CHIRONOMID THREAD -

Discussion in 'Stillwater' started by Drifter, Jan 11, 2012.

  1. Nick Clayton

    Nick Clayton Active Member

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    As I'm just about set up to start tying again on a limited basis if any of you guys would include the recipe for some of your mids I would sure appreciate it!
     
  2. pond monkey

    pond monkey Guest

    "Anti static bag chironomids" are more and more popular, and it's not just a cutesy trend but they are empirically based .... a variation of the chromie/ chromer type but a more toned down look as often found in nature.... You can substitute "gun metal grey" flashabou for the a.s.b. material .... Tie 'em beaded or buzzer style... color of thread underbody changes the tone a bit.....so white is good....They work....

    PM
     
  3. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    I don't know if this works...Chromie

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Drifter

    Drifter Active Member

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    Like blue showed in a different post and how pond states using under body colors brighten's the fly from the inside-I like to use silver tinsel under red v-rib before wrapping the v-rib, makes the body have depth. I also use white thread under body if I want a brighter fly. Many of the chiro braids can be lightened with threads or tinsels also.

    #14 OR 16 200R 2 OR 3X LONG
    1/8 white bead or 7/64th
    chrome flat tinsel under=
    small or medium red vinyl rib
    brown or black dubbing
    white para post wing for top gills
    can add wrap of black french mini flat braid-lagartun for a black and red.

    my local shop just got this french mini flat braid and i really like using it now.

    Here is a medium v-rib with dark thread and a - small v-rib with chrome flat tinsel underneath and brown dubbing, white bead.

    View attachment 48333 View attachment 48332

    You can also use scud hooks or what ever hook you like.

    The black and red done with red and black french mini braid and peacock dubbing. Hope this helps!

    View attachment 48334
     
  5. Drifter

    Drifter Active Member

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    Great video blue!
     
  6. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    Cool, so it worked.
     
  7. pond monkey

    pond monkey Guest


    Hey Mark,
    I don't understand why tiers use that 200R hook especially in 14s and smaller..... the gape is too small for the shank length.... That applies I think when you may be targeting fish that are 4 lbs and up.... The 2302 is 2XL and has a humped shank for a more "natural" look like the 200 R .... and a fly with basically the same size/ profile (as one tied on a 200R) can be tied on that hook and have quite a bit bigger gape for hooking more flesh.... and landing more fish... just sayin'....
    Regards .....Paul
     
  8. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    Never had an issue with the gap. I like the looks of that 2302, but I just like straight eyes...not sure why, just do.
    ALLEN Fly Fishing has some nice hooks though, I am liking the AFF 2312
     
  9. troutpocket

    troutpocket Active Member

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    My problem with the 200R style is they bend out quite easily. I only fish them in #8's and larger which have heavier wire. I've been tying this winter with the 2302 style and look forward to field testing in a few weeks.
     
  10. Drifter

    Drifter Active Member

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    I fish the 200R on the lakes around here where a big fish is twenty inches! biggest being 25 and weak! when i fish crane or any other trophy lake i would go to a 10 2xl or 12 3xl because i like the shape and length or I go to the scud hook IN 2X STRONG. but in general size 14 3xl 200R is just fine for most lakes that i fish within 2 hours of home. I will check into the 2302 if it has the same slow bend and long point as the 200R. I have had no problems with the 200R hook in 10 and 12 for fish to 6 pounds with 8 pound fluoro and have never straightened one out. but maybe that's because I use nothing but full flex 80's orvis rods that actually flex while fighting a fish and help a lot with tippet and hook holding- just IMO --- true trophy lakes are a whole different story and should be adjusted to which I do and i would think any fisherman would adjust to. maybe that's my problem is thinking most people would know to do these things and don't explain all the way when I post. AND MAYBE THAT'S YOUR PROBLEM WITH MY POST'S - Is that i give the fisherman on this forum the benefit that they know what they are doing - BUT I DID SAY TO USE A SCUD HOOK OR ANY OTHER HOOK YOU LIKE!

    So my correction = trophy lakes with 8 to 20 pound fish use a different hook people. Is that better FOR YOU POND? ALL you had to post was that when targeting trophy fish you would use a different hook and I would of agreed. I have to go catch some wild coldwater fish on my #14 3xl 200R's in the morning so nighty night and tight lines!
     
  11. pond monkey

    pond monkey Guest

    You never have Long Distance Release ? .....I'm not talking about bending hooks but the age old LDR phenom... I too prefer the straight eye.... and the Tiemco 2312 is a beauty but it is 1 XF wire ( a dry fly hook) .... so the wire is a bit light for big fish.....IMHO... The 2302 eye is slightly down turned and the shank beautifully curved and has standard wire....


    Regards.....PM
     
  12. pond monkey

    pond monkey Guest

    Hi Mark,
    I was just commenting on that hook in the smaller sizes....I quit using the 200R altogether years ago, because of problems with LDR syndrome......feel free to critique anything that I say.... iron sharpens iron....I like to see you posting on this forum. You are obviously a smart guy with a lot of passion for the sport.
    Something else that I discovered some years ago is the the shorter the shank the ( fishing barbless) the greater the chances of successfully landing fish..... longer shanks = more LDR.... and that is because the shank is a lever and the longer it is , the more of it (shank/ lever) is outside the fishes' mouth and then is can leverage it's way out of the fishes mouth completely as the fish runs, twists and turns =LDR....
    I think you're smart to be using soft action rods Mark....I really like my Sage SP 5 and 6 wt and Winston BIIX 6 wt.... both have soft forgiving tip sections...I remember when Sage came out with the RPL series....a real pool cue but they were the rod to own at the time.....I became very frustrated as I could hardly land a fish with mine.... always tearing flesh ( we were using #14 hares ears a lot.....fishing the Deschutes).... until I realize that it was the rod and not me.....

    regards....Paul
     
  13. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    Sure I do, but I use 200R down to #18 and for Chironomids and wet flies...no LDRs there. I did have a couple this morning, but ther were on #22 and #24 C49S scuds. Funny you mention this, because I have never (that I can Remember) had any problem with the 200R. Maybe due to the choice of flies I tie on them, A slight kink and it makes a killer Klinkhammer. And they make killer Wet flies/softhackles and Stoners.
     
  14. tkww

    tkww Member

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    Ditto. I found the Dai Riki's to be MUCH worse that TMCs in this regard. Even so, still prefer a 2xh hook when going that long on the shank.


    Also, a question: anybody think brown/orange wing buds are important? I like the way they look, but I don't really like complicating chiro patterns if I don't have to.
     
  15. Irafly

    Irafly Active Member

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    I do not thing wing buds are important at all.

    Ira
     
  16. troutpocket

    troutpocket Active Member

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    Fly Patterns for Stillwaters by Phil Rowley is a good reference with recipes that cover many styles of chironomids as well as other lake fishin' must-haves . . .leeches, scuds, damsels, dragons, callibaetis, caddis, and various emergers.
     
  17. Ben Fishn

    Ben Fishn New Member

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    Hey Mark is there someone on this thread that will sell me an assortment of Mids for lakes? I have alway wanted to fish them.

    Julius
     
  18. Blue

    Blue Active Member

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    Got you cover Julius. ;-)
     
  19. Ben Fishn

    Ben Fishn New Member

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    Awesome Toni!!!! Thanks
     

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