damaged TnT

Discussion in 'Spey Clave' started by scotch, Mar 25, 2006.

  1. I am still waiting to talk to the rod makers but I need to get a guide on my 1307 re-wrapped. Is this an easy enough job that I can have it done locally or is there more involved. I've never wrapped or repaired a rod, but I have waited a month to get one returned. It is the third eye from the tip so it seems like a delicate job to me.
    Any thoughts appreciated.
  2. It's really a fairly simple task. If you would like some info, give All About the Fly (a site sponsor) a call. Ron or Kristin can get you set up to do this. Good folks, and knowedgeable.
  3. Call, Jim at Fetha Styx, a site sponsor. He'll get you fixed up in no time and it will look brand new!

  4. i am not sure what would happen to the warranty (if there is one) but a lot of companies will not let something be repaired by an individual or else the warranty is void.
    otherwise it is a simple job.
  5. re: warranty: if a rod fails in a way related to your repair, then the warranty can be void. However, if you repair the 3rd guide and then butt section breaks, it won't be a problem.

    the repair is fairly easy to do. If you know how to tie flies, this is a piece of cake by comparison
  6. Thanks for the info guys
  7. T&T has no problem with someone either replacing a guide by himself or having someone do it for him. In other words, replacing the guide by someone other than T&T will have no effect on the T&T warrantee, unlike many other rod makers. I'd do it myself; but since you have not wrapped guides before, Feather Stix, All about the Fly, or Greg's are probably better choices for you. The only reason it is faster to have it done locally is because the rod doesn't have to travel all the way to the east coast and back again, which takes a few weeks.
  8. Scotch,

    As others mention, this is an easy job. If you're looking for some local assistance, email me. I live in the same general area as you. I wrap my own rods and would be happy to wrap a guide for you. You then just need to get some rod wrap expoxy to coat it, and you're back in business. You might want to call TnT and ask what thread and color number they use on your rod to get a good match. Email me at salmo_g@hotmail.com if you like.


    Salmo g.
  9. One note - I've noticed that T&T uses a different thread finish than most companies. I suspect it's a proprietary ultra thin epoxy, but they won't tell me. I haven't been able to match it yet using the old Clemens Crystal Coat or newer U-40 finishes. Someone who does it professionally probably stands a better chance than me, but if you want it to match exactly, I'd send it in. They are pretty good about getting them back quickly. However, from above comments it sounds like you could have someone fix it and send it in later.

    Hope this helps.
  10. Which U-40 finish are you using? The T&T finish looks like around 3 coats of normal low build to me. Each coat would have to be ultra thin, but I think it's achievable without a special formula.
  11. Back when I was building a lot of rods, I was using the latest iteration of Duragloss LS (Supreme, I believe). I haven't seen their two handed rods, but what I've noticed on my 6wt is a nice "rolled" edge on each wrap and a thin finish over the middle of the wrap. I've experimented with this in the past and found that ultra thin finishes like the old Clemens Crystal coat tend to flow towards the edges of the wrap (ala T&Ts). With finishes like Flex Coat or Duragloss, even the thin versions, they tend to flow towards the center of the wrap. Using multiple thin coats solves this problem and beautiful finishes are fairly easily doable with any of the 3 finishes I mentioned. But I think there are some inherent differences - look at thread finish between a T&T and a Winston and you'll see what I'm talking about. Both are done well and look great, but there are some subtle differences. The caveat is that a "rolled" edge can be achieved with a higher build formula, you just have to time it right.

    I'm sure there are lots more experienced professional builders out there with contrary opinions. These are just my observations over time. As far as the original post is concerned, none of this matters. Fixing the guide can be done by lots of folks - probably even a good skill to learn on your own. For an absolutely exact match, I'd probably send it back at some point (not during the peak of fishing season) and have T&T do it or redo it. Any local professional will likely be able to come close or very close and this might not be an issue.
  12. Sounds like I've got some experimenting to do! If you have a photo of the things you are stating that would be awesome. Being able to match different kinds of finish shapes is definately a good skill as it makes it so the customer can get *exactly* what they want.

    But most of what I *think* you are talking about I can achieve with any kinds of finish. The current set of wrap coatings I've been experimenting have been extremely "flat" with just enough epoxy of the edge to build up over the thread and make it smooth. This IMO is pretty close to what I've seen on some T&T's. I've looked at T&T's and honestly I still think they are doing multiple coats of Flex Coat, but considering that they have very little variation in their wraps either they train the hell out of everyone to make it look so, or there is something intrinsic in the epoxy formula they are using.

    Thanks for the great discussion about this to date guys!

    -- Cheers
    -- James
  13. What coatings have you been experimenting with? If you've found a very flat, excellent self-leveling finish, I'm intrigued. I haven't found it yet but, as of a couple years ago, U-40 products were as close as they come. But, I've been out of the loop for awhile. I want to start building again, but I'd like to have a nice setup to do it (i.e. drying box and better wrapping setup). I just don't have the time these days to babysit rods with tweezers to pluck out the one remaining speck of dust floating around the room.

    Sorry to jump the original thread...

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