3wt line on 2wt rod?

Discussion in 'Fly Fishing Forum' started by ukntcme, Dec 17, 2006.

  1. I recently bought a 2wt rod. I have a reel with 3wt line on it. I lawn casted it and it casts fine with the 3wt line, it also seems to roll cast the line good as well. Now I have not tried it with a fly so I am not sure how that will work. Anybody else use a rig like this? The rod is a 8' 2wt Elkhorn if that matters. What I am trying to do is have a light weight rod for more fun catching trout but still be able to throw size 14 flies.

    Wally
     
  2. ukntcme-

    I use the same setup on all my rods. Seems to go through the guides alot nicer and is able to roll cast later flies when I'm up against the banks and trees. My rods are all 9's but the same concept.

    santo
     
  3. Alot of guys "overline" their rods. They cast the next line size up from the rod itself. It helps the rod load a bit easier. You said it casts fine, right? Well there ya go.
     
  4. you know up untill the last few years most rods were double sized. 3-4, 5-6, 9-10 etc. most can handle some variation and many are a little better light lined or over lined. just depends on the rod and how you're using it, as well as your personal casting stroke.
     
  5. The rod may cast best with a 3-wt WF line, or a 2-wt DT line. Rods are rated relative to DT (Double taper) lines. WF lines are more popular these days.
     
  6. For more on line weights, there was a post on this forum just a few weeks ago with some very informative explanations about line weights and rods: http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com/board/showthread.php?t=36125&highlight=line weight

    IMO, yeah, over-line it if it works for you. Line ratings on rods are pretty much arbitrary. In general, that rod should now cast more easiley at short range, but your max range will be reduced 5 or 10 feet. Then again, why would you even try to cast a 2-weight rod more than 50'?

    I have fiddled with line weights and tapers a lot lately. For example, I have a 6-foot 1-weight fiberglass rod that is slow action like all glass rods. I used DT-1 line on it this summer after buying it, and had trouble throwing even a #16 dry. The line just wasn't heavy enough to pull the fly through the air. So now I have a DT-3 line and it's great up to 30', which is all I need it to do.
     
  7. According to the "Common Cents" system, that rod in 4 pc configuration has an ERN (effective rod number) of 1.77...meaning that according to their equation, the rod is technically best suited for a 1.77 wt line, theoretically. If you check out the data at the website below, you will see that many of the rocket launcher extra stiff he-man rods (cough...sage...cough) have ERNs at least one rod weight higher than their listed rating. I'm no expert, but I would take that to mean that you would be substantially overloading the rod with a 3 wt line, particularly a wf line, and especially on longer casts. But I suspect that you won't be making many casts over 20 - 30 feet with a 2 wt...so that is probably a moot point?

    If ya'll haven't checked it out, the Common Cents system is a way of judging rod action based on how many pennies it takes to deflect the rod tip to a certain angle...there are also other equations for figuring out the other stuff. It is used a lot by custom rod builders. The info and explanation is available at http://www.common-cents.info/ .

    Jake
     
  8. Hi there,

    As Alister said and I agree, fly rods are rated for DT lines and the first 30 feet of aerialised line eg 2 weight rod = 2 weight DT line. If you want to use WF line then 1 line up 2 weight rod = 3 WF line (manufactures recommendations).

    Cheers :beer2:
     
  9. I hate to disagree, but AFTMA standard is for the first 30 feet of line regardless of taper. Having a double taper line will affect load after the first 30 feet or so, but won't for the first 30. Additionally, there are a number of tapers in a WF configuration who's heads are longer than 30 feet (Wulff Triangle, the SA Salmon Steelhead taper).... With that said, it does seem like a reasonable rule of thumb, as the extra mass at longer distances really does equate to more grain load at the tip.....

    Funny side note... I'm actually casting the double taper *further* than a normal weight forward. It's all a part of the practicing that Anil has me doing (carry more line in the air!)...

    All in all for rods in general, use what matches your fishing conditions. If you are casting 10-30 feet with a 2WT, and the rods doesn't complain, then use it :) There are people out there that take it to the extreme, but in general a line weight up won't hurt things at all, and may make the fishing/casting easier.

    Now with that said, if you were to do the same with say a 8 wt rod and you were fishing at ranges of 70-90 feet and wanted to use a 10wt line, then I'm of the opinion you are asking for trouble. The rods that I've seen that weren't broken by doors were often broken by someone overlining a rod in order to get more "distance". If that is what you are trying to do, the either move to a shooting head, or learn to double haul/cast more efficiently.
     
  10. I know a lot of people that over line. They do this to slow the rod down so to speak. I use a superfine 2wt WF on my LL and it is a perfect combo for me. I then received a Shelbyyille 3wt. Stumper cause I don't use 3wts. I go with the evens 2,4,6,8 with a couple of 5's (Far-n-Fine for one) I tried the 2wt and the 4wt superfine WF lines on the Shelbyville and it loved both. Different feel, but I could still pick up 60 ft with ease. I broke down and bought Superfine 3wt for the S.
    I go with line to match the rod, but, I can see where overlining and even underlining can come into play.
    It comes down to, how do you want the rod to function. Too slow of action, underline, too fast of action, overline.
    Or in my case, buy the rod and reel to your expectations.:)
     
  11. Now like my buddy Backyard always says, "Over-lining is for people that don't know how to cast " or something like that. I don't remember exactly.

    He is a damn fine caster though, even if he does have a bit of a thirst...
    Powerful thirst to be honest with ya.

    Happy Hollidays,
    LeakyTiki :cool:
     
  12. I have been fooling around with this a lot......

    If you do this on most rods, you will notice that each rod will handle at least two, if not more lines. Also you will notice that the rod will load the best with different weights for different distances. Overlining tends to make the rod load better at short distances but you will not have enough spine for longer casts. Likewise, underlining allows the rod to "hum" at longer distance casts.

    Experiment with this a lot and you'll be wondering why you need that closet full of rods........
     
  13. Something has to match all the lines you got and rods make the perfect accessory! :)
     

  14. Makes perfect sense to me, as you can only throw so much line and WF lines collapse once the loop is longer than the head. They don't roll cast or mend so good neither (not that I can do either of those, but that's what they tell me).

    In fact if you want to cast long, a long-bellied line makes more sense to me because otherwise you have to strip all that running line in before you can cast again.
     
  15. So just to amend that stuff you mentioned :) Apparently if you're a *STUD*, you can accelerate the head enough so that it doesn't collapse the loop on the foward cast. There are limits to it though, but take a look at some of the competition casters. They drift soooooo far back, that they have the time and length to accelerate the running line, head, etc. Then top it all of with a haul at the right time, and it's a thing of beauty :)

    I believe the distance you can throw a weight forward line is determined by the "overhang" a caster can control....
     
  16. I'm not talking competition, I'm just talking from personal experience. I can throw some line into the backcast past the head length and then throw it all forward, but I couldn't carry that in a false cast. If you say you can false cast running line, I believe it, but I can't, not that I've really studied it. So, whenever I try to huck huge WF casts, it's always a problem of not standing on the pile of line I have out there. It's just easier for me to have all the line in the air. All I was doing was saying I'm not surprised at your experience, it ||'s mine.
     
  17. Of course for really long casts and the average DT line you get the same problem. There are few single hander lines over 60' of length although some of the steelhead tapers I think go around 80' and Karron has one at 120'! That line is a beauty to cast. I saw Worldangler cast that to the backing on my rod, and another guy go 20' into the backing on his rod up at the spey clave last year. Even I probably got over 90' out of that.

    Oh, damn, I think I hijacked the thread. Sorry.
     

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