Epoxy and cold weather

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by billylee, Dec 9, 2007.

  1. OK,

    I finally got over my bad back and procrastination long enough to tye up the guides on my 13 FT Batson spey blank. Alas, it's winter and my garage is damn cold. Should I try epoxying the threads in the garage and just let them turn longer or do I really need to bring them into the house to cure right. I'm using standard flex coat stuff.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. I don't know how temperature effects drying time (I'd guess lower = slower), but it's recommended to warm the component liquids before combining them (4-5 minutes at the low setting works in my microwave, with the caps open). I'd bring the drying rack (or for much better results, a motor-powered rotary setup) into the house. Apply the finish last thing at night; it should be dry as you drink your coffee and V-8 juice in the morning. If you use a non-powered drying rack, start at least four hours before bedtime, turning the blank sections about 120 degrees every fifteen minutes.
  3. I don't recommend heating finishes, except for resin that has crystallized. Never heat hardner. In colder weather expect it too take quite a bit longer to cure. If Everett is close enough to you I'll epoxy your threads in my drying room for no charge.

  4. At these daily temps, expect it to set up over days, not hours. The closer to 70 the better. If you are pressed though, you can jury rig a heated "box" using a couple of lamps and an old colored shower curtain. It'll keep it kinda warm, so that should set much faster.
  5. I don't have much to add to the great advice given above. I have the same problem with cold temps in my garage; plus, I live on the coast so the humidity is always really high. I recently switched to using Permagloss because I was told it works better in a humid environment. I have been happy with the results, so far. It's a lot easier than epoxy (for me) and I prefer a very slim profile on my wraps.
  6. I'd check w/ the mfg for temp guidlines. Better to do it right the first time. I know with the epoxy I used to build my boat, the temp had to be at least 60 deg. f. to set up properly and allow the chemical reaction to take place correctly for the ultimate bond. Also, if the surface is cold when the epoxy starts to heat up you may have an increase in bubbles (outgassing)... on second thought that last statement might be a load of crap but it doesn't hurt to ask about it... its one of those "seem to recall" moments...

    If your bound to the garage, try using am electric/oil radiater heater ($20) and a fan to circulate warm air around the workbench. In the dead of winter with outside temps in the low 40's, I was able to get my 2 car garage just above 65 after a night of heating. If thats not enough, buy a couple large plastic painting drop cloths and create a curtain around the work area. You will be surprise how warm you can get the area. Stay away from prop or kerosene heaters or heaters with open elements (for obvious fire hazard reasons) and because the byproduct of combustion will interfere with cross linking of the epoxy...
  7. Many thanks to everyone. It seems I'll be trying to talk the wife into bringing the whole rig inside for a couple of nights. I'll have to give it some thoughts with the fumes and all.

    Scott, thanks for the offer. I'm in Oly though. I'd drive that far to fish but alas, not to dry the rod.

    I'll remember to post my results.

    Also, since I'm shamelessly promoting my blog in an effort to gain enough comments to be motivated to keep writing, there is an article (somewhat old) on the darn thing and how I recovered from a busted cork lower grip. See http://fourjacksons.us/messyflies if you want to know more....

  8. 2 part finishes shouldn't have a whole lot of fumes in general. If it's permagloss that you're using, it cures in the presence of moisture and isn't as temp critical.

    Also, after reading your blog, I would highly suggest the use of fibreglass tape with epoxy instead of masking tape for future reel seat work. It's cheap, and unlike masking tape, waterproof.
  9. In the house is better. The rule of thumb for such things is cure time doubles for every 10 deg. C drop in temp. That is about 18 deg F.

    DuraGloss has a mid 70's gel time of 6hr, tack time of 24 hours, and full cure time of 5 days. At 60 it goes to 12, 48, 10 days. Drop to low 40's and its 1 day, 2 days, 20 days. At current Everett temps its about 3 days to stop collecting dust and a month before its ready for the rivers.

    Inside is better.

  10. Another vote for inside. I usually set up a room as a finishing room (even if it's just temporary), open the heat register to get the room warm, and it should work out well. Plus, you can keep traffic in and out of the room at a minimum to keep dust from being stirred up. I haven't found the fumes from rod building epoxies to be that bad.
  11. Some cure/temp stats posted on RodBuilding.org:


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