CHIRONOMID THREAD -

#61
I basically use ribbing to bullet proof the flies from tiny teeth, plus an easy extra weight. Can't imagine a Zebra Midge without it's rib...LOL
I have a bottle of Hard Head that was given to me at a fly tying show, I guess I need to try it. But, some epoxy turn yellow, do you know if this does?

Pond, I do use weight wire in the thorax area. I build them like Davie McPhail. I also have Biot in every color imaginable for the gills.
Blue, I've never had it turn yellow on me, not sure what it's chemical makeup is but I don't believe it's any type of epoxy. It is more expensive than
Sally's and I think Sally's formula changed a few years back and doesn't seem quite as good to me, IMO. Just thought I'd through it in the mix.
 
P

pond monkey

Guest
#65
You're right I'm sure Chewdog but for less than $3 a bottle just I get a new one bottle every year.... I'd rather not be guessing proportions ect .

PM
 

Ed Call

Well-Known Member
#67
I've dipped a bodkin into the remover, then stirred up the resin. I've not noticed it clouding up, but I also tend to just buy new when I need it. My girls have a variety of colors too. I've mixed some of their colors with clear to make a colored but transparent version.
 
#68
I'm finding that I'm having trouble finding a good selection of chironomids available for purchase. .
If you want to buy some killer chironomids get a hold of Randy Diefert. I think he is on the board as "longears" but not sure. He is a local Island guy that teaches and ties "liquid lace" style bugs. He has been featured at many big time fly tying shows and sells through his website. Do a google search for Randy's tying supplies. Tell him what lakes you want to fish (Lone, Pass, BC lakes, etc.) he'll get you set up with some great bugs.
"I don't always fish Chironomids, but when I do.....I always fish Randy's"
 
#69
Wow thanks for the tip islander. I just got done browsing his site. He does tie some amazing bugs. Ill be getting in touch with him in the very near future.
 
P

pond monkey

Guest
#70
I have a theory.... it's about addiction. If you start using a scent on your fly and you have a good day, there is the natural tendency to credit at least some of that success to the use of scent... you do it again the next time out and the next.... before you know it you think that you must use it all the time for success....
I think that the same kind of dynamic is at play with how we choose and rate our fly patterns, or our own system... we think that we must use this pattern or that to have success.
To me buzzer style (no bead) flies clearly look the best.... and for sure they work well.... and beaded flies, not so much .... some old school guys don't like 'em at all....... but the thing is, they undeniably work well and white beads ( the white representing gills) work really well and ya don't need to tie on gill filaments.
I have had more than one conversation with that Herman guy (the creator of the "larva lace" system) ....... with all due respect, he would make a great heroin dealer 'cause he wants everyone to become addicted to his fly system..... and he wants you to loose faith in your own. I don't buy it, maybe it's just the stubborness that kept me from joining a cult back in the hippie days............
My point would be remain open to different patterns and I still think that success out on the water is determined about 80% by presentation and 20% by pattern (assuming that your pattern is in the general ballpark.)
Sorry for rambling PM
 
#71
I have a theory.... it's about addiction. If you start using a scent on your fly and you have a good day, there is the natural tendency to credit at least some of that success to the use of scent... you do it again the next time out and the next.... before you know it you think that you must use it all the time for success....
I think that the same kind of dynamic is at play with how we choose and rate our fly patterns, or our own system... we think that we must use this pattern or that to have success.
To me buzzer style (no bead) flies clearly look the best.... and for sure they work well.... and beaded flies, not so much .... some old school guys don't like 'em at all....... but the thing is, they undeniably work well and white beads ( the white representing gills) work really well and ya don't need to tie on gill filaments.
I have had more than one conversation with that Herman guy (the creator of the "larva lace" system) ....... with all due respect, he would make a great heroin dealer 'cause he wants everyone to become addicted to his fly system..... and he wants you to loose faith in your own. I don't buy it, maybe it's just the stubborness that kept me from joining a cult back in the hippie days............
I guess my point would be to remain open to different patterns but I still think that success out on the water is determined about 80% to presentation and 20% to pattern (assuming that your pattern is in the general ballpark.)
Sorry for rambling PM
Agreed. Have confidence in whatever you are fishing and put it in front of the fish. But stick to the 10 minute rule, too . . .move or change some part of your presentation if you're not hooked up every 10 minutes.
 

Blue

Active Member
#72
Like I said, I am love Chironomid fishing and I too play around looking for the ULTIMATE. I really like the effect of the Tubing.
Last year I cam apon a different idea. Realizing color at times can be a big KEY, I started playing with colors. I was also wrapping a rod at the time and learned if you do not coat silk with a color set it goes translucent.
So I came up with my TRANSFORMER flies.
I wrap the fly with Danville Blue because Danville doesn't change colors when wet:


I then did a single layer of YELLOW silk on top

The results is a very popular Olive


Understand, you cannot coat this fly with any coating though.

White on Red, nice blood midge, or Yellow on Red a killer Orange....