Drift Boat plans...

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by Riverman, Jun 28, 2009.

  1. randyinpa

    randyinpa New Member

    It's been a long time sence your last post. I hope you read this. I have plans for the canadian and the ozarks boat i'm leaning tward the canadian because of posts saying they got rid of thier small boats for a bigger one. I would definately like to tap your experience building this boat.
     
  2. Riverman

    Riverman Member

    Nice... :thumb:
     
  3. randyinpa

    randyinpa New Member

    I am goimg to start next weekend. i'm going to build the canadian by spira. have everything but the plywood on hand. hope i get some hits from someone who has completed one.

    "Keep fishing load the boat in the dark"
     
  4. Riverman

    Riverman Member

    I really like that Spira Canadian...
     
  5. Rick Sharp

    Rick Sharp Member

    I would go with don hill his plans are truly blueprint type plans and of great detail as well, you can call them anytime for more info they are a great resource and very helpful.
     
  6. ded291

    ded291 New Member

    Thanks Rick. Thought i would elaborate. Don Hill Boats has plans for a traditionally built drift boat with ribs without the need for a strong back. The plans range from 10' mini drifter to 18' fly fisherman. The plans are complete with each part drawn indicating size, angles etc. plus a construction manual and video narrated by Don. Can't beat em!
     
  7. Riverman

    Riverman Member

    Plans received... Now, all I need is time to work on it.
     
  8. themaninthemoon

    themaninthemoon Just waiting on warmer weather, .......

    Ok guys, I have a suggestion for finding the appropriate angle & curvature for the rib problem.
    About 3yrs ago, (no, wait, it's been five years ago, geez, I can't believe it's been that long ago already ?!?).
    Well anyway, I had bought a 12' Sears Gamefisher & a trailer from a guy down the alley, for $200.00, & it had a T-shaped hole in the floor that ran up under one of the rear ribs. So I took a 4" grinder & removed a 1/2 section of the rib about 8" wide, & there it was, exposed.
    To make a long story a little shorter, I epoxied up the hole, & had made the decision to put a level floor in the boat. Figuring that the bench seats were equal to being level with the waterline, I noticed that there was a given height relationship to the bench seats & the waterline marks on the outside of the boat, & there was also a bend in the fold of the side of the hull that followed the same pattern down the length of the hull.
    With that being said, a trip to Menard's (one of the local Do it, Build it yourself stores), was in order. I needed two pieces of 2"x 6"x 6', two pieces of 2"x 4"x 6', 25 pieces of 3' x 3/8ths" dowel rods, two pieces of straight 8'x1"x2", a couple of 2&1/2" screws, with matching wingnuts.

    Upon my return to the garage, I measured the greatest open distance between the rails, then measured the shortest distance,then cut a piece of the 1x2 to match, then I made a duplicate, then slotted the ends so that they could be extended by almost eight inches, more than enough to reach from side to side, whether I was using it in the bow, middle, or aft.

    Now for the good part, I bolted the two short halves to the ends of the two sandwiched pieces of 1x2 with a screw & wingnut on each end, then took a 3/8ths drill bit & started drilling holes 1" apart down the length of the seam of the two halves, then I took the 3' dowel rods, taped them together into a round bunch used my sawzall to cut them in half, doubling my number, into 18" sections. I loosened the wingnuts enough to drive them into the drilled holes, then tightened up the wingnuts to make them movable, but snug enough to stay in place after being tapped with a small hammer.

    Using the two bench seats as a guide to set the distance for the length of boat, I positioned the mimic over each rib & tapped it down just so they touched the top of the rib all the way across the boat. This gave me a pattern to mark the bottom of the 2x4, or 2x6 appropriately marked for the depth, assuring that the floor would follow the marked height as a given.

    It worked like a charm. They make a small wire type that can be used for scribing cabinets to a wall, or used for scribing tile for trim, doorways, etcetera.
     

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