' Fenwick Iron Feather rod and may do 75% of my fishing off the boat. Before considering this purchase was wondering what some of this forums readers think of that particular fly line?? Does it make sense as my first "saltwater fishing" line?
Thanks!! Zane :CONFUSED
I would think that a floating line is good for SRC and for Salmon if they are at the surface but my experience has been long sink tips are needed when the Salmon are in fast water or deep water. I like a 25 or 30 foot sink tip and weighted flys if I have to get the fly down fast or deep. I have been fishing the same hole side by side with my buddies and because I had a faster sink line, I was knocking the heck out of the run when the guys with slower sink and the same fly were not getting anything. For my 6 wt (GLX) I actually use Cortland salmon steelhead 8 wt line with a 15 ft fast sink. I also have the 555 full float that I also use on my 6 wt and it performs well if I am tossing surface flys. My favorite sink tip line though is the Jim Teeny series in the 300 or 350. I use T-300 on my 8 wt. and T-350 on 10 wt. If you really need to go deep the 400 and higher numbers really sink fast but they are too much is you don't cut back the length of the sink tip. Some guys use the T-400 and just keep cutting down the line to make it manageable.
Gbhstrat, you talk about cutting t-400 line, I use that line for rockpiles and legdes,ect, and my conclusion is its a great sinking line but overloads the rod dangerously and to much for my 8 wt. But have managed it for 2 years consistantly. did your buddies gain casting distance but lose a couple ips in the process where they said overall its better this way? how much did they cut off about 10 ft or so?

to the one about what lines to use, clear intermiadiate for casting to spooky or shallow fish and a sink tip for the rest. or just get shooting head system and match it to your conditions for that particlular day. thats the best bet. Ben

make sure you get a cold water running line
In th esalt you won't get much use out of a floating line. You'll want one along, just in case, but 95% of your fish are going to come under the surface, most well under. SRCs will often come from shallow water close to shore, and an intermediate will be appropriate, and the clear ones sure don't hurt (I like the wulf triangle taper, clear-intermediate that I have on my 6-weight; don't know anything about the Cortland, sorry). In the south Sound, you can sometimes find coho in shallow enough water to reach them with an intermediate, but in central Puget Sound, Agate Pass, Admiralty Inlet, etc, especially from a boat, you will NEED a fast sinking line to catch coho consistently. I use a full length, 300-grain shooting head on my 8-weight. From the beaches, again an intermediate will be appropriate (I use the wulf with the 6-weight and on my 8-weight a clear-tipped intermediate head I made myself), but from really steep beaches and in fast rips, you may need a full sinking line.

Listen to Rockfish; he's one of our resident saltwater experts, if not yet quite the purist we're trying to convert him into (just kidding, RF :WINK ). An interchangeable head system is best, and in the long run cheapest (you'll eventually buy a full range of lines anyway).
The guys I fish with all use Teeny lines. One of them contacted Jim Teeny asking how to make the T-400 work better. Jim's response was to keep cutting off a foot or two until it matches the rod. Jim said that you can cut the line down to 15 feet and it will still work well. It is very small diameter line for its weight so it fits nicely in my Lamson 3.5 reel with a reasonable amount of backing. That way I don't need to buy a larger reel just to cast heaver line. I have a set-up with Cortland 425 grain Salmon Steelhead line with 25 feet shooting head on a SA system II reel. It's so heavy that when I am fishing my arm falls off after a few hours. I see that you are a Salt water fan. So far I am a river only guy but I am interested in the Salt, I just don't have a boat or the knowledge to feel comfortable to attempt it.

By the way, we ran into Jim Teeny on the Kanektok river this year. One of the guys T-300 lines was starting to break up at the transition point between the shooting head and the running line. When we mentioned it to him, he stripped a brand new T-350 line out of his reel and gave it away. I borrowed the T-350 and fished the balance if the trip with a 10 wt. XP and my Lamson 3.5. That combination is really awesome to cast. The line sank fast and I hooked into 4 Kings with it. Everyone who tried the set-up was really impressed. It cast and feels like an 8 wt, but performs like a 10 wt. The Lamson Litespeed Reel and XP combination in a 10 wt. with the T350 line is a good combination for those wanting more casting distance than an 8 wt, but not the heavy and bulky feel of a 10 wt. I own a XP 8 wt and I borrowed the 10 wt. XP. I wish I had cast the 10 wt before I bought the 8 wt. I now need to spend the $$ and get the 10 wt XP because it was such a pleasure to cast with that combination.


AKA Beadhead
Last year I fished mostly a 8wt sink tip line from area beaches with less than stellar results on silvers and almost zero SRC's. Frankly I usually did better after switching to my spinning rig while giving my arm a rest :SAD
This year I have been fishing mostly clousers with a 7wt floating line on my 6wt rod and have had a blast with the SRC's on almost every outing. These are beautiful fish and fun to catch and release. They usually strike when I least expect it, often just a few feet from shore, so not much need to wade out at all. FYI- I have not been finding them in the tide rips etc., instead they've been in calm water during periods of moving water. They are more fun on a 6wt than some of the silvers are on an 8wt :WINK I'm Looking foward to hooking a few silvers with this combo as well.
I've never tried the clear floating line I bet it would be good, but hard to see in really low light conditions.

hey gb,

Yesterday, i bought the 555 clear floating line with the intention of putting a loop on it so that i can add on intermediate and sinking heads to it.
I almost bought the 555 Little Tunney instead but the smallest size they make is an 8wt. and i only fish 6wt. I thought #8 would be too much line for the rod. I know the GLX is fast and can handle a heavier line but that's quite a jump. Do you cut down the tip with this line also?
Many fast rods are applauded for their casting qualities but some are criticised for their action when a fish is on. Do you like the action of the GLX when playing fish?
(Careful, gb, i really really want a 6 wt. GLX but my bank account has raised a few unreasonable objections).


I discovered how 8 wt line performed on my 6 wt by taking all my fly line setups and experimenting on my back lawn one day. I went through a bunch of rods and lines (4, 5, 6, 8, 10 and 12) and played around by going up and down in weights on each rod just to see what happens. The biggest surprise was when I took my Courtland 15 foot shooting head sink tip and put it on my 6 wt. GLX expecting it to overload the rod. To my amazement it felt manageable, casted smooth and shot like a rocket. My Teeny T-300 with a 25 foot shooting head was way to heavy. The T300 works great on both an 8 wt and 10 wt XP buy dies on a 12 wt. I don't think the GLX 6 wt is that much more powerful than other 6 wt rods. It is faster than most but I don't think that is the only factor. I think any good 6 wt with some backbone world be capable of the same. IMHO, any of the new graphite rods should be experimented with for achieving good combinations. My next purchase will be Teeny TS-250 for my 6 wt. It is a saltwater specialty line but it works well in rivers as well. It sinks at 6 IPS and has a 30 foot shooting head. Once you have a good shooting head on a rod that loads just right, it is so wonderful to cast, just one false cast with the line not quite out to the transition section, use a good double haul and Bussssssssssssssssssss, one long cast!