Does this make sense?

Discussion in 'Spey Clave' started by Jordan Simpson, Sep 19, 2012.

  1. Since I'm still pretty new to the whole two-hand game, I'm trying to figure out a line set up that is versatile yet still low-ish in cost.
    Does this make sense:
    reel-->backing-->slickshooter-->head (skagit/scandi)-->tip (floating, inter,etc.)-->leader-->fly.

    Since I can't afford a skagit versatip systerm AND a Scandi Versatip system, would it make sense to have just the two heads (a Skagit and a Scandi) and then the tips?
  2. Almost...substitute leader for 3'-4' of tippet and you're golden. No need for a full length leader.

    Also, I use different tips depending on the skagit or scandi head that I have on. Skagit heads will give you more ability to throw heavier level tips (T-14, etc.); where as with the scandi head, you will not be able to turn over the heavy stuff. I use Polyleaders while fishing my scandi set ups.
    speyfisher and fredaevans like this.
  3. +1 to what Steffan just said.Only thing I'd add is get a shooting line with a 'loop to loop' connector at the business end. That way all you have to do is swap heads, which are a heck of a lot cheaper than a full line.
  4. Another option is to get a line like the Airflo Tactical steelhead head, which comes with a floating tip, that you can remove and use moderate tips with it.

    You do have the option of going with a Skagit head and buying a MOW flating tip (or other floating tip, or making one)

    Another option would be to go with a Scandi head and cutting it back so you can throw tips on it, while keeping the floating tip, looping it yourself, and switching to the floater or tips when needed. That way you dont have to buy a Scandi short Versitip system - which sound very cool but are quite a bit more expensive than a shooting head. But you can get the replacement tips for about 17$ and they are great, and you could get by with 1, maybe 2 instead of all 4.

    In order to do the above you might have to settle for a Skagit head that a little lighter than the status quo or a Scandi that is not exactly light enough to "tip cast"

    Just a few ideas to save money. Unless you are throwing the very heaviest tips and weighted flies that would call for getting the very most out of your setup, either of these ways would work just fine, The moderate skagit and the MOW being the most simple.
  5. Going into winter I'd probably just buy the Skagit and some level material for tips. Then pick up a nice floating Scan head late spring.

    I've got a new Scandi Versa-Tip 6wt.. it's nice for sure but not going to pull it's weight with heavy tips / flies like a Skagit will.

    Coming from a guy who preferrs Scandis.

    speyfisher likes this.
  6. Also, -->leader-->fly-->----------------FISH
  7. Royal Wulff Ambush with integrated running line. Not a skagit or scandi head. More of a in between scandit head. An excellent starter line and very versatile.

  8. Does this make sense? Well, yes & no. Start with the fly and work back. Size & weight of fly will dictate the line/head, including tips.
    Skandi heads taper down to a smaller tip. Therefore, limiting the size sink tip and fly they are capable of casting.
    Skagit heads are capable of turning over heavier tips and flies.
    That's it in a nutshell. But as you'll find out, there is more to it than that. Were it me, since winter is on it's way, I would start with a Skagit head and some T-stuff (MOW tips if you can afford them) set up for sustained anchor casts. This will allow you to fish the larger flies needed when the water starts getting dirty. But,,,give yourself a break and don't go overboard on the big flies! Stick with something more reasonable to start with.
    When the rains are over & the water starts to drop & clear, then you can invest in a Scandi head & appropriate tips for casting the smaller flies.
    Nooksack Mac and fredaevans like this.
  9. +1 to what Jim just said. The key to line choice, which you will seldom see, is you chose the size/type of fly you want to chuck and work back from that point.
  10. This actually makes a lot of sense to me now, starting with the fly and working back.
    I asked this because I don't really steelhead much, but usually fish for bulls in the spring when the Chum fry hatch using small epoxy minnows/fry patterns, and then in the fall/winter with big streamers/zonkers/etc.

    That being said, in the spring, I would probs fish the Scandi, and in the winter, the Skagit...
  11. Mostly, but it depends more on the water. Low & clear= smaller flies. As the water gets colored up, the flies get bigger.
  12. Just wondering:
    On one of my trout spey reels, it is loaded with an Airflo Scandi Compact floating. Can I use the poly-leaders that I have for my Beulah Tonic? The heads are roughly the same weight (Scandi is 300gr, the Tonic is 325gr) and are for my Echo SR4 Switch Rod.
  13. Depends. The tip of the line must be of equal, or greater mass (weight/ft) than that of the butt end of the poly leader. Otherwise it won't turn over. A visual comparison doesn't work because the floating fly line will always be a larger dia than a sinking poly of equal mass. Sometimes, if the difference is not too great and the poly leader is only 5 ft long, you can get by, if the casts are not very long.
  14. +1 to Jim's comment above. Too much difference and you'll get a hinging effect where the two meet. That said, with that light of a head there is an excellent alternative to the normal sink tip .... sinking furler leaders. Light as a feather but sink like a rock with even lightly weighted flies on the business end. If you want to increase the sink rate, just slop on some 'SinkIt.'

    The 'sinkers' are made with Kevlar thread and are super strong and can be made to any length you want (Google Furlgirl, Joni makes the best ones going that I've ever used). The construction does vary based on 'rod weight,' and they come (your call) with just a loop on the end or a tiny ring (that's the one you want!!). All you do is add a run of leader off the end and you're good to go.

    Thing that really helps is as you change out the leader bit as this has zero impact on the furled bit. Do they work? Oh sooo yes, I use them on my 3wt all the way up to my 7wt rods.

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