anybody used bug-bond?

Discussion in 'Fly Tying' started by tkww, Aug 5, 2011.

  1. http://www.bug-bond.moonfruit.com/

    I'm a little intrigued. Epoxy is definitely a PITA (though obviously it works and isn't too expensive). Tuffleye seemed to be about the same gig, but it's entry seemed a little ridiculous. Not that this stuff is cheap, but I did find a kit (if I went that route) for less that $50, which makes it a little more than half of the Tuffleye (~$90).

    Anyway, I'd likely use something that was this easy. If I'm just tying up a half-dozen copper johns, I really hate going to the work of epoxy. I can certainly envision other applications where I would use it if was as slick and easy as it looks. Just curious if anyone has tried it.
     
  2. Loon hard head dries slow,but it's relatively cheap, and no more difficult to use than head cement. Check the seahabits I have in the galleries. They used only Hard head. And it doesn't yellow. But no, I haven't tried any of the high tech, expensive offerings. I tied saltwater commercially so long, that to me epoxy is kind of like a professional chef cutting onions and garlic. You don't even realize you're doing it. It's just who/what you are.
     
  3. Bug Bond is the 'dogs danglies'. Tye flea, final cut, apply BB to head, zap with torch for 10 seconds. Job is done - Bob's your Uncle and Fanny's your Aunt.

    Apply to shellbacks - zap with UV torch after 10 seconds Twice as Hard as Nails.

    They sell two different types. One is a bit slicker than the other.

    Good stuff

    :thumb:
     
  4. I hear ya. I haven't used it that much. Enough to know I'm fine with it, but certainly not enough to feel even vaguely 2nd-nature about it. Do think that for me personally omitting even something as simply as mixing it up will increase my usage.

    Thanks, Loopy. Do you happen to have a recommended US distributor? :)
     
  5. Then try the hardhead. Comes in a headcement type brush applicator. It's relatively "green" and non-toxic, you can thin it when it starts getting thick. you can apply multiple coats to really build it up. As long as you aren't in a rush to get on the water, it's the best solution I've found in terms of cost vs performance.
     
  6. :rofl::rofl::rofl: Has a nice ring to it!
     
  7. If I were tying a half dozen copper johns I would use UV knot sense. That stuff is like $5 for enough to do about 2000 flies + knots and rigging for a year. It works great. It might not dry as crystal clear as the alternatives but the fish don't notice the difference. I got a UV light that runs on AAA batteries after burning through the cheaper Loon brand one that runs on watch batteries. I take it in the boat with me and am always finding uses for it. Problem solved for less than $30. Guarantee that if you have that stuff sitting on your bench handy you'll start integrating it into all kinds of things.
     
  8. No mixing here but it is the curing time that is the thing along with the finish.

    There is no US distributor at present that I am aware of but the company can be contacted here in the UK.

    An alternative to Bug Bond and a pal of mine over here swears by it is:

    http://www.clearcuregoo.com/

    Both of this stuff it is thought to based around the windscreen repair gloob but a guy over here tried it and it wasn't quite the same.

    Here is an example of the Bond Bug in action which I showed earlier in the year.

    20 second cure two layers

    http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com/board/showthread.php/76085-Another-Shrimp

    Enjoy

    :beer2:
     
  9. I really like Clear Cure Goo.
    I still use Loon Hard Head as well, but it takes over 10 minutes to dry. You also hvae to rotate your vise or put the fly in a rotating fly dryer to keep the Hard HEad from sagging.

    The Clear Cure Goo saves so much time.
     
  10. Bug Bond is far superior to clear cure, tuffleye and the rest of the UV epoxies I've tried. That being said, the stuff does cure best with the same light that Clear cure uses so if you have any CCG already, all you need is a bottle of bug bond to get started. I'd recommend ordering the "pro tips" as well, especially if working with the lite formula. This stuff is well worth the investment.

    I use the "Lite" formula (basically the same consistancy as head cement) on my buzzers, and quill bodied nymphs in unison with Veniards "fine" varnish for a quick, shiny finish. The best part of this stuff is there is literally zero waste, as you can suck the excess back into the bottle when you've finished applying the desired amount.

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
  11. great ties!
     
  12. i switched from CCG Thin to Bug Bond Lite and use the CCG light with no problems

    BB Lite to me is thinner than the CCG Thin

    one must remember these acrylic goos are not "TACK FREE" and should be coated with head cement or Sallys
     
  13. Thanks everyone for the replies!

    I've heard this complaint about CCG, but I'm assuming you are referring to BB as well?
     
  14. Loopy and Andy- Very nice ties. The buzzers and the shrimp look like they mean business.

    I'm thinking I might just try the bug bond because it works with the CC Goo light. I'll have a better idea about which one I like most.
     
  15. BB is not "tack free" and requires an overcoat.

    i'm not sure if the Tuff flye or loon knot sense are "tack free" since i have not used them
     
  16. Here is another example by McPhail if abyone is interested!


     
  17. Bug-Bond is tack-free when you use light coats(2 or 3)
     
  18. really? which one?
     

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