Make your own 'Welded' Loops

Have you tried this...?

The other day I was in a hurry to rig up a 10 ft. sinking tip to the belly of a weight forward floater. So, I grabbed a couple of braided mono terminal loops (the 'Chinese finger cuff' type) that I had laying around and slipped one on each each end of the connection. Then I applied a then coat of Goop Marine glue over the braiding (just up to the loops). I used just enough glue to make the braiding smooth once the glue dried.

So off to the river I go, and to my amazement the rig worked like a charm. No henging,
no stiff spot, no clicking thru the guides when landing fish.

The only downside I can think of, is that eventually the mono will deteriorate the connections will need to be replaced.


Active Member
I would never rely on the Chinese finger cuff effect (even with a coat of Goop) over the long run. A couple of monofilament nail knots tied over the braided monofilament core where it overlaps the line gives you a joint that is extremely secure. I've had the fly line break before this type of looped connection failed. I've used this style of connecting loop for many years and have never had the monofilament loop deteriorate the the point that it needed replacement

Jeremy Floyd

fly fishing my way through life
Those connectors stress the line at the back end of the connector generally too which can advance the timeline of line failure. They tend to make the line hinge and worries through the outer line coating.
I've had very good luck with my home made braided loops. I just followed the directions on Dan Blantons board. To improve the finger trap grip I make the braided section 8" long. A little tougher to stuff the fly line that far but really secures the grip. 2 nail knots on the end away from the loop covered with Pliobond or UV Knotsense (just the knots none on the braid) complete the deal. I've been looping this way for years and have never had a failure.

Jim Wallace

Smells like low tide.
Agree with above, but I also lightly and carefully saturate (just saturate this spot, as coating it adds too much Knot Sense) the small area where the end forming the loop is braided back into the main section of braid, being careful not to glue the loop to the end of the flyline. I have had the loops fail by coming unbraided at this point before. The end of the braided mono loop just pulled right out! A little bit of Knot Sense locks up this braid so it won't fail.
Don't get any on the loop itself, either, or it will make it stiff to where it doesn't slim down as much when pulled tight against another loop, and then hangs up on the guides.
I have mono loops and mono line to line connections that have lasted 10 years. The loop on my favorite tip lasted about 6 years, I replaced it after it started hinging. Back in the day I used them to test custom tapers before splicing.
I used to use whipped end loops coated with aquaseal or similar (goop, softex) as described by Lefty Kreh but I have had several fail. I seen a couple of references including Trey Combs Blue Water Fly Fishing that describe using braided loops and coating with flexible urithane glue. I have done this on about 4 of my shooting heads and have been very happy so far. I thread the end of the line into the braided loop all the way, pull it tight and then put a small drop of super glue at the junction of the fly line and end of the braided loop. I then whip the end of the braided loopwhile keeping tension on it and then coat with thinned softex a couple of times. The braided loop junction has even flex and due to the coating it feels and behaves like the fly line. I have found that you must be careful about not using too much super glue at the junction and to keep tension on the loop to maitain the chinese figer trap effect. Also I found that it made my 6 wt high floater line sink a bit probably due to the density of the urithane glue. I stopped by All about the Fly a couple of weeks ago and got to see some folks demonstrate the shink wrap heat gun method of welding loops. This seems like the best way to go to maintain the strength and physical characteristics of the line. I am going to try this method out next. I am curious if one can weld sink tips like T14s with the heat gun method?

The Welding Revolution Has Started
I have been welding loop for while and it a very easy process for you to do.
The rules are simple watch the heat.
If you like here is link to some of my notes on the subject.
If you have any questions just post them.


Active Member
Very informative Aaron, have you had any of these break while fighting a fish? Or tested in bluewater? Im sure you're probably not fishing in the salt much with a double hander.

How strong is the fly line material against the other? My concern would be it cracking, stressing or breaking without a mono core of sorts as backup. The loops look great and similar to AirFlo lines.

The Welding Revolution Has Started
I have been welding loop for while and it a very easy process for you to do.
The rules are simple watch the heat.
If you like here is link to some of my notes on the subject.
If you have any questions just post them.


still an authority on nothing
since I started welding loops, I will NEVER go back to braided connectors or other improvised methods.
A properly welded loop tests about as strong as the fly line itself. If you get cracks or anything like that, weld a new loop. I've already repaired two Powerspeys this way.
At 90$ a crack for first quality lines, that's a biggie.

Bluewater, towing barges, etc. I wouldn't know about. But works fine for steelhead/salmon