Spinning barbells

Curtis

New Member
#1
I am having problems, while tying clousers, with my barbells spinning, or turning. I have tried larger and smaller barbells, tying in some sort of a post underneath the barbells, wrapping the crap out of them, tying them in, gluing them and letting it dry, than finishing tying the fly, still spin. Is there a solution that I haven't tried? Or is this something I am going to have to live with?
 

Old Man

Just an Old Man
#2
Try laying down a thread base before you put on your eyes. It works for me. And then lots of figure eight wraps.

Jim
 
#3
Start with thread wrap base on the hook and two balls of thread that will be in front of and behind the eyes.
Then add the barbell eyes using 3 figure 8 wraps. add glue to those three wraps.

Then add 3 figure 8 wraps.
Then add 2 wraps in front off the eyes around the hook.
Then add 3 figure 8 wraps.
Then 2 wraps behind the eyes around the hook.
Then 3 figure 8 wraps.

Repeat last 4 steps 3-4 times depending on the size of the fly. End the tying on of the eyes with another coating of glue. Works for both bead chain and barbell eyes.
 

Steve Rohrbach

Puget Sound Fly Fisher
#5
Bob Clouser has just released a DVD with Lefty Kreh called 50 years behind the vise. Bob ties a Clouser Minnow on the DVD. He builds a thread base and places the eyes behind the tie in point and slides them up to the thread base. He starts with about 10 wraps across the eyes one way and the eyes end up off center (the far side forward and the near side back). He then ties about 10 ties the other direction and this thread pulls the eyes straight. He then used figure 8's and then ties in front and behind the eyes. He indicates that some people use Zap A Gap at this point but that he has never had to glue his eyes after tying with this method. I hope this helps.

Good luck, Steve :thumb:
 
#6
iagree

The thread base is important, as are the repeated figure 8's. I also like to get the eyes tied in, and get them somewhat secure, and then make horizontal wraps beneath the eyes, and above the hook. (Make sense?) This acts to put tension between the eyes and hooks, and works pretty well. Use a fly enough, and the eyes will always spin. Even on my lager flies where I use epoxy, the eyes will spin eventually.

Jeff
 

ibn

Moderator
#7
3/0 thread so you can reef on it, good thread base, figgure 8's, then sinch down the figgure 8's with a post like maneuver, then zap-a-gap. That works for me.
 

Anil

Active Member
#9
You might also consider using a nickel plated dumbbell eyes rather than lead. Nickel plated brass eyes such as: "eye balz", "real eyes", "dazyl eyes" etc... are a good alternative to lead. Lead eyes that are banged on the rocks will often bend slightly and cause the thread wraps to loosen and the eyes to spin. If they are hit hard enough they will even break completely.
Lead is a little bit cheaper and heavier but I think the added durability and cleaner appearance of brass is worth it. Just a thought…
Anil
www.pugetsoundflyco.com
 

Zen Piscator

Supporting wild steelhead, gravel to gravel.
#11
kodiaksalmon said:
I also like to get the eyes tied in, and get them somewhat secure, and then make horizontal wraps beneath the eyes, and above the hook. (Make sense?) This acts to put tension between the eyes and hooks, and works pretty well.
Jeff
iagree this helps gather the wraps and tighten them up, its an important step. If you dont want something to spin around the hook, putting a base of something gripppy such as thread or head cement is a good idea.

peace,
andy