boat for Puget Sound

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by Kim Hampton, Nov 20, 2006.

  1. EHB86

    EHB86 Member

    I bought a 16' Northriver Revenge last summer, put a 4 stroke, 40 hp tiller Yamaha on it and we love it. Handles the Sound fine, real beamy, with enough of a V to ride well. Will do nearly 40 when it's flat. The boat is real open, with a flat sole, I would highly recommend looking at one, they are not much more than a Lund (which is a great boat), but they are, in my opinion a lot more boat.

    I also have a 23' aluminum boat with twin 4 stroke 115's, but the Revenge is so easy to launch and deal with in general, that it gets all the use. I put downriggers and a sounder on it, works slick for trolling and plenty of room for flyfishing. Easy for one person to launch/haul. My .02. Worth what you paid for it. The Yamaha motors are real hard to beat.
     
  2. jerreca

    jerreca New Member

    I've been using a valco bayrunner '18 on Monterey Bay for years and I love it. I find it a stable platform. Easy to trailer. 40 hp Evinrude = 25 mph. Evinrude very reliable. The boat has higher sides than most aluminum boats and may not be the easiest for climbing in and out if beached. Great in rough water, tho. Just moved to Puget Sound and can't wait to fish it here. Good luck. je
     
  3. East Fork

    East Fork Active Member

    You are going to love your 18' in the San Juans. I've run a bayrunner 20' for the last 3 years in the San Juans. It seems to be the perfect trade off between cost, trailerability and comfort on the water.
     
  4. Greg Armstrong

    Greg Armstrong Active Member

    I have a Boston Whaler 16' Dauntless that is great on the Sound. It has a nice casting platform up at the bow that's perfect for flyfishing. I miss my old 15' bayrunner's ability to beach on the rocks, as well as it's relatively lighter weight for launching, but the Whaler's a LOT safer feeling on bigger water when the wind and waves kick up as they so often do. Every boat I've ever had has been somewhat of a compromise, it's the nature of the beast and you have to get what suits you best. Greg
     
  5. Denny

    Denny Active Member

    Agreed.

    If you are looking at aluminum boats, determine if you want a rivetted or welded hull. There are negatives and positives to each. If you want to look at a welded aluminum boat (typically heavier gauge aluminum bottoms and sides relative to similar model rivetted boats) and want to go new, check out the Crestliner Alaskan 16' boat.

    Given a choice, it would be Alumaweld. Then the Whaler. :)
     
  6. martyg

    martyg Active Member

    Boats have been a problem for me. I never have the one that I want.

    Right now I have, what I feel, is the prettiest boat that I have ever run. It is a composite center console boat, 17.5 feet, and really heavy. Nothing smooths chop out like 2,000 pounds of hull, but launching and taking out can be a problem on sketchy ramps. There have been many times where I wanted to go out, or come back in, but the ramp that I wanted to use was just a shithole of broken concrete at that level. Muscling 3,500 of boat, trailer and motor isn't prudent.

    If I had to do it over again I would get an aluminumboat with an appropriate tiler steer motor. Yamaha would be my first choice. Tom Wolf runs an aluminum boat - he can lauch at pretty much any ramp, it sips gas and he gets around Neah Bay just fine.

    Another viable option would be a RBI. A 16' - 18' RBI is light and incredibly seaworthy. The low freeboard would help keep from getting blown around when you are drifting a shoreline. I once was running S&R off the Jersey coast in a 14' RBI in 20' breaking seas. I had Wave Runners around me and a chopper in the air. It was a warm day and I would have been immediately picked up if I went swimming. In all, the 14' RBI and Wave Runners were better in those conditions then the 21' Impact. I could turn and run fast through the wave troughs, where the Whaler just didn't have that agility.

    Re Whalers.... They are great boats, but there are also plenty of others in that genre that deliver a better value. Whalers hold their value, but if you are buying used it will work against you. Grady, Wahoo and Mako come readily to mind. I worked out of a 21' Impact for two years, and that was a phenominal boat for lots of different waters, but the Impact and the recreational Whalers are worlds a part.
     
  7. Jeremy Floyd

    Jeremy Floyd fly fishing my way through life

    My Brother and I bought a 1997 19' Wooldridge SUV with the offshore motor mount 2 years ago from Ed's Guide Service up in BC. This boat was specifically bought for the sound and playing around Neah Bay.

    They sold it with the trailer and rigging and a 130 horse 2 stroke which we pulled off and replaced with a 115 Yamaha 4 stroke for a few bucks over $16k.. It tops out at 45 and cruises really well at about 32-33.

    They thought something was wrong with the boat because it cavitated so much so we took it down to Wooldridge in Seattle and he told us that the only problem with it was that the motor was mounted way too high and they had put some custom prop on it. We dropped the motor and went back to the factory prop. Ran like a champ. We ended up selling that motor though 2 weeks later back to Ed's and picking up the Yami.
     
  8. Wahoo and Mako are definitely cheaper than their Whaler counterparts, but I don't know if you could say that Grady Whites are any less expensive - I would lean towards the opposite.

