Discussion in 'Fly Fishing Forum' started by nobait, Jan 25, 2002.

  1. nobait

    nobait New Member

    I am a total tyro when it comes to fly fishing, 45 years fishing and less than a year fly fishing. What makes a good chriomonid fisherman??
    I have seen patterns of them but what is all this stuff about stirke indicators? Also is my spelling correct?
  2. ray helaers

    ray helaers New Member

    The correct spelling is chironomid (chironimid?). When flyfishers say chironomid, they are generally refering to midge-pupa patterns, mostly fished subsurface in lakes and ponds. A good chironimid fisher has patience, the ability to fish slowly, and sometimes do nothing at all but stare at a "strike indicator," or as you may know it from your 45 years' experience in other angling, a bobber. (The flyfisher is always careful to call his pole a rod, and his bobber a strike indicator. You'll get used to it.)

    Now of course sometimes chironomid fishing can be fast and furious, and at those times any fool can do it. I am living testament. What seperates the men from the boys are the slow days, when no one is catching much. Except you, suspended in your float tube, staring glassy-eyed for twenty minutes at a time at that little orange bit of foam floating out there on the end of your best throw, the tiny pupa imitation hanging ten to twelve feet below, waiting for a cruiser. Yes it is slow fishing, painfully so, but at the end of the day you're likely to reflect back on a dozen fat trout brought to net when your fellows went fishless.

    Me, I can go about three minutes before I'm scanning the reeds, the horizon, my stripping apron, thinking of something cute the boy did, projects left undone, days when I had the hot rod, any number of things beside the business at hand. Luckily, there are times when a more active approach will work, but if you're cut out for "indicator" fishing, you'll suffer very few skunkings.
  3. Rob Blomquist

    Rob Blomquist Formerly Tight Loops

    Everything that Ray says is true. But the ruleof thumb is that one should start fishing chironomids 1 foot off the bottom, slowly moving it up if no strikes occur.

    There are 2 other ways to fish chiros other than the indicator method: with a sinking line straight down from your tube or boat, slowly inching it to the surface, and with a intermidiate sink line slowly inched across the bottom. And slow means that a cast should be retrived every 10 minutes or so.

    I'll take the bobber.

  4. ChucknDuck

    ChucknDuck New Member

    After watching a fellow next to me hammer about a dozen fish to my one a few years ago at Big Twin Lake near Winthrop, I decided to abandon my method of casting it out and letting it sit. I'm a firm believer in the twitch and pause method of chrinomid fishing (partially due to my impatience). After adjusting the fly to the correct depth for the situation, I cast, let it sink and sit for 30 seconds or so and then strip in a few inches of line. Let it sit again and repeat the process. Usually the take comes right after the strip when the fly is falling again. I've increased my productivity with this method threefold. Funny however that fish seem to like this method of the fly travelling horizontally when the natural go up. A little action can't hurt I suppose.

    In addition, I always tie my chrinomids as slender as possible. Keep the body thin. I also use a curved hook like a scud hook. For the body I use a material called spanflex (superfloss etc...) it is stretchy and makes a nice thin body and is tougher than say goose biot. Thread works fine also but I hate making ten thousand wraps to cover the shank.

    Go Cougars!!
  5. fishnfella

    fishnfella New Member

    Fish till ya drop.
    Then suck it up
    and fish the evening hatch.

    There are a few tricks that haven't been mentioned yet.
    First you cannot stare directly at your strike indicator. It's the same principle as looking at a womans tatas. Nothin good gonna happen if you stare right at em. You gotta develope perrehiperal vision and seem to be looking elsewhere before you'll get action.
    Where to fish....look for the swallows. They know where the eats are.
    Look for the shucks on the water too. Generally early in the year the relatively flat areas of 4' to 12' are where the action is.
    To move em or not to move em? Varies day to day and place to place.
    Keep movement a slow twitch or barely moving troll if ya prefer not to anchor up. If winds up, you gotta anchor for best results.
    Strike indicators are the way to go for sure. Keep that pupa in the strike zone max. time. Know the strike zone by your fishfinder, but if ya haven't scoped a predominant depth, 1'to 2' off bottom is the place to start and normally gets fish even when they're scattered in depth.
    Patterns are less important than sizes I've found. Fish the predominant size showing in the shucks and go through the colors,black,brown,green,red,tan. If waters murky, algae stained those mylar flashy patterns are often good. Otherwise stick with muted colors. That superfloss is good body stuff and peacock or Canadian peacock diamond dub is dynomite stuff. Beadheads of brass or colored Indian seed beeds are sometimes good.

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