I received some fly rods, need help with info please.

Discussion in 'Bamboo, Fiberglass & Classic Reels' started by Alexander, Feb 7, 2014.

  1. I received some fly rods today some bamboo and one glass. I have little knowledge in this field and was wondering if anyone here could lend a hand. On a few things.

    Rod worth (Is it worth something in the sense of collectors item or does it not have much $$ value?)
    Line Weight
    Rod use (one of them has an extra tip but it's different)

    First is a pic of all the rods I took delivery of today, only 3 of them appear to be fly rods, 3 light spinning rods and 5 pretty beefy rods 3 glass 2 bamboo. However since this is an FF forum I'll only ask help with the fly rods. If anyone wishes to help with the others let me know, those beefy bamboo rods are stout! Anyway, here we go.

    Pic of all the rods

    Next: Gladding South Bend Outdoorsman, Action Tested fiberglass Made in the U.S.A 1-432-286 8'6". I searched online but have no idea how to ID that string of numbers other than the rod length. Trying to find out the weight of this rod. What little I've found seems to say it's a 6wt, but that rod looked slightly different. Is it worth anything? I'm clueless, it looks cheap, but maybe because it's older it has added value? :D
    Here a link to more images of that rod
    <iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s28.photobucket.com/user/LoneTreeGuy/embed/slideshow/Gladding South Bend Glass 1-432-286"></iframe>

    Here a Milward Bamboo fly rod measured at 9'2" with a funny extra tip, shorter than the other one and with a different tip-top. I figure a dual purpose rod.
    And here a link to more images
    <iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s28.photobucket.com/user/LoneTreeGuy/embed/slideshow/Milward Bamboo"></iframe>

    Here an Allcocks Popular Fly Rod Made in England measuring at 9'1"
    And here a link to more images
    <iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s28.photobucket.com/user/LoneTreeGuy/embed/slideshow/Allcocks Popular Bamboo"></iframe>

    Please let me know what you think or know about these rods or if you have links to websites with info.
    Thanks a bunch.

  2. Both bamboo rods are English, I'd guesstimate '30s-40s. Both rods have short tip sections with funky non fly rod replacement tip tops. They look like the bamboo is in decent shape as far as I can see in the pics. Line weights for both are 6-8 wts or at least start there to cast with. The Allcocks could make a nice heavy trout rod with adding more snake guides with modern graphite spacing. I have 30 bamboo rods that I really enjoy fishing with! Careful though Alexander.....next you'll need a classic vintage Hardy to hang on the bamboo!!---Steve
    Kent Lufkin, Tom Bowden and Alexander like this.
  3. Do I need to treat these rods with anything to keep them in good shape or to recondition them? If I rebuild one of them (the one with the raggedy wraps) should I sand them off? Should I sand and refinish the whole rod and then throw on some modern guides? Friggin rods aren't light... I hope they roll cast well ;)
  4. That or they'll just become wall ornaments.
  5. There are lots of different ways to refinish rods, this is what works for me:

    Remove the guides and sand off the existing varnish, except leave all decals and markings intact. Before wrapping on new guides, apply several rub-on coats of Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil, which is available at gun shops. Wrapping guides is actually easier on bamboo rods vs. graphite, because you're dealing with flat surfaces rather than circular. As Steve suggests, use modern guides and spacing rather than the original, as this will really improve the rod. Apply 3-4 coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane varnish to the wraps. Don't use epoxy. Once the varnish on the guide wraps is dry, apply a single coat of varnish to the entire rod. The best way to do this is with a dip-tube, but you can get a nice finish by applying direct to the rod with a small brush or your fingers.

    If this sounds like fun, go for it.....

