It all started when I left my net at home...on purpose. I want to learn how to effectively wear a fish down and control them for a beached landing. Great idea, but after the 5th or 6th fish to LDR I was getting frustrated. The run that I was fishing had a very slow head water, slightly fast mid-water and faster tail-out. The fish were all holding in the mid-to-tail-out water. So when I would hook one they would immediately run up and try to shake me off (never gets old watching a fish that size do that right in front of you). Most of the time I can manage keeping them on durring the fight but I have trouble getting them to the shallower head-water for a landing when they begin to tire out. This means they start to roll downstream in the stronger current and at that point I may as well put a postal stamp on them and say goodbye. I am using a 9' 7wt medium/fast rod and always keep my rod tip up. Out of my 2 days on the river I was able to land one 34" hen....becaue a guy with a net saw that I needed help . Yep.
Use a beefier rod. While a 9ft 7wt is a fairly effective tool for most steelhead, larger fish and fish holding in those difficult landing areas may require you to go to an 8 or even 9 weight. Keeping a lower rod angle and fighting the fish using the lower end of the rod(the butt) is where the power of a rod is. Use 12 or 15 lb maxima and fight the fish hard. Sounds like you were doing something right hooking that many fish.....nice!
The only thing I could suggest that you do differently is once you get the fish close to shore, position yourself downstream, apply sideways pressure, bring the fish's head up and guide the fish down to you...if you try and pull them directly across into shallow water, you'll usually make them very uncomfortable and send them back out or downstream. I use a 7 weight pretty consistently, and don't have any problems landing fish quickly on 10lb+ Maxima. Ultimately, my question would be, if you have a net and can effectively carry it, why not use it? I'm curious why you decided to leave it behind? It's way better for the fish's health as it generally results in a much quicker landing and better for your mental health as there is less potential for disaster at the end.
Just because a guy is using a single-hander doesn't mean he isn't swinging a fly...only in the past 10 years has the single-hander been perceived as solely an indicator tool within the steelhead world. There are still guys that very effectively swing flies with a 9'0" 7 weight...
I will give my two-cents on the subject= first keeping the rod tip up at all times is wrong. it gives them they're head when ever they want. when I first started steel on a fly it was in the late 70's and never carried a net, I always tailed them for years from the bank. dropping the rod down and up stream keeps they're heads toward up river where you want them. I always directed the fish where I wanted them to go, if you drop the rod to the down river side they're heads go down river (with current) and can use that current to they're advantage. learn to direct the fish with your rod angle and you can swim them right up the gravel without even touching them. I used to stay knee deep and tail them and lead the head with the rod right up the rocks or just pull the fly out right they're. Again laying your rod sideways will direct the fish where you want them to go! I've had people tell me to hold the rod tip up and I laugh inside - direct the fish where I want (always trying to keep head up current) I used to fish two holes I had to stand on cliffs and bring they're heads to my feet because it was deep water 12 feet 1 step off the cliff. I remember one day jim teeny fishing the other side when I hooked a monster that finally got in the strong tail-out below me where I could not bring him back up, so I pulled a bunch of fly line out and let it go down stream of the fish making the fish think I had moved down river since the line was now pulling from below him - he swam right to my feet and I reset the hook to hard and freaked him out. ran so fast back-lashed my no drag reel and broke me off. teeny and I both laughed. Learn to direct big fish and you will have no problems. hope this helps! I have also turned my rod sideways on a down stream running fish, then turned it up side down to run a fast running fish"s head into the bottom of the river to stop the run when I had no other choice. IT worked.
