Another Switch rod handle question

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by slugthug, Sep 23, 2009.

  1. I recently made up a 7wt Rainshadow switch rod with the pre-fabbed cork/composite grip from Baston with great results. I am planning my next switch rod build (Z axis) and am looking to shed some weight on all of my components including my grip.

    Does anyone on here have any experience in modifying an all cork pre-fabbed spey grip for a switch application? Should I consider laminating a custom grip out of rings and shape it myself?
  2. A few months ago I was considering just this thing for a switch rod project that I later abandoned. I was planing to razor cut a pre-fabed spey handle a few inches short and then use a dremel to carefully hollow out the bottom for the reel seat insert. I don't see any reason why this wouldn't work and it would be less money and hassle than going with the individual ring option, which I've also done.
  3. I am currently building the z axix 5 wt 11 foot using a regular spey fore grip as I did not like the kit grips commonly available for this kit. I cut the bottom of the grip down to 10 inches and used my dremmel to hollow out for the reel seat to slide into. I used the standard prefab butt but cut it to 4 inches - looks really good with the green struble uplocking seat. Note that you will probably want to turn the cork down to a more narrow grip on both the fore and but grip as spey grips are thicker than what matches the stuble seat and the thin z axis rod. Best way is to use a chucked wood working lathe or a metal lathe and sand paper strips. I have seen folks chuck rod in drill and spin them that way as well or can use a standard sewing machine motor and drive belt attatched to a chuck like what some use for wrod wrapping - do internet search for something like sewing machine motor for rod wrapper.

    Be aware that due to the thin tube on the z axis, normal spey grip are a bit too large diameter on the drill out the blank goes through and you will have to build up the diameter of blank to for snug grip tot he blank. Lots of ways to do that but tape is often used or can use thread to build it up in several spots along the area under the foregrip. Good luck.
  4. Another option I used was to take a standard full Wells grip and extended it.


    I also shortened it down to 10", though my next one I may go to 10.5"-11".

  5. I am building the 5 weight switch from Batson right now, and got the whole package including the Batson switch grips. I did not care for the bulge in the middle of the fore grip and so I ground it down. I use a threaded rod in my drill. I built a couple of wooden holders, on for the drill and one with a hole for the rod and I use that as I don't have a lathe. I have built grips from cork rings using that set up.

  6. Wayne,
    Can you post a picture of the drill lathe jig you made?
  7. SHigSpeed,
    Your grip looks great. Good idea.

  8. A drill press also works if you have access to one of those. the free end of the rod must be held by something. A lot of people recess a ballbearing into a piece of wood for that.

    The way i first did it was with a drill and 1/4" threaded rod. I used wing nuts and fender washers to hold the glued cork rings, then, believe it or not, i drilled a hole into a tree outside and got a friend to hold the drill with the rod spinning in that hole in the tree while i filed and sanded. It shapes down pretty quickly Without something like the tree stablizing the free end of the rod, the grip wobbles and flexes too much to get it round.
  9. Here it is, hopefully you can see what I did. It is very basic. I am not a woodworker nor have any skill. I also loaded a photo of the switch handle. It is the Batson but I sanded down the middle hump in it. The handle on the drill in the first picture is a spey handle I shaped from cork rings.

  10. Thanks for sharing, Wayne. Those grips look nice. I like that you took the hump out of the middle of the Batson.

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