    Why would holding value work against you if you are buying used? If you have the cash and are looking for something that will be decent investment (in boat terms of course:beathead: ), you can't beat a whaler. We had a late 80s 17' Montauk for 8 years that we left it in the water all summer, ran hard and put away wet and sold for the same price we bought it for. I can't say anything for the quality of the boats under the new ownership, but I taught sailing out of a different 17' from probably the early 70s that was on its third or fourth engine and still going strong. That hull will be around for another 25 years.
     
  9. gt

    gt Active Member

    if you intend to go with a new or use glass boat, do your homework and find out just how much wood is used in the construction process. several, perhaps all, with the whaler as an exception, still utilize the old style wood stringer/chopper gun construction methods. dry rot waiting to happen to'yah.
     
  10. South Sound

    South Sound Member

    You said you wanted one for Searuns. Why in the hell would people want a 90 hp for searuns. I understand the issue of getting here and there, but damn this seems more like bass boat excessive hp. Get a high sided boat or a whaler. Either way make sure you can run in 2-3 ft or water. The best searun action required you run in shallow. SHALLOW water. I mean shear pin busting water. You can run a smaller kicker motor, but you have to ask how much are you getting yourself into for Searuns. I run a Alumaweld 1969. 1982 Evinrude 6hp. Old school and little worry or maintance. Run up onto the rocks so you can cast from shore.

    Just my .02
     
  11. I have to agree with Josh on this. Especially if you're fishing one or two people, a lightweight, easily handled boat is ideal. Gets you in and out of crummy launches and is easier to handle on a windy beach. Aluminum can take a beating on the rocks and barnacles and be little the worse for wear. I'd go with an aluminum boat about 16 feet long. A slick 4-stroke engine and a fly rod and you're set to go.

    Sterling
     
  12. Kim Hampton

    Kim Hampton Not Politically Correct

    Yep, I agree with Josh and Sterling. So far I've looked at several boats (new). 16' Lund, 16' Duroboat, 150 Montauk Whaler and a Lowe. The Lund and Duroboat would probably handle what I want to do with the Duro being the easiest to handle. The Whaler is a beautiful boat with what I call a really clean deck for fishing. The Lowe looks really nice also but I think getting to be too much to handle weight wise. Not sure about that though. Also I'm fairly interested in the Harborcraft / Jetcraft boats but I haven't found a place to take a look at one yet. I saw some pictures of one of the PSFF outings this fall. I think someone was using a Jetcraft during that outing. I'd be interested in hearing what they have to say.

    It's fairly easy to get all caught up in the facts, size, speed and hype of all the boats out there. Then a person (me) could end up with more boat that he needs or can handle. You know getting it on and off the trailer or getting it off a beach if I wanted to shore fish. This summer I sold my white water raft that I used on the Yakima and other areas. Basically is was too much for me to handle when fishing alone which I do most of the time. I don't want the same thing happening with this boat. That's why at the minute I'm leaning toward the Lund or Duro but still want to take a good look at the Jetcraft or see what pops up on the used market but I'm leaning toward new.
    Anyway thanks for all the info....it's pointed me in several different directions and like I said before that's half the fun.
    Kim
     
  13. martyg

    martyg Active Member

    Kim

    You are on the right track as far as I am concerned.

    One more thing that I will chime in with... Depth in a boat is great for seaworthiness, but it sucks for our fishing in Puget Sound because you get blown around by the wind a lot. Aluminum boats are light, with less hull in the water and more above the surface.

    I try to make super stealthy drifts along likely shorelines. If I have to crank the motor to reposition, because I am drifting too shallow or tow deep, then I just blew my presentation.
     
  14. Denny

    Denny Active Member

    Lund, all day. Lund Alaskan; performance, options, quality, and resale.

    I have a Smokercraft Alaskan, and it's a very good boat, but it's not quite the quality (or was the price!) of the Lund.
     
  15. David Loy

    David Loy Senior Moment

    Another vote for the Lund. Unfortunately, my Dad just sold his. Without my input. Damn!
    I grew up on the Sound and spent a lot of time in assorted Whalers. Love them and the times we had. But they're heavy. And pricey.
    For a SR fish boat, lighter seems best. I wouldn't go out in the nasty weather anyway.
     
  16. Kim,

    Go to Lake Union Sea Ray in Fife and look at the Jetcraft/Harbercraft there. Awsome boats. Hell for strong. PM me if you want more personal review.

    Sterling
     
  17. Salty Fly

    Salty Fly Member

    Triumph. I currently own a 210. It is 21' and runs a 140 Suzuki 4 stroke (excellent economy) with 70 gallon fuel capacity. Indestructible and easy to maintain. It can go to the back waters of PS, Neah Bay or offshore. Take a look at www.triumphboats.com to see durability.
     
  18. gt

    gt Active Member

    that is a nice boat saltydog, just was not long enough for my needs. also seriously considered the 'scout' boats in that same length, another nice choice and also bullet proof. no wood in either boat, BTW. chemically bonded upper and lower hull parts with everything foamed in place, very nice indeed.
     
  19. Kim Hampton

    Kim Hampton Not Politically Correct

    Sterling,

    I took a look at the Jetcraft at Lake Union Sea Ray.....like the looks of um. I've sent a PM.
    Thanks,
    Kim