I was using a Rio 12lb tapered leader with Rio 13lb tippet, and I'm thinking I need to go to something heavier now. I've also been thinking about purchasing a 7 or 8 wt switch rod...just have to justify if I want a new gun or fishing setup.... The problem with that particular run is that it was durring high water so the faster tailout water was pretty deep and held quite a few fish that I didnt want to step into and spook. I was trying to put my rod sideways but maybe it was ineffective because I was trying to keep my rod tip up too much and caused them to buck more. And your right about pulling them across into shallow water, they all freaked when I tried to do that. I didnt bring my net 'big bertha' because its kinda massive to carry around... and I've been hearing about tailing fish and I figure its time for me to learn how. Very true, I was swinging a few steelie flies those days. Funny thing was that non took at the swing but mainly in the middle of the drift. I was also using egg pattens and some beads. Yes, beads. I'm an opportunist, and the fish were responding very well to the egg and bead patterns. So when you put your rod parallel to the river are your pointing upstream? I have also used the slack line technique. In fact I used this technique last trip. And your right, the fish will usually swim back up stream instead of continuing to go downstream. But I still lost them in the end. Pointing your rod tip upside down? Hearing that makes me think of watching one of those pro-bass guys flick thier pole around like they are doing sword play when they get a fish on. I can see how that may work though by forcing their heads down to stop the run. I was fishing the SF of the Clearwater River
In fast tail-outs it's extremely Important to keep they're heads up river, right after hook set turn rod sideways to have them fight across current so If they do run they run to the other side of the tail-out and up stream. if they run to your side lay rod down and across with them and run them right into the bank below you, you can stop a chromer this way right away but as soon as his head gets down river it's usually done as you probably well know. If you hold the rod tip up it brings them to the top for jumping or pulling on the hook straight out of they're mouth. In the 80's I only used 8 pound maxima but fished smallish rivers in the summer. And yes lost many but also landed hundreds on 9 ft. lami series 1000 rods. your fast 7 should be just as strong - it's all in how you play (direct) them. good luck with your practice ;-) Another thing is that 8 pound maxima brakes at like 12 to 14 pound . when you go to 10 or twelve pound maxima it is at least 5 pounds heavier then rated. rio and other fly line tippet materials are very close to stated line brake point. maxima and now p-line lie about the line braking points and they are also much larger in diameter for they're line weights because of this. I only use fly tippet material for trout, its cheaper for me to use the others for steelhead. And they are much stronger then stated - maxima almost double.
ya dont need a net, thats an easy way to blame somebody else for your fish getting off, and trusting them not to knock it loose. just muscle that thing up to the bank, walking alongside or behind it as you go, for an easy tail grab
I agree with Mark and others, keep your rod tip low, and put preassure and KEEP pressure on the fish from differant angles. Now I will probably catch shit for the next statement- trade the 7wt. for an 8wt. A 7wt. is fine for summer steel . We are talking single hand rods here. A SH 7wt. does not have the backbone for the bigger fish combined with the higher flows found in winter to bring a big winter slab in quick enough for a safe release. Also I would trade the Rio tippet for Maxima, nothing beats maxima for steelhead. It is abrasion resistent, stiff enough to turn over meaty flies, and just plain strong!
Actually, he mentioned he was fishing the SF Clearwater, so he is fishing to summer fish A 7 weight switch rod should be a little heavier than an equivalent 7 weight single hander...so if you wanted to take that route you could. I've tailed a lot of fish, and there are typically always a couple points in the battle where if I had a net, I know I would have ended it much sooner...a fish you get into shore generally has one or two good peel outs from the shallows...with a net that event is reduced significantly. I understand the desire to go light and fast in certain situations, and to know how to tail a fish if the need arises, but I encourage most people I fish with to use a net if at all possible.
Your right, I am still in winter mode. The summer fish on the CW are on the average larger then the summer fish out here on the OP. My first few seasons on the CW were fishing with a SH 8wt, with fish up to 37 inches successfully brought to the beach. With a 7wt. it would have been a real challenge to bring a couple of those fish to the beach. I have not fished a switch rod. The ones i have played with ( TFO 11' 7wt.) does seem to have more backbone then it's SH counterpart. I agree a net would make landing fish a lot easier, and there have been plenty of times I wish I had one. I am wondering how does one keep a net handy when casting and stepping?
I think some of these folks are spot on with their advice, play them hard and fast. That is something I always do. If I lose an extra fish here or there because of it, so be it...the health of the fish is the most important thing here and short of not fishing at all, the best thing you can do is get them in as quickly as possible. But yeah, low, side pressure works really well, especially if you can get below the fish...and fighting it with the butt (of the rod).
