Another leech pattern for lakes

Discussion in 'Stillwater' started by troutpocket, Feb 15, 2012.

  1. troutpocket

    troutpocket Active Member

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    I've been focusing on fly profile the past few seasons as I tune up for spring fishing. Within my leech collection, two that I fish a lot are buggers (large profile, segmented), and these, which offer a large profile without segmentation. It's a variant on Barr's Bouface.

    View attachment 48401 View attachment 48402 View attachment 48403

    For whatever reason, this pattern gets a lot of attention at times when buggers do not.
     
  2. Marc Stelting

    Marc Stelting Member

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    troutpocket- I like it, not that it matters, but I'd bet that it will be a magnet. Looks like a flash-dubbed body? What,a 4-6x long hook?
     
  3. troutpocket

    troutpocket Active Member

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    The original calls for no underbody and flashabou tied in at the head to run along the sides. I added an ice dub (or any generic leech dub) underbody and omitted the extra flash. These are on #8 TMC 200R and #10 3XL 2XH nymph hooks.

    And yes, this one is proven!
     
  4. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    Those are fantastic. Care to break them down. Looks like Matuka style?????
     
  5. McNasty

    McNasty Canyon Lurker

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    wow thats a good one, im gonna have to try this on some lakes here soon
     
  6. troutpocket

    troutpocket Active Member

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    Thanks, Blue!

    Here's the recipe:
    Hook: 8-10 3XL nymph or TMC 200R
    Bead: 1/8” brass, color to suit
    Tail and body: bunny (size 8) or squirrel strip (size 10) tied in Matuka-style
    Underbody: ice dub or other dubbing, color to match or contrast body
    Overwing: marabou, color to match or contrast body.

    Slide bead onto hook. Tie in thread behind the bead and put down thread base over the hook and stop over the hook barb. Measure bunny strip to reach just behind the bead and divide fur fibers to give yourself a tie down point directly over the barb of the hook. Tie in bunny strip and trim tail to length (tips of fur should extend about 1 shank length beyond hook bend . . .don't leave enough leather to foul the hook point). Fold back body section of bunny to expose the shank. Dub in underbody material in dubbing loop. Fold body section of bunny over the dubbed underbody and tie down just behind the bead. Trim end of leather if necessary to leave a slight gap between the leather and bead. Select a clump of marabou and tie down immediately behind the bead as overwing with tips not extending beyond hook bend. Pinch-dub a bit of bunny fur or underbody dubbing material and cover thread wraps behind the bead. Whip finish.
     
  7. Drifter

    Drifter Active Member

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    Love the slight touch of red in the black one. nice touch! your dubbings are epic ;-)
     
  8. Irafly

    Irafly Active Member

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    I just recently learned a trick to keep bunny or other such tail material from fowling the hook. Just beyond and up to the hook bend on the bunny leather put a little super glue or other type of clear hardener. The bunny won't bend down and it gives the tail a little more flutter.

    This does not work as well for my bunny leeches that I tie right behind the bead.

    Great pattern by the way.
     
  9. tkww

    tkww Member

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    Sexy and you know it.

    I have heard of people tying in a slight loop of mono off the tail to keep the bunny suspended out over the bend.
     
  10. troutpocket

    troutpocket Active Member

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    Thanks, Mark. Less is more in the dubbing world. It's much harder to "under-do" dubbing than over-do it.
     
  11. skyrise

    skyrise Active Member

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    very nice. i need to try using black fly's again.
    some of your ideas might work for a Perch fly i want to try. some lakes have perch in them and brown trout.
    my guess is the bigger browns would be eating the smaller Perch.
     
  12. scottflycst

    scottflycst Active Member

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    Very nice TP, great color combinations. I find at times combinations work when solid colors are weak for whatever reason.

    As for why leeches work when buggers don't so much, some of those answers we'll probably never know. However, leeches move the water much differently than buggers do. These differences are strike triggers, when and why they work is the fun part. Trying to learn the answers is what keeps us coming back...to the vice and the water!
     
  13. Drifter

    Drifter Active Member

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  14. Jim Wallace

    Jim Wallace Smells like low tide

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    I haven't seen any leeches tied like troutpocket's (truth is I don't get out all that much beyond my local waters). They look pretty fat and juicy.
    Mark, I like those sparse patterns you tied. Those are more like what I visualize when I think of tying a leech. I usually just tie up bugger styles, though. I am going to have to tie some "real" leeches. Is that body material "mohair?"
    Thanks, guys, for all the good info!
     
  15. troutpocket

    troutpocket Active Member

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    Jim, the ones I tied do slim down in the water.

    View attachment 48463

    Even so, they are a fat, juicy representation compared to most of the "wild" leeches I've seen in the lakes that I fish. But hey, I like to eat my domesticated turkey rather than those skinny, tough birds people bring home during hunting season :p
     
  16. Drifter

    Drifter Active Member

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    Yes mohair! Dubbed then brushed out and back. about 3 to 5 turns of light lead also allows me to use these with floating lines, when there is a chop you can cast a long leader with dry line and let the leech slowly sink and suspend in the water - the waves make the dry line "snake" and the waves moving the line "jig's" the fly or gives it slow movement without having to work it yourself, when snake in the line straightens set the hook - you do not have to feel the take fishing this way. Just another slow presentation for when the fish are in 5 ft. deep or less water.
     
  17. Irafly

    Irafly Active Member

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    Mark, that second bug with a metal bead in black under an indicator would be deadly.

    Ira..
     
  18. Nick Clayton

    Nick Clayton Active Member

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    I was thinking the same thing. Nice bug. Ill definitely be tying some similar
     
  19. Drifter

    Drifter Active Member

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    I guess what I am trying to write is how I used to fish, or hover flies before indicators. think 70's and 80's and even 90's when no one knew what an indicator was, I would still come up with ways to hover a fly over weed beds or weed edges. like my soft hackle thread suggest greasing the leader to a obtain a certain depth for a very lightly weighted fly. I still use these technique's sometimes though indicators are so much easier - just not half as fun to cast. sure wish I would of taken a salmon corky with me in the old days to the lake with a piece of tooth pick to set it on the leader LOL. but these "light weighted fly- greased dry line" methods still shine in a lot of shallower water situations!
     
  20. troutpocket

    troutpocket Active Member

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    I'm right there with you, Mark but with fewer years dedicated to the cause. I came to stillwater fishing about 10-12 years ago through the Denny Rickards school of thought . . .and I've been slowly learning how to incorporate indicators and a "vertical presentation". It helps to fish with guys like Ira that have serious bobber mojo. But there are times when a "hover"-style presentation on a floating or very slow intermediate is much more effective!
     

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