Can't keep um pinned

Discussion in 'Saltwater' started by Bagman, Aug 19, 2013.

  1. Exactly.
  2. One word...Karma. Ed's got it and you need it. Give him a shout, I'm sure he'll send you some at little or no cost. And, whatever it is you've currently got, please keep it from spreading. :D
    dryflylarry likes this.
  3. Eat a banana or something.:) I've lost three this year; one to a broken leader (10 lb.) It was a big fish. But that's the game. The fish are fiesty and you have to keep constant pressure on them. Sometimes I don't even try to get them on the reel. I just keep side pressure on them and strip when I get them turned toward me; the turn to the other side. It's quick. I don"t give them a chance so I can give them a chance if you get my drift.
  4. did anybody do any good at BP today?
  5. No I don't have the strip set down yet. I do try and keep my rod pointed at the line at all times, but that is hard to do in the strong currants.
  6. Thanks good advice from almost everyone. Sounds like it is not just me. Got to work on the strip set. I always check my hooks right after i pinch off the barb. I pull it over my nail before i put it in the vice. I will also get some Mustad c71 hooks. I've lost most of my fish with a nonstinger type fly. I'm now tying up some flys with a stinger. Ive only lost one Coho with a stringer hook and that was a nick in the stinger line. I use mostly #2 hooks but will us a # 4 on my smaller flys. I'm using the switch rod because I have a bad elbow. With the switch rod over head cast its a roll cast and a back cast pull in on the under hand and let it fly. I have fished the popper and have had a lot of fish follow, and boil but to date only one take. That was my first sea run.
  7. Bagman, keep stripping and keep the slack out, then the takes are often viscous and essentially take care of themselves. A few wise forum members taught me that I cannot strip faster than a coho hell bent on destroying my fly. I agree, you are finding them and that puts you one up. Managing line in the current will come in time. Are you using a stripping basket?
    ten80 and Bagman like this.
  8. Yes Ed I'm using my home made stripping basket. When I started using the switch rod I had to make a few mods to the basket because I was sending out so much line. I was using wine corks in the bottom but they really started grabbing the line. I now have the bottoms of 6 plastic wine glasses hot glued to my corks. No more binding, no more grabbing. I have read over and over on this forum to strip fast. Yet I seem to get most of my takes on a slow strip. I do land a lot of bullheads but that price I'm willing to pay. I will just practice my strip set on bullheads. That should get me in the strip set habit.
  9. Yeah, I still haven't gotten the strip set down myself. Too much in the habit of lifting the rod. I've definitely missed a good handful of fish because of it--so you're not alone.
    Rich Schager likes this.
  10. I've tried a lot of stripping speeds, but always come back to a fast-paced, short-short-long strip that seems to put fish on my line when no fish are to be seen. I definitely agree with Ed that a fast strip will set itself on a fish. I also like to throw a flick into each strip, as if I was flicking water off my hand at the end of the strip.
    Tony Abaloney and Ed Call like this.
  11. try breathing out of your right eye lid like a lava lizard and dont change your drawers until you bring one to hand
    Ed Call likes this.
  12. What kind of hooks are you using, Al?
  13. Steve brings up a good point. Sharp hooks are an absolute must, and hooks with long shanks (i.e. streamer hooks) and small gape (<3/8") should be avoided for salmon in the salt. The hook needs to be sharp enough to penetrate both the hard jaw plates and bones and/or drive deeply into soft tissue (tongue or roof of mouth). I won't run less than a size 2 in the salt as I feel that going smaller means shallower penetration and hook retention. It is also important to use hooks that do not have a perfectly round bend; a kink and offset to before the point help keep the jaw of the fish set in the bend of the hook, even during prolonged fights.

    For patterns too short for a stinger but too long to be tied on a octopus hook, use a longer shanked but still octopus-style hook such as the Gamekatsu Baitholder hooks (no.
    05109 for sz 2) which have an offset point and kink in the bend to prevent the hook from being thrown.

    If money were no object, I'd run only Owner cutting point octopus hooks as they are sharp as knives. Since I go through a lot of flies I go for more affordable Allen and Gamekatsu octopus hooks which are nearly as sharp at a fraction the cost.
    JesseC likes this.
  14. I'm using Mustad 34007 #2s and #4s on my shorter flys and Gamakatsu 02009 Octopus #2s and #4s on my stingers. Yes I check to make sure my hooks are sharp before I tye as well as after each hit, and then every so often as I may hit the rocks behind me once in awhile. This is the fly my getting my most takes with.

    Attached Files:

  15. Bagman,
    Nice looking fly. Just an obsevation based on the picture you posted. It looks like the hook point is pretty well buried in the material.
    That doesn't leave much gap for hooking up. Perhaps more hook shows when it is wet?
    For stinger, leave your loop long enough and you can change out the hook if it gets dinged. You'll get longer life out of your flies.
    Also take a look at the barbless Gamakatsu Octopus hooks. It is a different shape and has a wider gap then the standard barbed Octopus. It is shaped more like a circle hook withour the point being so pronounced. If you buy them in the 25 economy packs they are very reasonable price wise.
  16. When this happens for me it's typically my hook has become dinged or dull. Just had that happen at Sekiu. I was using the same hooks and setup over a few days. On the third day after several lost fish I checked the hooks, and the tips had started to rust and the tips weren't sharp. A little touch-up on the hooks, and bingo, back in the game with no fish lost.

    Could be the switch rod, too. I find it easier to keep 'em on tight with single handed rod. That's me, though.
  17. I just picked up some of the barbless like you are talking about. I have not used any of them, but I did notice the difference. I have attached a pix of the same fly wet. Please let me know if I should make some changes. Other then the longer loop that is. I find that this material gets really chewed up by the fish, and let me tell you the Bullheads seem to come from miles away for
    this fly. Not that I'm trying to give every Bullhead in the Sound a sore mouth
    but sometimes it feels like it.

    Attached Files:

  18. I'm going to be fishing from my boat tomorrow. I will have two rods set up with different lines. Both rods are 9' so maybe I will see a difference in my hook up to fish in hand %. I will let you know.
  19. Looks good.
    If you are fishing for coho and catching a lot of sculpin, you should be stripping faster IMHO.
  20. Bagman, your fly looks pretty good, but I'd still put the stinger farther back and maybe go up one hook size. This is my usual "awful clouser" pattern which has landed over 12 coho with less than a handful lost (no pink data yet). Notice that the stinger hook is at the very end of the tail material; I think that there is no drawback to having the stinger this far back.

    Attached Files:

    Bagman likes this.

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