Don't tire em out if you're going to let em go. Your CnR mortality will get uncomfortably high. Instead, gear up and yard em in! If you're gonna whack em, then by all means, enjoy the ride, but otherwise, a good rule of thumb. . .if they're not taking line, then you should be. When you first hook up, make a plan. Find a patch of beach someplace where you can comfortably land the fish and figure out how to get there. Get the critter into 4 inches of water, swim the fish by, grab the line with one hand, holding the fish's head up so it doesn't have a steering wheel, and tail the fish with the other hand after tucking the rod betwixt the wickets, then switch the first hand from line to under its thorax. Unbutton and release. Repeat as often as fate will allow, fb BTW a tailing glove is a really handy thing in getting a good grip. Get a Michigan Mit.
All great advice guys, thank you all for your contribution. So I'm thinking of getting at 7wt switch rod by Echo. I've owed Echo in the past and liked the action. Also picking up some skagit line and already bought the 12lb green Maxima leader. Are you guys using a taped leader and putting the Maxima on as the tippet? Or should I just run straight Maxima off my fly line for swinging flies, beads and eggs? Makes more sence to pull the fish in right away rather then tire them out. I'm not out to kill fish unless I want dinner. And for tailing the fish; what kind of glove to use? Cotton, wool? Does it matter? Thanks
Most fish lost during the landing process is due to the hook pulling out due to excessive or sudden pressure. I have found that good strategy is as you lead the fish towards the shallows (with side pressure) be ready to let the fish free run if it bulks at being lead into the shallows. Use just enough drag/pressure to keep the reel from over-running and let the fish run freely. It will usually not go very far and after a couple false starts the fish will allow you to lead it towards the beach. I just slide it into a couple inches of water where I can remove the hook and free the fish - if the fish does not lay there quietly just gentlely cover its eye with your off hand. I fight the fish much the same way that I landed them. That is encourage them run on a light drag and once they stop jab them again. The idea is to beat their will to resist not "fight" them to exhaustion. Finese over brute strength. Every time the fish stops use side pressure to keep the fish off balance. Usually after a couple runs the fish are reasonably easy to handle. With this type of approach one can land some bery large fish on surprising light tackle without unduly taxing the fish. I can not recall the last time I caught a steelhead that required reviving. Everyone of my fly caught steelhead in the last 40 years have been taken on 5 to 7 wieght rods (8# leaders) with very mininal problems - though on ocassional I will purposely break off a stubbron fish rather than exhaust it. Another issue to consider when having lost fish issues are the hooks being used. Small gap hooks or those with "springy" wire will open with excessive or sudden pressure. BTW - A trick I have used for years on fish hooked in difficult spots is what I call "leading the dog". Basically what I do is before the fish runs or once it stops I apply gently pressure (again with the rod sideways to the water) and then slowly walk up stream. Typically with the constant pressure of the slow walk (rather than attempting to reel) fish will follow along. They will at times get "excited" but if you pause they will settle down and once you resume the gentle pressure they will follow along. With this approach you can lead the fish 50 or more yards upstream away from trouble and several times I have been successful in leading some very large fish upstream through riffles/whitewater. I have even had succes with fish holding in very difficult spots (the tailout lip above a rapid, under or along log jams, etc. In those cases the trick is at the take to just gently tight the line rather than setting the hook (obviously one has to be prepare for the take). Many times the fish will hold in position with the fly pulled o the corner of the jaw (sideways pressure helps). After holding the fish in position for a few seconds even a "green" fish will allow you to lead it upstream. Once you reach "safer" water just tight the pressure or walk down to the fish reeling to prevent sl. Once opposite the fish or even below it use side pressure tonock it off balance and you will be off to the races. Tight lines Curt
Any kind of glove will work, really, but the best kind are the kind you don't mind getting soaked. I keep a mesh tailing glove in the right pocket of my fishing jacket, and crack it out when I think it's time to land a fish. The point is it just helps create more friction so you can hold onto the wrist of the fish easier.
