Epoxy for Rod Building

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by Jay Allyn, Jan 9, 2004.

  1. Jay Allyn

    Jay Allyn The Poor-Student Fly Fisher

    Another thread got me thinking. What is the best epoxy for rod building? Could you use 5 Minute Epoxy? Or is there something better to use?
     
  2. sean

    sean Member

    For what part of the rod?

    You can use 5 minute for putting on the reel seat but it would be disasterous for thread wraps. You need a longer curing epoxy.

    For thread wraps I am quite fond of the LS Supreme by Trondak. Releases bubbles well and goes on great. Usually do a very thin coat first and follow it up with a little thicker second coat. It stays workable for about 45 minutes which is nice in case you need to go back and fix a screw up.

    -sean
     
  3. ffb

    ffb Resident Foo

    You'll need at least 2 different types of epoxies. I use Flex-Coat High Build for coating the thread wraps, but use 2 thin coats instead of one heavy coat. 5-minute epoxy could work for glueing on the handle and reel seat, but isn't as permanent as other methods, and could cause some problems. A better choice would be a slow cure epoxy, or rod bond. I use Rod Bond for glueing the reel seat and handle to the blank, because it almost has a paste consistancy, which helps avoid epoxy running and dripping all over the place. To glue the tip top to the top of the rod, you can use 5-minute epoxy, but I recommend flex coat tip top adhesive, it's a type of hot glue that melts at a higher temperature, it's easier and faster to apply the tip top, and makes it much easier to remove the tip top if the need arises. Good luck, rod building is a hoot. :thumb

    Check out http://www.rodbuilding.org and read some of the old posts. You'll get a ton of good information out of it, plus if you have more questions, there are a lot of really good rod builders there who are eager to answer questions.
     
  4. windtickler

    windtickler Member

    The Golden Witch site recommends Varathane for thread wraps. Anybody ever try that?
     
  5. ffb

    ffb Resident Foo

    Varathane or other types of one part varnishes are usually used on bamboo rods, but some people use them on graphite rods too. The disadvantage of varnishes is that they take many coats to get a nice smooth finish, anywhere from 4 coats up to around 8. The advantage that I've heard is that it is supposed to be tougher than the normal 2-part epoxies.
     
  6. Gregory Paul

    Gregory Paul New Member

    Hello,I don't know if your talking grafite or bamboo but all my experiance has been with bamboo rod building.My first two rods I built I used devcon 5 Minute Epoxy on the ferrules, reelseets, and butt caps and wound up reglueing one female ferrule and cap.I spoke with a fellow rod builder with many years of experiance who recomments Golfsmiths shafting epoxy on the ferrules, and stated devcon would be fine for the reelseets. Good luck.
    P.S. surface prep is extremly important, all mateing surfaces must be thoughly cleaned and degreased,also scuffing the two surfaces to give the epoxy a good bite is a must.
     
  7. Rob Blomquist

    Rob Blomquist Formerly Tight Loops

    I also use LS Supreme for thread wraps, it is the best there is. If anyone recommends anything else, they have never used LS Supreme. Use syringes to measure it out! The absolute accuracy is a must.

    I use Trondak Rod Bond Epoxy for gluing the handle and reelseat onto the rod. This is a very thick, slow curing epoxy with high strength.

    I use 5 minute Z-Poxy for gluing on the tiptop, or building up reel seats, if necessary. Its an easy to use general epoxy with good strength.

    As to lacquers and Varathane, they were used back in the 70s for finishing rods, but were eclipsed by the epoxies, which are far superior.

    Rob
     
  8. ffb

    ffb Resident Foo

    You're right, I've never used LS Supreme. I started out using Flex-coat, and will keep using it until I find a problem with it. For me it's easy to use, and in my case, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
     
  9. IveofIone

    IveofIone Active Member

    I will vote for Flex-Coat also. I have never had a problem with it. I heard all the raves about LS Supreme so I tried it and had to start over. I am meticulous about measurement and expected perfection but it didn't happen so back to Flex-Coat. I'll dance with the gal that brung me, Ive
     
  10. wet line

    wet line New Member

    epoxy sucks
     
  11. Tom Bowden

    Tom Bowden Active Member

    Varathane 900 is good for wraps because it distorts the thread color less than other varnishes or epoxies. Most bamboo rodmakers don't use color preservers, because we want the varnish to soak into the wraps & really secure the guides.

    Tom
     
  12. ceviche

    ceviche Active Member

    Speaking as one who has been occupationally exposed to epoxy paint systems, be sure to use the stuff in a very well ventilated space. The epoxy is nasty. Over time, you will eventually develope an allergy to it. If at all possible, protect yourself from exposure by wearing gloves and using the correct chemical filtering respirator mask. I believe the type that eliminates amides and ammonia related vapors is the one to use. If you fail to do this, you will eventually make yourself quite ill and will have to quit making rods or otherwise find yourself near curing epoxies. :rofl Sorry about the bad news, guys. :professor
     
  13. Roper

    Roper Idiot Savant

    As far as I'm concerned, Rod Bond for bonding reel seats, building and attaching cork grips, and tip tops.
    For wrap epoxy I use LS Supreme, it gives me nice smooth results and wears like iron.

    The suggestion about ventilation is a good one to heed. Once you get sensitized to a chemical it only gets worse with time.

    Roper,

    Good things come to those who wade...
     
  14. nomlasder

    nomlasder Active Member

    Check out systemthree.com, they are local and make good goo