These lines are perfect for chopping down into a skagit line. Whack of about 30-32 feet in front of the hinge, make a loop, and add a 15-foot sink tip. Now you have a really nice sinking-tip setup for a 7 or 8 wt. Not bad for $14. If you want to get fancy you can make a "cheater" of of 5' of the running line, and make a winductter-style line out of the front, it's a little complicated to discuss here but do-able. Only drawback - the amount of running line behind the head is small. You'll have to add more running line. But what do you want for $15? Just make sure you know where the hinge point is, the color change on the line isn't it, it's where the end of the back taper gets the thickest.
The lines will also work "as is" if you just want a simple long-belly spey line.
I think these are close to old style grand speys. They are a pretty good line. I have the 9wt and it is 1050 grain with a head of 105'. I just ordered the 12 wt. No matter how you cut it, that is a lot of grains for $14.
What Bigtj said. I've bought a couple of the Orvis closeouts, and they're great bargains for chopping and line splicing, or just chop, loop, and add the tip of your choice. Just got a WF12F the other day to experiment with for my Forecast 6/7. It must be fun since I keep doing it.
Oh yeah. I used a 12 wt and chopped enough off to make a 9 wt short head, which probably falls in the "Skagit" head territory. I don't remember how many feet long it is. It's on the Tioga, and I haven't used it but twice last winter. I'm mainly fishing 7s and 8s. For the money, you get enough use out of it doing something to easily justify buying the line.
I've got a bunch of Orvis Spey lines, only because they've been on sale the past couple years, and they are good lines. Especially for chopping.
depends on yr preferred load. I've cut up heavy Orvis spey lines and they've run 16-18 gr/ft. I tend to fish skagit lines heavy on 7/8 rods, build them using 20 gr/ft line to get into a range like the RIO 550. The Orvis are 2-4 gr/ft lighter than what I like, seems like a minor difference, but over 30' that's 60-120 gr less. The running line on these Orvis speys is pretty thick and not so slick.
I would go with the 12, but like SSpey said your mileage may vary. I've made 30' skagit lines with the 10, 11, and 12 and I definitely preferred the 12 for the 9140. Another thing to do is cut it long and slowly work your way back, say 35' from the hinge and cut a foot or two at a time using temporary loops (peel off core and make loop with two nail knots of 12-lb maxima UG to hold the core agains the line). I think at 30 feet I ended up at around 575 grains but that's from memory I can't be sure. Should cast decent with a 100-150 grain tip or even heavier.
The running line is the achilles heel like SSpey said, you'll want to splice or loop into something behind the existing line, or replace it all together. However, not a big deal and worth it.
Plan on having plenty of line left to mess around with after you cut out the skagit.
I have one of these Type III in WF10F. I agree that it's a near relative of the GrandSpey and XLT. The belly/forward taper is close to 100 feet long, which is so much weight that I couldn't cast the full belly, even with my CND 15 1/2' Salmo Salar! A long belly line for experts only.
But it's prime material for chopping and splicing. It's important to first have an idea of what weight, in grains, of floating belly you need for your rod (plus a notion of what weight of sink tips you'll be using). Weighing such a long floating belly from the back end is tricky, but doable. You can use a reloading scale, as I do, or a scale for medecines, etc. Lay out the belly (probably including the rear taper to the running line), coil some of it, from the rear end, and weigh that section. (I hang the coil from the powder pan of my reloading scale, which is positioned at the edge of a table. My reloading scale, like many others, weighs only to 500 grains; but you can weigh lesser amounts, and add the totals.) When you have the desired weight of floating belly, that's where to cut. Naturally, save the remaining tip for future use.