Bamboo beveller

#1
I just finished up building a beveller for bamboo rod building. This should save a lot of plane work. So far I have a half a blank built, now for the tip section.
Mike
Redmond
 
#3
Nice work! Does that do the taper or just a rough 60 degree cut? Wish I had the time/space/money/skill to follow suite.

Eric
 
#4
This will take the "split strips" to a 60 degree bevel to what ever dimention I want. However this will not put a taper on the strips. That is done on the planing form where you plane and scrape down to the desired taper. This will just save a ton of plane work getting the strips within about .035 of the final taper. I should be able to get the strips for a two piece two tip rod at 60 degrees in about a hour instead of six hours. My shoulder already feels better.:thumb:
Mike
 
#5
Excellent, looks fairly simple but effective. Did you use someones design or your own. I would love to avoid all that hand bevelling. I feel carpal tunnel coming on.
Does it maintain a equilateral triangle pretty well? And what type of cutter did you use in the router? When I win the lottery I will buy a bellinger or a Morgan hand mill, until then I plan on building my own, I would really appreciate more info on yours.
 
#6
Northlake27 said:
Excellent, looks fairly simple but effective. Did you use someones design or your own. I would love to avoid all that hand bevelling. I feel carpal tunnel coming on.
Does it maintain a equilateral triangle pretty well? And what type of cutter did you use in the router? When I win the lottery I will buy a bellinger or a Morgan hand mill, until then I plan on building my own, I would really appreciate more info on yours.
This is based on the Medved Beveller design, just a bit more simple to make and operate. The tray that is just below the router blade cutter hole is v groved at 60 degrees. You just start the strips from the right side and once they are extended on the left side you pull the strip through. Alternate the edge and set the tray a bit closer and do it again until you are close to your strip dimentions. I have a "straight" cutter on the router as the tray keeps the strip at a 60 degree angle to the cutter. It really does a nice job keeping the angles correct. I have hand planed a handle section of a rod from split strips and it took quite a while to get the strips down to size. This should get me within .035 of the largest dimention of my strip thus saving my shoulder and hand "plane claw cramp". I still have to complete the taper in the planing forms but it is much easier now, I'm thinking this will really help with the tip section comming up. It only cost about $10 not counting the router, cutter bit and plywood scraps.
Mike
Redmond
 

Mike Monsos

AKA flyman219
#8
Hi Bruce, I just noticed your post. I just got my tip section glued and sanded. Funny you ask as just this morning I'm trying to choose what hardware to put on my rod. I'm looking at Bellinger ferrules and handle, snake guides Chestnut brown silk with gold or black trim wraps. Any recommendations? Right now I'm debating if I should go ahead and order the hardware to complete the rod or just move on to the A culm and build another blank. The blank I have made up looks like it should work out pretty nice for a first try so I'm thniking I should finish the whole process of my rod making. I just got a Digital fractional caliper so I should be able to get my tapers dialed in a bit better on the next blank. I'll give you a call soon.
Mike
 
#9
Gents,
I saw my friend's bamboo spey rod. Instead of ferules, it has to be lashed or taped. Aren't ferules strong enough on a bamboo rod to handle all the stress/torque that spey casting generates? Thanks.
 
#11
My understanding of this is that the builder just wants to remove the stiffness of the ferrules. There is something to this I'm suer. I remember one French rod where the builder used this design. He suggested to wrap the joint with electrical tape for your fishing session......electrical tape. Now let me see if I got this straight. I buy (or build) a rod worth a grand at least, then I tape it together with a 49 cent roll of electrical tape. Think I will stick with ferrules.
martin

Gents,
I saw my friend's bamboo spey rod. Instead of ferules, it has to be lashed or taped. Aren't ferules strong enough on a bamboo rod to handle all the stress/torque that spey casting generates? Thanks.
 
#12
Hi, nice beveller. I've been toying around with the idea of doing something like this. Dont really want to go with a Morgan hand mill though, as I enjoy the planing process, but the first few steps are just necessary work to me.
Question: do you have to rough in the first angle with the hand plane? I would think you would have to, to get it to fit in the 60 degree groove. Maybe not?
martin

I just finished up building a beveller for bamboo rod building. This should save a lot of plane work. So far I have a half a blank built, now for the tip section.
Mike
Redmond
 
#13
Short answer no, After splitting the cane, the strips are almost square shaped. The first few passes through the beveller are all on the same side of the strip. The groove in the tray is deep enough to support the split strip and the cutter has a relief in the tray to allow it to almost bottom out in the groove if necessary. The tray is adjusted closer to the cutter on each pass. I will keep making passes on the same side until it has a 60 degree angle almost out to the enamel. The strip will now rest in the 60-degree tray making contact on two sides if I rotate the strip and have the enamel side on the opposite side of the 60-degree groove. I then make a few passes on the other side until it’s about the same. From there on I will make about two passes per side alternating sides every two passes and adjusting the tray a bit higher on each pass. Using this machine will leave me with strips with close to a 60-degree angle on all sides with no taper to speak of. The final hand planing in the forms will true up the angles and bring the strips to the final taper I'm aiming for.
 
#15
I haven't made another rod with this beveller yet. I've been thinking about my next rod build but I have not gotten started yet. I would think that it should last many rods. The router bit is not that expensive it becomes less than sharp. The router motors are long lasting but a little noisy when running and planing strips.
Mike