Chiro colors

Discussion in 'Stillwater' started by JMitchell, Feb 8, 2010.

  1. My box contains about halfnhalf, curved and straight. Most of the time I'm chirono fishing I can't tell if the fish prefer one or the other. Some days I do notice a better hooking ratio on the curved hook esp. the smaller bugs. Sometimes it depends on how aggressive the fish are feeding. When they're feeding more aggressively I do better with a straight hook. When they're feeding casually with soft takes the curved hooks works better. Just a few observations with too many variants to be science, but with enough mystery to keep me going back for more!
  2. in sizes 20-12. here is my box:

    Tan with black ribbing pheasant back, peacock herl with white ostridge herl gills.
    Tan with gold ribbing pheasant back, peacock herl with white ostridge herl gills.
    Tan with Olive ribbing pheasant back, peacock herl with white ostridge herl gills.
    Brown with black ribbing pheasant back, peacock herl with white ostridge herl gills.
    Brown with gold ribbing pheasant back, peacock herl with white ostridge herl gills.
    Brown with olive ribbing pheasant back, peacock herl with white ostridge herl gills.
    olive with black ribbing pheasant back, peacock herl with white ostridge herl gills.
    Olive with silver ribbing pheasant back, peacock herl with white ostridge herl gills.
    Black with black ribbing pheasant back, peacock herl with white ostridge herl gills
    Black with tan ribbing pheasant back, peacock herl with white ostridge herl gills
    All white epoxy covered.
    All tan epoxy covered
    Brown with Black rib epoxy covered
    White with tan ribbing epoxy covered.
    Tan with Brown ribbing epoxy covered.
    A ton of traditional red butt chronnies.
    olive butt penny brights
    tan butt penny brights
    brown butt penny brights
    black butt penny brights.
  3. What's that saying about kiss my ass my camera broke...................? Just Wonderin'........ :)
  4. Sweet list of 'mids Be Jofus G.... You sure that is all of them?
  5. Can't we just all get along???????????
  6. Yeah, I went on a 2 month midge tying bender a couple years ago. I gave away all of the ones that didn't work for me. Those are the ones I have left. All have caught fish. The pennybrites are my favorite. All of the patterns are common. nothing special. I'm pretty convinced that as long as you keep em skinny when you tie them, you'll be in good shape.

    LOL caveman, just flipping a little sheit. :rofl: I need to work on my 12 step sensitivity program a bit. Breaking my cannon has caused me to relapse.
  7. I'm hosting a Chiro fly swap now; two spots left....Sign up if you want to share a couple of your favorites...
  8. Sorry I didnt give my input if it matters right...

    I think all factors effect how a certain fly will fish. Color, size, profile, presentaion.....simply everything effects its success rate. The only way to combat this and boost success rates is to carry a bunch of flies. I like black/red, brown/red, olive/red.....that is ussually what I start with.
  9. Loop knot: definitely an improvement over the standard clinch knot. Depth, I think, is most critical, followed by size and shape. The comment about color and what it looks like at different depths was confirmed in a book I read by a scientist who studied how light waves in water make colors appear different in water than what we see in the air. Depth, density and the amount of light penetrating the water column cause additional color changes compared with what we see above the water's surface. My guess is fly color closer to the surface is more important than color in deeper water. My motto is, if you aren't catching anything, change location, fly or fish until you do.
  10. If you read Phil Rowley, he can really help. His theory on hook shape is interesting: basically if chirons are coming off the bottom and staging to begin their ascent to the surface, he prefers straight shank hooks because they haven't started migrating upward (wiggling). Mid water or when the bugs begin to move from the lake bottom towards the surface, he prefers curved shank hooks to imitate the wiggling motion of the ascending insects. He also likes the idea of tying "redbutts" on the pupal patterns as they change from the larval stage to pupal stage which suggests the straighter shanked ties should incorporate a turn or two of something red near the butt of the fly. Even on the curved patterns, we've gotten in the habit of adding a little red at the butt of the fly. Grey/redbutts have become a staple pattern. Thin is important and therefor we use little more than 8/0 tying thread to make the bodies and coat them all with superglue to preserve the color and add durability.
  11. Mark-when I was at Dry Falls a couple weeks ago, someone was killing a fish (I guess one is legal in that lake) and gave all the stomach contents to one of the fly club members. That bottle was FULL of chiros and it was interesting to see them swim around. Most were what I would call a "chromie" with a shiny grey body in sizes 12 2x down to 20 1x. Very interesting to see that! I thought they looked just like my static bag chromies, but I would think a grey thread body coated with superglue would be a good imitation as well. Do you get the weight for the fly from the bead or do you wrap some lead up near the head? Rick
  12. Rick, I never weight chirons, no place to hide the lead without making the fly too bulky or perverting the taper. These bugs are definitely tapered. I use either metal beads (which adds weight) but actually use more ceramic beads, which can be found ridiculously cheap at any bead shop, to simulate midge gills. The metal beads obviously add some weight, but the ceramic beads are pretty light. To get long leaders down with small flies I use a combination of barrel swivels, super-small splitshot, or multiple flies. Its also a good idea to keep some patterns without beads in your fly box. "Old style" antron gills on patterns used for selective or "educated" fish which see a lot of flies. MM
  13. A gunmetal grey chironomid , tied with flashabou for the body , ribbed with red wire , and black bead , is one of my favorite patterns .
  14. Brian, any chance you have a photo of the gunmetal grey with flashabou? It sounds simliar to a few I've purchased, but I've yet to really get into tying smaller chiros, dries and emergers. I need to force myself to tie smaller flies, many of those boxes need refilling. Thanks.
  15. gunmetal grey is the standard Rowley "static interference" anti-static bag chironomid pattern, using strips of anti-static bag material used to package electronics components -- his theory is when the pupae are readying to ascend, the gasses which form between the shuck and insect emit a translucence, or shimmering effect when reflecting light - its the trapped gasses inside the casing which allow the insect to move towards the surface - he, too, likes the black bead vs. white because the fly by itself is bright enough and easily seen by fish
  16. Ed - I`ll post a pic tonight . I`m heading out the door in a couple of minutes to go fish a big fish lake .
  17. You can easily add lead without changing the taper or profile of your bug.
    Buy some 0.010 lead wire. Two turns for 16's and 18's with small beads, three for 12's and 14's with larger beads. Slide the lead up inside the beads and push it in tight with the tip of an old pair of tying scissors.
    No change to the taper or profile of the bug and it really helps increase the sink rate.
    Tungsten beads of course are the other option.
  18. good ideas re: adding lead; personally it doesn't work real well for me because I use so few metal beads. I use cheap ceramic beads (all colors and sizes) in which there is no space to cram anything. Another "theory" I have is that in general I don't like adding weight to stillwater patterns because (in my mind anyway) it causes them to act unnaturally in the water. Weighted flies resist currents, especially small flies which are more affected by current than bigger bugs. Subtle movements I want to impart to the fly are affected by added weight and can make the fly appear less natural. I achieve depth by changing lines or adding small types of weight (or more flies) to some other portion of the terminal tackle, not to the fly itself. About the only flies I add weight to are the Denny Rickards leech patterns in which he adds lead to the front portion of the fly to give it a jigging motion when retrieved. I'm speaking strictly stillwater fishing here. Rivers are a different matter all together.

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