cutthroat boats

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by hendersonbaylocal, Nov 10, 2009.

  1. On the theme of Roger Stephens thread, I thought I'd post a photo of a skiff I picked up a few months ago. She's a pretty heavily built cross planked wood flat bottom skiff. I'm going to be doing a bit of painting over the next few months and hopefully splashing about the time the resident silver fishing starts to heat up. I'll post some photos as things progress and of the final product. Was hoping that Milt and some others would post some photos of their boats here.
  2. You sure have got a beautiful boat with classic lines! It will be enjoyable to see photographs as you progress with redoing it. Does it have a flat bottom from bow to stern?

  3. Thanks Roger. Yes, she has a flat bottom from bow to stern. Only draws a few inches and is very stable. I haven't had her out in anything rough yet, but I bet she will do OK even if it's a hard ride. Very heavily built and has some good weight to her. I'm also going to add some oarlocks for stalking fish and positioning the boat on a drift. Other than that, I'm going to keep everything very simple as it originally was.
  4. What a beauty. More Pics!

    I'm surprised it didn't already have oarlocks, but those are easy to add. You might consider two sets so your buddy and you can trade off rowing while you are playing fish or making a cast, and then when "running" on the oars you get the manpower of two.

    I post a picture of the oar blocks on my boat - They sit on top of the gunwale rails. I'll need to get a close-up to show the detail. Could also go between the rails, but I like mine up a bit so the oars don't rub.

    Great find on that boat.
  5. Took a few shot of the oar locks for you today - I copied these after the original, so this is how they did them back in the day (by Mojean-Erickson at least).

    Proably many other options, but these seem to work well.
  6. Milt,

    Very, very nice piece. :thumb:
  7. iagree Sweet ass boat.
  8. Milt, your boat is great! Thanks for posting the photos of the oar locks.

    I'll post more photos of mine in a few days.
  9. Just to suggest. If you are setting it up to row you would probably benefit from sitting in the boat, in the water, and trying the oars- with oarlocks- at the existing rail height first. Then if you like that clearance for pulling you wont have to add riser blocks. You can have several different thickness shim blocks handy to test for the best riser height if needed. Drill holes in them for the oarlock to sit in too, that way you really know what you have. If you want to get fancy you can clamp temporary risers in and install the oarlocks in the holes, and then row around a bit to see how that works. No need for riser blocks if the clearance is right to begin with. And less for your rod and line, net etc, to get hung up on at the rails. There are a number of different ways to set up the oarlocks from aft the seat thwart edges in terms of distance. I found that 13 inches worked good for me. I have heard from a range of 12" to 15". But if you take the time to test this out with clamped in blocks and your oarlocks in place, rowing around a while, you will find the right spot for your oarlock locations. This makes a big difference in a long day of rowing or in an emergency when you are really pulling hard. Either way you get the most efficient result. I love the old school work ethic look of your boat.
  10. Words of wisdom there for sure. My oar locks work great for my rather short stature, but when I let others take the oars I can see where they could be set a bit differently to make them better fit the individual. An adjustable set up might even be a suggestion if different people are going to use the boat. I have one rather tall fishing buddy who can't help digging the oars too deeply when a rowing my boat and it probaby has something to do with the height of the oar locks for his particular frame (or his reluctance to row the boat when he can get me to do it).
  11. Milt: What is the thickness of the wood used for the sides and bottom of your skiff?
  12. I started with 3/4 inch cedar then I planed it down to 9/16. That's what the original boat had for thickness. Anything thicker would probably be too thick to bend around the frame. Construction is all cold-built around the frame without steaming the wood. Up near the bow, the wood really had to bend and twist at the same time. Definitely was pucker time for me when it came to tightening the clamps. I'm pretty sure 3/4 in planks would have split. And at ten bucks a foot for the wood, you don't want to have it blow up on you and have to go buy more.

    Here are a couple shots showing how much that wood had to bend and twist.
  13. I don't think I ever posted a picture of the original skiff i used as a pattern. The friend I borrowed it from at one time had 3 when I was a kid, they were sure cool boats.
  14. Thanks Bob, I was planning to do a mock-up before mounting anything, but it's good to have a range to work in! I'll have to think if there would be a way to make them adjustable without making things too complicated.

    Milt, thanks for posting the photos of your boat. Fun to see the original as well!
  15. There are a lot of skiff plans out there. Did you ever go looking for plans that were close?
  16. Frank - I know there are plans for cross-planked flat bottom skiffs on the net - Sounds like HBL's boat is like those. Really nice boats. I never looked around for plans because I had my mind made up that I wanted to copy the Mojean skiff my Dad's friend had. It was made locally, was the traditinal fishing skiff for cutthroat in Puget Sound, and I had a connection to it from rowing that same kind of boat as a kid. It was easy to take the lines from the old boat and make a copy. Plus I could look at the details of the construction from the original boat when I wondered how they did something.
  17. A few more photos. Started stripping paint, so she looks pretty ugly at the moment.

  18. Sweet! The caps on the gunwale and bow would sure look nice stripped down and varnished...Is that what you are thinking too?

    Any idea what kind of wood the planks are? Who made the boat? How old?

    Looks like she was built for outboard power, and I agree with Bob that if you decide to add oarlocks it would be best if they were not set up on blocks. If the height is right, setting a nice brass receiver for the oars into the gunwale would minimize changing the original design and keep everything out of the way of your casting when you aren't on the sticks.

    Looking forward to tracking your progress. Beautiful boat.
  19. She was built in the late 80s by a maritime museum back east. The owner I purchased her from called it a Chesapeake Bay Oyster Skiff. The frames and some of the other structure is oak. I think the planking is some sort of cedar, but I'm not sure. I'll try to get a photo of the planks as I was wondering about what it is. I'm not the best at identifying non local woods.

    I was thinking about varnishing the gunwales until I got into stripping paint and found that there is a pretty bad looking scarf joint where they used a bunch of epoxy to bridge a big gap. The gunwales look like they are the same wood as the hull planking. The caps (outwales?) are oak.

    She was definitely built for outboard power. I don't plan on rowing her much except for positioning on a drift or sneaking up on a school of silvers. I've already purchased some nice flush mount brass oarlocks and my plan was to see if I could get them to work without adding risers. With the height and shape of the rails I think it will.
  20. More progress... nearly done stripping paint. Getting ready to remove some bad wood and scarf in new stuff in a couple minor places, then prep and paint.

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