anchor and rope for raft

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by Wayne Kohan, Jan 11, 2009.

  1. Wayne Kohan

    Wayne Kohan fish-ician

    I have purchased a used 13 1/2 foot raft that now has an NRS fishing frame on it. It has an anchor system, and I think I would like to get an anchor. I've read posts on the pros and cons of chain anchors vs lead pyramid anchors. I plan on using the raft on the lower Yakima, possibly the Yak canyon, the Grande Ronde, the John Day, maybe the Deschutes. Most of the time I will be disembarking the ship to fish, thus rendering the anchor some what moot, though I don't want my boat to float away as I fish. So my questions are:

    1.What weight of anchor? I was thinking of 30 -35# pyramid lead anchor. Then I saw a 6# spike anchor on the NRS web site, but I'm thinking that is for anchoring on shore.

    2. How much line? 100 feet enough or overkill? I realize that if I use the pulley system on the anchor I will have to double that amount.

    3. Nylon, braided or twisted, or polypro? I don't like the feel of polypro and it does not seem to lay in a neat pile.

    Thanks, as always, for your advice.

    Wayne
     
  2. Bullwhacker

    Bullwhacker Member

    1/2" Non stretch rope is what I use. Get a locking carabiner and tie it on with a good knot. Use a little heat to seat the know as well. Lots of anchors are lost due to failed knots and loose carabiners or extend-a-links. I've tried several anchors on my 14' Sotar. The 30 lb soft pyramid is fair, but it will not hold you in fishable water usually. I use a 35 lb drift boat anchor when on larger rivers where I will be fishing holes and runs from the boat. If I was only buying one I would get the drift boat anchor. I prefer the horizontal one because it swings less.
     
  3. Preston

    Preston Active Member

    I have a 12 1/2-foot Achilles and find a 35-pound lead pyramid to work just fine on most rivers. The exception is the Yakima, particularly the lower stretches like the canyon. Much of the bottom there is composed of large, angular blocks of basalt and it's easy to wedge a pyramid anchor irretrievably into the crevices and cracks between them. For that reason I have a chain anchor of about 40-pounds; such a chain anchor seems to be less likely to hang up and even when it does, it's usually possible to work it loose. My chain anchor consists of the largest eye bolt I could find with loops of chain slipped onto the shank and a large washer and self-locking nut to hold it in place. I used to go to great lengths to backsplice a galvanized thimble into the end of the rope and then attach the anchor with a lock link. But lately I've started just tying the rope to the anchor with a bowline.

    Fifty feet of anchor rope is probably all you'll ever need and I prefer braided rope, it's much easier on the hands and avoid popypropylene, go with nylon or polyester. Always tie a large figure-eight stopper knot at the end of the rope; if you should inadvertently drop the anchor in fast water it's amazing how quickly the rope's end comes up.
     
  4. Guy Gregory

    Guy Gregory Active Member

    I've a 25 lb. spike anchor, always holds in water I want to hold in.

    I use 5/8 polyester braid, cheapo rope from home depot..it comes in 50 foot lenghts for less than 20 bucks. Why? It's easy on the hands, large enough to grip well, it is grabbed by jam cleats well, and floats. I knot it to a carabiner, and hook the carabiner to the anchor. That way I can remove the anchor without taking off all the rope.

    And with all due respect to Preston's otherwise good advice, never, never, never knot the running end. It will jam in the pulleys, the current can suck you down and trash your boat and drown you. If you must knot, keep a very sharp knife at the ready to cut the anchor loose. You will not have time to look for it, it must be right at hand at all times.

    Rather, let the anchor rope run, pull over to shore, walk upstream, wade out and retrieve your floating anchor rope. Then walk above your anchor, and retrieve your anchor by pulling upstream. It will almost always clear, and that way you're not leaving 35 lbs of lead in the river.

    Resume fishing with non--toxic split shot.
     
  5. Wayne Kohan

    Wayne Kohan fish-ician

    Thanks for the replies. Another question, if I were to make a chain anchor, how long do you make the loops of chain? Are we talking about a foot long or less, or do you want something longer than that? And any cheap places to get anchors? It seems like one is stuck shopping around town because of the cost of shipping. Joe's wants $100 for a 35# pyramid, it is cheaper at Sportman's. I haven't tried any marinas yet. Not any rafting or boating stores in the tricities.

    Wayne
     
  6. Ed Call

    Ed Call Mumbling Moderator Staff Member

    Sportco in Fife? I saw some anchors there and they were not expensive. There were some pricey ones on one isle at the back of the store (closer to the fly and gear fishing counter end of the store) but across from the cataract mini mag composite oars there were numerous other more economical options. I realize Fife is not in the desert, but you could call them to see if their price options are better than what you've found.
     
  7. BDD

    BDD Active Member

    For me, chain anchor works well for the Yakima and Methow. Lots of guides use them too so it must be hip. :clown: Unless I'm stronger than I feel, it is no where near 35 pounds though. And it has kept me anchored in some pretty heavy water.

    Things brings up a question that I'll pose hear since I left a great response. :rofl:

    Has anyone found a way to keep the twists out of the anchor rope when pulling and retrieving them all day? I get so many twists by the end of the day that it gets difficult to release it; I need to stop and try to remove some of the twists. Going back to the old commerical fishing days, there was another term for this but since this is a family site, I refrain from using that term.
     
  8. Preston

    Preston Active Member

    You must be floating much faster water than I ever have. I've never had a problem, and can't imagine having one, with current so strong as to pull the bow of the raft down, let alone under. Even in the fastest water a raft tends to plane when anchored. The only time I've ever taken water over the bow was while trying to release a wedged anchor on the Yakima and then only when we had pulled the raft upstream until the anchor rope was almost vertical and the angle of pull was nearly straight up-and-down.

    Are you using a laid rope? I've never had a braided rope twist in use.

    I made loops of chain about a foot long. I started out with a set of tire chains that I found at a second-hand store and a length of chain that I had lying around. Then, during the winter, a friend of mine found and gave me a broken set of truck tire chains. I cut them up and, by adding or removing various pieces, have a thirty to forty pound anchor. Forty pounds is still not enough to hold a 12 1/2 foot raft in some of the faster Yakima runs but is about all that I choose to try to hoist.
     
  9. Josh

    Josh dead in the water

    There was a "30% off one item" coupon for Joes in last weekend's Sunday paper. That might help out with the price tag.
     
  10. rg05

    rg05 New Member

  11. Wayne Kohan

    Wayne Kohan fish-ician

  12. Jerry Daschofsky

    Jerry Daschofsky Moderator Staff Member

    I still go with lead anchors. Dense wait that hits and burries fast. The only problem with an anchor with any spikes (even not so sharp ones) is they will bounce against the back of the boat. Possibly causing a weak spot.

    Just buy the boat line. It's a soft line (which you don't want too tough, your hands will thank me). Want to say it's 3/8" (i know it by feel, think it may be 1/2"). It's the one that's usually white and blue rope. It's all I've ever used on my boats.

    Just check it out on the river Wayne. I must've missed this thread, I would've told you to borrow a buddies anchor and take the boat for a run. See how it holds. I know my old cat took a 40# to make it stop. I could get by with a 30#, but took ALOT of skipping and extending a ton more anchor line out to make it stick.

    You shouldn't need anymore then 100', even with a pulley system.