Discussion in 'Stillwater' started by Drifter, Jan 11, 2012.

  1. Blue, I've never had it turn yellow on me, not sure what it's chemical makeup is but I don't believe it's any type of epoxy. It is more expensive than
    Sally's and I think Sally's formula changed a few years back and doesn't seem quite as good to me, IMO. Just thought I'd through it in the mix.
  2. I tied a few of these up a year or so ago and I can say, they are killer in the Rocky Mnts. too.
  3. I use brushable super glue (Locktite) followed by Sally Hansen's. Rick
  4. If your Sally's HAN hardens, add acetone (nail polish remover) a few drops at a time. Good as new.
  5. You're right I'm sure Chewdog but for less than $3 a bottle just I get a new one bottle every year.... I'd rather not be guessing proportions ect .


  6. When ever I add remover it seems to get cloudy. Not sure how it goes on, as I have nevr tried it. I just buy a new bottle like PM
  7. I've dipped a bodkin into the remover, then stirred up the resin. I've not noticed it clouding up, but I also tend to just buy new when I need it. My girls have a variety of colors too. I've mixed some of their colors with clear to make a colored but transparent version.
  8. If you want to buy some killer chironomids get a hold of Randy Diefert. I think he is on the board as "longears" but not sure. He is a local Island guy that teaches and ties "liquid lace" style bugs. He has been featured at many big time fly tying shows and sells through his website. Do a google search for Randy's tying supplies. Tell him what lakes you want to fish (Lone, Pass, BC lakes, etc.) he'll get you set up with some great bugs.
    "I don't always fish Chironomids, but when I do.....I always fish Randy's"
  9. Wow thanks for the tip islander. I just got done browsing his site. He does tie some amazing bugs. Ill be getting in touch with him in the very near future.
  10. I have a theory.... it's about addiction. If you start using a scent on your fly and you have a good day, there is the natural tendency to credit at least some of that success to the use of scent... you do it again the next time out and the next.... before you know it you think that you must use it all the time for success....
    I think that the same kind of dynamic is at play with how we choose and rate our fly patterns, or our own system... we think that we must use this pattern or that to have success.
    To me buzzer style (no bead) flies clearly look the best.... and for sure they work well.... and beaded flies, not so much .... some old school guys don't like 'em at all....... but the thing is, they undeniably work well and white beads ( the white representing gills) work really well and ya don't need to tie on gill filaments.
    I have had more than one conversation with that Herman guy (the creator of the "larva lace" system) ....... with all due respect, he would make a great heroin dealer 'cause he wants everyone to become addicted to his fly system..... and he wants you to loose faith in your own. I don't buy it, maybe it's just the stubborness that kept me from joining a cult back in the hippie days............
    My point would be remain open to different patterns and I still think that success out on the water is determined about 80% by presentation and 20% by pattern (assuming that your pattern is in the general ballpark.)
    Sorry for rambling PM
  11. Agreed. Have confidence in whatever you are fishing and put it in front of the fish. But stick to the 10 minute rule, too . . .move or change some part of your presentation if you're not hooked up every 10 minutes.
  12. Like I said, I am love Chironomid fishing and I too play around looking for the ULTIMATE. I really like the effect of the Tubing.
    Last year I cam apon a different idea. Realizing color at times can be a big KEY, I started playing with colors. I was also wrapping a rod at the time and learned if you do not coat silk with a color set it goes translucent.
    So I came up with my TRANSFORMER flies.
    I wrap the fly with Danville Blue because Danville doesn't change colors when wet:
    I then did a single layer of YELLOW silk on top
    The results is a very popular Olive

    Understand, you cannot coat this fly with any coating though.

    White on Red, nice blood midge, or Yellow on Red a killer Orange....
  13. Hi Blue,
    I think your flies are definitely cute with their bright, whimsical colors...
  14. Blue-in the last photo-did you just put water on the fly to make the transparency and color change to olive? Cool fly
  15. Yes sorry I forgot "just add water".
  16. Great idea Blue. Thanks for the clear explanation and photos. I'll give it a try
  17. wait so do you guys use sinking line for chironomids or floating line?
    and how long is your guys leader line? lets say we are going to fishing at 15ft of water.
    Where would you put your strike indicator?
    how would your set up be?
    sorry just couldnt handle reading all of your guys post.
  18. Hi Top,
    Since no else is chiming in, I would start by asking what type of craft you use because that makes a huge difference... Everyone I know uses a boat, anchors up, uses a floating line and fishes standing up. Floating lines are generally best as they enables you to be stationary and to consistently present your fly in the zone which is usually two to three feet off the bottom... and one can fish quite deep..... up to 25 feet and little more...
    Fifteen feet is pretty deep and sinking lines are hard to control (keeping in the zone with much consistency)...though sometimes fish are found up higher in the water column especially during heavy hatches but they will likely be down mid water column anyway as they like the cover that depth provides...
    Hope this helps a little anyway...

  19. thanks man. and i fish in a float tube when fly fishing.

  20. I guess we do it different here. If you are fishing 15' I will either use a Type VII line with a six foot straight fluoro leader and cast maybe 15' to 20' of line. I mark the line with Knot Sense at 30' with a dab/small lump. It is basically Jigging. Slowly strip the line in.
    OR, if you are sure you are in 15' of water , I would use 18' of fluoro/mono. Put a loop and connect it staright to my floating line with the loop to loop connection. I would put one Chironomid on the end, then come up 2 to 3 feet and attach a 12" tag and another fly. I would set the indicator at 14', so the fly is one foot off the bottom (give or take).
    Some times while doing this, I will peel off some fly line so the indicator is maybe 20 to 30 feet away from we and then drag it a few feet, then let it settle. However 15' is somewhat castable. I found on calm days a twitch helps every now and then, but waves work great.

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