cut fly line - how to fix?

Discussion in 'Fly Fishing Forum' started by tkww, Apr 26, 2012.

  1. tkww

    tkww Member

    Accidentally cut a fly line (cut as in severed, not nicked). It's down a ways in the belly not at the thicker head section. What's the best way to fix it? Or is it simply unfixable? I guess I could create two loops, but that seems pretty bulky. But I'm not sure if there's another way. Any suggestions?
  2. rainbow

    rainbow My name is Mark Oberg

    I would try those nylon webbed loops thing's. cut off the loop and secure well on both ends.
  3. Cedar

    Cedar Active Member

    I would scrap it
  4. fredaevans

    fredaevans Active Member

    Sign up-log into the spey pages web board. "We" do it all the time. That aside, if its a 'cheap line,' just chuck it and get a better one?
  5. NewTyer1

    NewTyer1 Banned or Parked

    There are as stated, nylon loops that go on the end of your fly line to tie on your leader. Cut off the loop, put a drop of crazy glue on either piece of fly line and insert them into the nylon mesh. If it holds your leader on without slipping off, I would imagine it will be fine unless your using it for large fish like Salmon or steelhead. For trout and other small fish, you should be fine
  6. Salmo_g

    Salmo_g Active Member

    What kind of line is it? (as in: WF7F, etc.)

    How many feet from the front end of the line is the cut?

    You could weld the line back together, or since you're asking, some one else could do it for you.

  7. tkww

    tkww Member

    It's a WF 4 wt. Rio Gold.

    It's probably 50+ feet from the tip. Well past the head and into the belly/running line.

    What's your mailing address?
  8. _WW_

    _WW_ Fishes with Wolves

    That line can probably be spliced back together.
  9. allenro

    allenro Active Member

    Cut the head off and use a running line if your not confident in the splice.
  10. Preston

    Preston Active Member

    The part of the line you are referring to, where the cut is located, is the running line. Most weight forward lines have a short tip, a forward taper, a belly, a rear taper and running line. The belly is the "thicker head section". Some years ago, I posted some directions and step-by-step pictures of the Keough Splice. It's a little complicated but is one of the best flyline splices. Use the search function and look for Keough Splice or Keough Epoxy Splice.
  11. tkww

    tkww Member

    Thanks, Preston. I will look that up.
  12. jwg

    jwg Active Member

  13. Jim Darden

    Jim Darden Active Member

    Lots of good advice....bottom line is there are a lot of ways to splice it back together if you want to. The welded splice is the coolest but none of them return the line to the original condition. In the "olden" times, all our steelhead lines were spliced together pieces of line because you couldn't get an integrated head or a sink tip. We lived with them but the new lines are sure nicer. It just depends on how picky you are. I'd probably get a new line.
  14. Nooksack Mac

    Nooksack Mac Active Member

    The Keough or other blind splice makes the neatest repair, with a tiny seam that you can barely feel. But you need good visual instruction to learn how to do it. If you don't mind a slightly raspy connection, a served splice works well. Strip 1 1/'2 inches of line coating from the ends. Trim the bare sections to exactly the same length. Lay them together, with each end at the beginning of the coated line. Using a tying bobbin and fly tying thread, hold the thread and the two sections between your fingers. Whirl the bobbin around the two bare cores, from one end to the other, making consecutive wraps. Finish with a pull-through loop. Cover the wraps with a flexible, waterproof glue or other coating: Pliobond, fingernail hardener, etc.
  15. Preston

    Preston Active Member

    Since the pictures are no longer available, I'll re-post them. Remove the line coating with acetone (soften and scrape it off with your fingernails). The only tools necessary are a pin vise (or needle vise, available from some hobby shops, you can use a pair of pliers but a pin vise works best) and a loop of unwaxed dental floss. When George Keough developed this splice he used epoxy but I like to use some of the more modern flexible adhesives like Aqua-Seal or Shoe Goo.

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