How much Coat-it will i need for my beat up old driftboat?

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by northidaho, Apr 25, 2013.

  1. northidaho

    northidaho New Member

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    Anyone have experience with this stuff? I wanna coat the bottom and about 4 inchs up the sides on a older 16 foot Drift boat i bought. Would a 8lb kit be enough or should i buy more ? Thanks in advance ! =)
     
  2. WABOWMAN

    WABOWMAN Active Member

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    Where did you find it?
     
  3. northidaho

    northidaho New Member

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    The coat-it? Or the boat?
     
  4. Patrick Gould

    Patrick Gould Active Member

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    I'm a wooden boat builder. That's not a product that's commonly used in the greater boat building world. I'm not sure if it's good stuff or not, it's just not something that I have experience with. I do, however use lots of epoxy with a graphite additive. It's great for adding durability to the bottom of the boat. It's not something that I would use to stop leaks though. For a 16' I would start out with a gallon and a half and go from there. Expect some serious sanding and fairing.
     
  5. Jim Wallace

    Jim Wallace Smells like low tide

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    Patrick, I think that Coat-It is an epoxy and graphite product.
    Do you know if epoxy/graphite can be applied over old gel-coat, if I fill in the pukas and deeper scratches before I prep-sand the hull?
    I was thinking of doing that to the bottom of my glass mini-drifter.
     
  6. Patrick Gould

    Patrick Gould Active Member

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    I guess my reply was confusing. I meant to convey that I haven't used the particular product, but the concept of epoxy with graphite is standard.

    You can do the epoxy/graphite over the gel-coat, but you'll need a barrier coat first. Interlux or Pettit are good brands of barrier. Any decent marine store will have it.
     
  7. northidaho

    northidaho New Member

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    I saw a older glass boat with a layer of it on the bottom the owner told me he just sanded the old gel coat down a bit and it stuck to it just fine. And everything I read said the same. I think ill start with the 8lb kit and see if its enough. I found it on this website called creativewholesale and its on sale for 40% off at the moment. Home Depot also sell its but you have to order off the website in 2 packs they woulnt let u order just one for some reason. The coat it is epoxy graphite and Kevlar mix .
     
  8. Frank R

    Frank R Member

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    I would be cautious about any water-based epoxy products.

    I epoxy coated my garage floor last year. In doing my research I read reviews on the kits available at the big box stores. There were a lot of claims of it peeling up after a short while. I went with an industrial/commercial epoxy coating instead.
     
  9. Patrick Gould

    Patrick Gould Active Member

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    Sanding will give you a good mechanical bond, give it a try. It'll definitely give you at least a few years. If I were doing it for a customer I would use a barrier coat.
     
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  10. Rick Todd

    Rick Todd Active Member

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    I have a wooden drift boat (Ray's River Dory kit) and every couple years I flip it over, fill holes with West System epoxy mixed with micro fibers to a putty consistency. Then I go over it with a belt sander and then roll on 3 or 4 coats of WEST mixed with graphite powder with a foam roller. Very durable and easy to do! Rick
     
  11. Fleshfly

    Fleshfly New Member

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    Be advised that Coat-It or Glove-It are going to create an ongoing maintenance issue as the stuff doesn't last more than a year or two depending on usage. Some guides end up reapplying it 2-3 times a year. If you can wait a short time there is a new silicon epoxy product that I just heard about that's suppose to be much slipperier than either of the two previously mentioned products and outlast them 5-1. I believe you be able to either have the new distributor install it or buy the product and do it yourself. I'll see if I can find the name of the distributor and post a new response.
     
  12. northidaho

    northidaho New Member

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    Oh ya I sanded most of the old gel coat it was pretty bare already ,
    I'm not to worried on how it looks just wanna cover the bare glass on the bottom.
     
  13. Jim Wallace

    Jim Wallace Smells like low tide

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    Thanks. I am going to go the cheaper route and just fill in the pukas and sand the bottom for a good mechanical bond.
     
  14. Mark Yoshida

    Mark Yoshida Active Member

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    I covered the bottom of my 8' alum pram and needed 2 cans of the 2-lb kits. That was a very thin coating on the bottom and I had to roll it out. Although expensive its a great product in my opinion.
    http://www.tapplastics.com/product/fiberglass/epoxy_resins/coat_it_epoxy_sealer_with_kevlar/30
    Coat-It Epoxy Sealer with Kevlar®

    A waterproof epoxy sealer for aluminum, steel, fiberglass, wood, and concrete. Apply with brush, roller, or squeegee. The 10 mil prime coat is flexible and non-shrinking in one application. Pot life of 30 minutes. Cure time: 10 hours @ 70°F. Use above or below the water line. Use with or without fiberglass reinforcement. Coat leaky ponds (cement or fiberglass). It creates a hard black surface that is scratch-resistant and durable.

    • 2 lb kit covers approximately 20 sq ft.
    • 8 lb kit covers approximately 80 sq ft.
     
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  15. Jerry Daschofsky

    Jerry Daschofsky Moderator Staff Member

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    Ok, why are you putting it on a glass boat? Re gel coat it instead. That stuff was meant mostly for sticky aluminum boats. Makes them glide like a glass boat does. But if it's a glass boat use gel coat to match boat.

    Most marine stores carry it. I know Sportco does too and think they will ship. But imho make the glass boat while again with gel coat.
     
  16. NIrodneck

    NIrodneck Member

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    I just finished doing a old aluminum 17' drift boat with the 8lb kit. Just the right amount to redo the entire bottom. Easy to use and apply.
     
  17. Jim Wallace

    Jim Wallace Smells like low tide

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    Short answer:
    The dude I know who does gel-coat refinishing charges $40/hour, and I don't think he's that fast at it. He told me that a gel coat can't be repaired by just filling in the pukas and scratches, but that the whole thing (entire exterior of the hull) would have to be sanded down to the sanding coat and then completely refinished. I don't buy into that explanation, and the price is too high.

    I figure I can fill in the pukas and deep scratches that are on the bottom, then sand the gel-coat enough to rough the entire surface of the bottom so I can get a good mechanical bond with the Coat-it. This is intended for the bottom only, with a tape line at the chines.
    I already have a kit of the stuff in my shop, that I picked up a couple of years ago and was going to use on an aluminum canoe. I scrapped that project, and I need to use the Coat-It before it gets too old.

    This boat doesn't need to look cosmetically good. Its only a well-used Don Hill mini-drifter.
     
  18. papafsh

    papafsh Piscatorial predilection

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    Jim, I'd be interested in seeing some pics. I've been wanting to do the bottom of my old 16ft wood DB, we think it's an old Don Hill, but it has that heavy plactic/nylon? bottom attached right now. Want to take that off and re-finish with "Coat-it" or similar product.

    LB
     
  19. Jim Wallace

    Jim Wallace Smells like low tide

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    papafish, mine is just a plain-jane basic model mini-drifter, a fiberglass hull with those rolled edges, finished in gray gel coat. I'm going to be doing some other repairs and improvements to it, too. I hope to get it all done before Sept, but I am juggling a bunch of projects and priorities right now.
    After I fill in the dings and scratches, I am just going to sand the bottom, mask along the chines, and then apply the Coat-it. If I want to extend the Coat-it a couple of inches up above the chine, I'll do that with a second application, with the hull right-side up, and masking tape along the bottom of the chines, so that I get a good solid edge right along the chine line. I'm considering how gravity affects thickness flow on a sloping or vertical surface, and that should result in a thicker coating right along the chine. Precision masking should produce a nice even seam that can be sanded fair.

    I'll take some pics when I do it.
     

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