Anchor?

Discussion in 'Fly Fishing Forum' started by buckwheat, Aug 14, 2002.

  1. I need to know, does anyone else who uses a float tube in some of our windy lakes use an anchor? Ive been having trouble keeping in one place, which can be rather frustrating, having to keep kicking back to where i wanna be, so any advice about an anchor system or whatever would be great.
     
  2. In our country it's often essential to have an anchor system while deep line "chironomiding". I fish from either an Otter or SuperCat, use an anchor of up to 10 lbs., depending on conditions. On a float tube you can get by with one of the smaller anchors, or something like a V-8 can filled with lead. Sure helps to hold your position and stay in the fish zone.
     
  3. I use an anchor on my Kayak when fishing lakes. I made my own using an old brass 3lbs weight off an old time scale. A down rigger lead weight or old car brake drum also works fine and is cheaper them buying one. Of course the old coffee can filled with cement will also work. If using a float tube make sure there are no sharp edges just to be on the safe side. I also maked my anchor rope every 2 Ft so I can get the depth of the area I am fishing. :pROFESSOR
     
  4. A good option for a float tube is a mesh bag that you fill with rocks, sand, or whatever when you get to the water. I have one made commercially by Creek Company, but it would be pretty easy to make one yourself.
     
  5. I used a small 5 pound dumbell with my float tube.
     
  6. thanks, you know how much i appreciate help (and free stuff) :WINK
     
  7. I really like the 1.5 lb. float tube anchor bought from Cabela's. It's small, folds to easily fit in a float fube pocket and holds great.
    Don
     
  8. Tin cans filled with lead, coffee cans filled with cement all sound really heavy to me for a tube. You could probably anchor just fine with a three or four pound downrigger weight. I use six pound dumbells 1 solo, 2 with a parter, for my 16' canoe, and it holds quite well. The second weight stops the swinging of the canoe on the anchor.

    One thing to remember is that for an anchor to hold well, appropriate scope needs to be in the anchor line, scope is the angle off vertical that an anchor is at. The more vertical, the heavier the weight, the more scope the easier it is to hold bottom with a lighter weight.

    Be careful with heavy anchors. I was out last weekend in a borrowed canoe, with an 'anchor' that must have weighed 25#. I ripped skin my little finger on my left hand, and almost took off my big toe when I dropped it in, and when I wanted to retrieve it, I could not lift it off the bottom. Luckily I used polypro rope, so the poly floated making its own marker. Heavy for a tube could be as little as 10 pounds.
     
  9. I agree with the mesh bag concept. Can change weight as needed, and don't have to foot the load into lake. I use a sack that held garlic at one time, just the right size. Use decoy line with knots every two feet to judge depth. Have a double brass clip to attatch to line and tube, and finally, use an old SA System II reel to hold the line. Sounds wierd, but all works very efficiently and without any tangles. Price was also right, like nill since I hated the drag on the old reel anyway!

    Ronbow
     
  10. I have seen many people have given you some good advice. I have one more idea for you. A drift anchor. It will not keep you in one spot all day long but it will slow your progress. The basic concept is simple. You tie a rope to a bucket and toss it in. I think a fabric bucket works best. You can purchase these at may stores. Best of luck
    :THUMBSUP
     

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