Tape for Spey ferrules


Active Member
This may have been covered before but could not find anything on search regarding subject. For those who spey and use tape on the ferrules what is the best tape to use.
Duct, electrical, ?????
I have never taped a rod yet.
I wax the ferrels with white candle wax.
I have yet to cast one apart.
Just watch what you are doing and make sure you guides stay in alignment and you will be fine.

Happy New Year


Creating memories one cast at a time
Elictrical. Lowes carries the colored electrical tape so you can get one that is at least 'ballpark' to your blank color. I tape a a 3" or so piece over the ferrule running parallel to the blank as a splice, then I spiral over the ferrule and splice piece to lock it all in.
To tape or not? Since spey casts involve a change of direction and lines that are much heavier than their single-hand AFTMA rating equivalents, the torque on the rods is considerable. Scott-type ferrules are said to be more resistant to loosening, but even so... Taping is easy. I use a spiral wrap covering about 1.5 inches on either side of the joint. When not in use, park the tape on the rod blank; you can reuse it at least a half-dozen times.


Ignored Member
No tape, no wax and I have never had a rod come apart. I have had them loosen. I am partcicular about my guides lining up. As soon as the guides start to look out of whack I check things.
I have always wondered. If it is essential to tape or wax, why isn't there a warning label that comes with a new rod. Something like, "Warranty will be voided if you don't use tape or wax!"
Matt Burke

Bob Triggs

Stop Killing Wild Steelhead!
Out here on the Peninsula, in Port Townsend, there is a company called "Coyote Found Candles". They make a wide range of candles and one of the things they have is a small wax disc, about the size of a silver dollar and about 3/8" thick. It is made of beeswax. It is hard and sticky, but not too dry for ferrules.

It is very handy to use; I make sure the ferrules are clean and dry, then rub the "male" ferrule with the wax disc until it's evenly coated. Then I rub the wax into the surface with my dry finger, rubbing hard enough to create some friction heat to liquify the wax momentarily beneath my finger.

When using wax to add grip to ferrules you have to be careful not to build up too much wax as it can get very hard in cold weather and you might split apart the receiving ferrule with the added diameter caused by the wax.

I have never had a ferrule come apart with this system.


I have had ferrules loosen and once lost a tip on a cast. It didn't go far and was easy to pull in with the line but it scared me. On most rods I will tape, some I get away with just ferrule wax. Since better to be safe than sorry, I usually tape everything.

Sage 8150-4 - wax
Sage 10150-4 - tape
Sage 9140-4 - wax
T&T 1509 - tape
T&T 1307 - tape
Scott 1510-4 - wax
CND Salar Specialist - tape

It does not seem to matter the type of ferrule, some rods loosen and some don't. One thing I have noticed that impacts it is the line and cast. Short bellied lines don't seem to loosen as much as long bellied lines. Also, if I am double, snap-t'ing or single speying, I rarely have a section loosen. If I am throwing a spiral roll (something I do the majority of the time anymore), it really seems to twist them loose.

As for the original question, 3M electrical is the best I have ever found. Supple in alkl bu the coldest weather and leaves no residue.