Attaching Trailer Hook

Discussion in 'Fly Tying' started by skyrise, Aug 22, 2013.

  1. skyrise

    skyrise Active Member

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    lost a half my fly today with a trailer hook.
    i tied the trailer using Maxima 10 lb as the connection. using the loop method to attach the trailer.
    so how do you guys connect your trailer hooks ?
     
  2. Stonefish

    Stonefish Triploid, Humpy & Seaplane Hater

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    I always run the open ends of the stinger hook loop through the eye of the front hook. I then fold it back and tie it down on the underside of the front hook. With it tied down both on top and bottom, i've never had one pull out.
    Just a suggestion, use a heavier mono. Something like 20 lb Maxima Ultragreen. It will hold up better and last longer.
    You can also use backing or braids like Power Pro, FireLine etc. Just use something with some stiffness to it so your stinger won't flop around or foul.
    SF
     
  3. Pattick

    Pattick Member

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    I use 30# spider wire for my trailers.

    1: Run the wire/line along the top of the hook shank and fasten down with thread
    2: Run the wire/line through the hook eye
    3: Run the wire/line down the bottom of the hook shank and fasten yet again
    4: Apply head cement

    I haven't had one fail on me yet.
     
  4. skyrise

    skyrise Active Member

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    Stone, thanks. makes sense about running the line back through the eye.
    isn't 20 lb too heavy ? I will try it and see.
    Pat, OK thanks also. will have to check out the spider wire in the store.
     
  5. cmann886

    cmann886 Active Member

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    +1 for the above---I also haven't had any "failures" using that approach.
     
  6. Chris Bellows

    Chris Bellows Your Preferred WFF Poster

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    i use super glue instead of head cement... and if i'm not in a hurry i will even use clear cure thin to secure the wraps fireline on the shank.

    to stiffen up the fireline you can use a bit of softex after attaching the hook (before tying in materials).
     
  7. Pattick

    Pattick Member

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    If you're going to run the trailer line/wire through the hook eye, make sure you find something that wont clog the eye. The spider wire is pretty thin, but sometimes on smaller hooks (#6-8) I end up using some 20# fireline so I can still fit the leader through easily.
     
  8. kelvin

    kelvin Active Member

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    wire there is lots of it now on market
     
  9. tkww

    tkww Member

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    Kelly Galloup recommends 19-strand stainless Beadalon wire. (It's jewelry making wire.) It's 17-lb test. He also uses beads between the front shank and the eye of the trailer.

    http://www.beadalon.com/19strStandard.asp

    1) Tie the beadalon along the shank.
    2) String 1-3 beads onto the wire
    3) String the wire through the trailing eye
    4) String the wire back through the beads
    5) Add superglue to the shank, lay the wire on it, and lash it down

    I've used this, backing, mono (20 lb or higher), spiderwire or fireline or whatever that stuff is, etc. Haven't had issues with any of them, but I wouldn't go as light as 10 lb unless I was new I was only seeing the smallest of fish, but then I doubt I'd be using an articulated fly in that scenario anyway.
     
  10. mtskibum16

    mtskibum16 Active Member

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    I've been working with some different methods recently and thought I'd share my experience. I've been tying trailer style clousers and fishing them on the beach for salmon. Lately I've had both mono and intruder style fly coated wire (can't rememer the brand) fail on me.

    The mono was either 15 or 20 lb Maxima (can't remember). It held up to a number of fish but ended up breaking at loop end where it attaches to the stinger. In fairness this was after a couple weekends with the fly and 4-5 salmon to the beach and about that many LDRs. My problem is that there was no real indication of when that was going to happen and the fly was still in fishable shape.

    So I picked up some intruder wire and tied up another one. One morning of casting and I go to check my hook point and the hook is gone. The wire broke right at the connection again. This was with no fish caught (or even a tug). With beach fishing there's often contact with the beach due to sloppy casts or steap beaches. This is something the trailer loop must be able to withstand. I had no noticable or severe contacts with the beach so not sure what happened.

    So up next I'm going to try Stonefish's method using 100lb Power Pro if I can find it somewhere in bulk.
     
  11. Brady Burmeister

    Brady Burmeister Active Member

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    A loop of 20 lb Fireline. Tight wraps up the shank, fold back line, tight wraps back. I've never bothered going through the eye or gluing anything. Good wraps will hold it.
     
  12. Nick Clayton

    Nick Clayton Active Member

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    I've used 20lb fireline this season. I found 30 lb bulked up the eye too much. I think I would like something a bit more durable, but it seems to work well. I use the same method as Stonefish for attaching... Tie it in on top of the hook shank, wrap the thread up to the eye, then run both tag ends of the fireline back through the eye then tie back down towards the rear of the hook. I then attach my eyeballs, then cover the whole thing with a generous dose of SHHN before moving to the next step.
     
  13. mtskibum16

    mtskibum16 Active Member

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    Do you find the 20 lb fireline loop is stiff enough? Like at least as stiff as 15-20 lb Maxima?

    Also, to be clear, I don't have any problems with the loop pulling out of the tie in, just breaking at the connection with the stinger hook (end of the loop).
     
  14. Brady Burmeister

    Brady Burmeister Active Member

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    It will hold it straight back for me with a size 6 Owner or similar hook.

     
  15. Nick Clayton

    Nick Clayton Active Member

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    Matt, it's obviously not as stiff as other stuff, but for me personally I haven't had any issues. It seems stiff enough to do the trick. I have missed very few fish this year, and lost even fewer once they are hooked. I've had a few hooks break off after hard use, but the stiffness seems fine. I kicked around the idea of using something thicker, since reading up on the topic gives me the impression that that is how its supposed to be done, but I haven't really seen a reason to worry about it.
     
  16. Stonefish

    Stonefish Triploid, Humpy & Seaplane Hater

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    People are probably thinking 100 lb Power Pro, WTF?
    It has nothing to do with the breaking strength, as I'll likely never catch a fish that size in Puget Sound.....;)
    What I like about that lb test of Power Pro is offers just the right amount of stiffness. I've found some loop materials that are too limp which causes your stinger to flop around and foul your fly.
    Lots of options out there for attaching loops and loop material. Find what works for you and stick with it.
    SF
     
  17. mtskibum16

    mtskibum16 Active Member

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    Thanks. I use bigger hooks (size 1 currently) but maybe I'll give it a shot if I can't find some 100lb Power Pro in bulk.
     

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