Best non-tacky resin??

Shelf life is years if kept sealed and stored at room temperature.

Other users can comment on viscosity, but I describe it as like Sally Hansen's.
I currently use two types of UV resin when tying flies. UV activated wader resin and clear goo. I like using them both in small amounts on my shell backs and when tying SRC pattern for the sound. But I always find that both even after curing are a little tacky... Does anyone have any suggestions on a resin that cures HARD with out being tacky? I am only asking cause I would like to tie some nymphs with a shelled back and soft hackle legs without them getting stuck to the resin..
There is a newer UV resin from the UK called Deer Creek Diamond UV resins. They have pictures posted with CCG's resins after being set by a UV flashlight,and their's after being set by their UV stylus or flashlight, They then laid CDC feathers on both cured resins and both the CCG resins were easily tacky enough for the CDC feathers to stick to them while the CDC feathers would not adhere to the Deer Creek Diamond resin. Caster's Online flyshop out of North Carolina sells the Deer Creek resins and have more info at: I'm just another fly-tyer looking for some truly tack-free UV resins to use on my trout flies. Give it a look, but it looks like CCG is about to see some very serious competition.

Good luck,
For some reason, I cannot get onto WFF from my home internet connection. If anyone needs to contact me, do not pm me but email me at picaboo(at)


Active Member
CCG Hydro locks in my thread bump egg patterns, after I've formed them with the CCG Brushable... they are tack free with a fresh bottle and batteries in my light....I then put them on foam, place on my car dash, and drive around with them in the sun. But after about 5-6 months the Hydro acts like the Brushable; at which time, I just apply a thin coat of Sally Hansen's Hard As Nails

Teenage Entomologist

Gotta love the pteronarcys.
I use devcon 5 minute epoxy. It's the plain apply the two epoxies and mix them. I tie Mercers Beaded Biot Golden Stone, and if you don't cool the epoxy in the fridge for around 8 minutes, it's runny, and runnyness is a problem since the legs on the fly are soft hackle. Cool the epoxy, mix them, and apply. Hope this helps
I have a possible cure for those tacky resins.

I was PMd a question about my resin on another BB. I compared my resin to CCG thin packaged in the black syringe. My resin is thinner.

While comparing the consistency of the resins, a thought occurred to me and I decided to do an experiment.

Although I don't know what is exactly in the CCG Thin resin, I suspected that both were similar free radical acrylic polymers and would be compatible chemically. I also suspected that the free radical oxygen inhibitor chemical that is my resin would allow the CCG Thin to cure completely without tack.

So I mixed about 60% my resin with 40% CCG thin, and put a UV light to the mixture. It cured completely. The surface has a softer feel but it stays shiny and is not tacky when rubbed. I find that interesting and it shows that the two resins are chemically compatible and that the oxygen inhibitor in my resin is also compatible with the CCG resin.

So those of you that have other resins that cure with tack and have bought my resin, you might want to try to mix my resin with the other resin and see if the additive in my resin will allow the mixture to completely cure without any tack.


Triploid, Humpy & Seaplane Hater
I used Silvercreek's product a lot on my beach flies last summer. Regardless of how careful you are while casting you are going to ding your flies on the beach during your backcast.
It held up much better and was more durable then the epoxy I've used in the past.
I used Silvercreek's product a lot on my beach flies last summer. Regardless of how careful you are while casting you are going to ding your flies on the beach during your backcast.

It held up much better and was more durable then the epoxy I've used in the past.
This is why my resin is so strong.

Oxygen competes with the resin polymer for the free radical bond. If oxygen is at the bonding site, it blocks the polymerization process. The oxygen to free radical bond is not a strong covalent bond so it is not permanent. While the oxygen occupies the bonding site, polymerization cannot occur and the polymers that are formed are shorter chained. What is needed is are chemicals than removes oxygen allowing the bond to form WITHOUT resorting to sunlight or AC bulbs. Then you get long chained and a stronger polymer.

Tacky cure resins do not have chemicals that prevent oxygen from binding with the free radicals.

The reason that CCG tells you to put their resin out in the sun is that sunlight contains the entire spectrum of UVA and UVB radiation. When the weak oxygen to free radical bond breaks, the polymerization can continue BUT the polymer chains are shorter and the polymer is weaker.

As long as the resin does not have chemicals to PREVENT oxygen from bonding with the free radical polymers during the polymerization process, you will end up with a weaker polymer coating.


"INCREASED POLYMER CHAIN LENGTH: oxygen consumption is made prior to polymerization removing unwanted free radical centers that may quench the reaction"

Photochemical Method to Eliminate Oxygen Inhibition of Free Radical Polymerizations