  6. When Tom speaks....I listen! Tom really knows his stuff! I still finish all my cane with another method Tom shared with me years ago. I strip all the guides and varnish off, then "sand" with 0000 steel wool, wipe clean with isopropyl alcohol, rub on a coat of Daly's tung oil and let sit for 15-20 minutes. Wipe the blank down and repeat all steps for seven days. Then I wrap the guides with A sized nylon thread, apply a thin coat of Flex Coat epoxy to the wraps and let that cure. A few days later, buff a couple of coats of Birchwood Casey's gun stock wax, this gives the rod a nice satin finish without any hassles. Then...attach a Hardy, tie on a fly and go catch some trout in "classic style!!" Let me know if you need any help or have any questions, glad to help.---Steve
    Alexander likes this.
  7. If those spin rods are at least seven feet I'd convert them to fly rods. Be fun. I am doing that now with an old Shakespeare spinning rod. It throws a five line just fine. The Gladding is worth very little. Can't tell if it is solid fiberglass? If it is solid then it has use as spigot material for rod builders.
  8. It's hollow. Maybe i'll give it a shot with my 5 and 6wt line and see what happens, i'll report back next weekend just for fun.
  9. Steve, I saw how quickly you recognized the bamboo rods. I have an old Hardy (1926) in great condition except that it's missing the eye on the butt section. Can you recommend a builder/restorer specializing in finding original parts. Thanks, Ray
  10. Hey Ray, off hand I'm not sure where to look....let me check and see if I can find some info. I wonder if your Hardy had a small agate/agatine stripper? I have some stock of vintage snakes as do some of my bamboo buddies. Maybe we can match something up.---Steve
  11. Thanks, I can try to send some pictures when needed. The existing eyes are like none I've seen, small, oval, brass?, and angling diagonally along the shaft. Thanks again, Ray
  12. Ray, another thing is take a look at "Classicflyrodforum" lots of very knowledgeable folks there about bamboo rods. You might even see your rod on a post. Check it out.
  13. Sounds like a trumpet style guide. Quite common on vintage English rods. I haven't seen any reproduction guides, maybe find some used or NOS somebody has.
  14. I've been varnishing for 20 years (classic boats) and I'm intrigued by your method. Specifically, what is a dip tube? It sounds self explanatory, but maybe not.
  15. Yeh, I registered with them a few months ago but forgot the user name I used. I've tried to login and email them but no luck. I read that they changed something on the site and say to register again if you haven't posted with them, but I get a message from my computer that it can't perform that function.
  16. Patrick,
    I varnished a rod earlier this week and have a couple more in the que. I don't know if you can see it from the photo, but the center tube is filled with spar varnish. In the back there is a slow rpm motor attached to a small drum. Stout string is wound around the drum and through some pulleys to slowly pull the rod section from the varnish. Once you get the withdrawal rate balanced with the viscosity of the varnish the process is pretty straight foreword. Rods come out without runs or brush marks with a beautiful glossy finish. image.jpg image.jpg
  17. My dip tube is a simple 1-1/2" PVC tube that sits on a wood support I made. I'm fortunate to have a 12' ceiling in my garage, providing enough room for the tube and rod section, which hangs from a hook on the ceiling. If you don't have a tall ceiling, you need to dig a hole under your floor for the dip tube. I use an extraction motor built by a rod maker friend in Tennessee. You can extract the rod manually or using an old fly reel, but a low-RPM motor provides a much better finish.

    I learned my system from a discussion I had with a well-known East Coast rod maker. The initial coats of rubbed on tru-oil seal up the gaps and pores, and the final dip-coat protects the rod from moisture. Tru-oil is a special boiled linseed oil that's used on gun stocks. I finished some rods years ago with just Tru-oil, and found they absorbed water on rainy days.

    The "standard" way to varnish a rod is to dip it 3 times in varnish, sanding between coats. The first 2 coats fill gaps and pores in the wood, with the final coat providing surface protection.by brushing or spraying. There are lots of other methods you can use to finish rods, including wipe-on polyurethanes, tung oil, or applying varnish with a brush or spray can. Dawn Holbrook's class manual instructed you to apply 3 coats of spar varnish with your fingers, hanging the rod overnight in your bathroom.

    No matter what process you use, the keys to a good finish are to sand the blank with light-grain sandpaper, sand carefully between coats, and hang the rod in a dust-free place after applying varnish.

    Hope this helps.


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