Ideas for your ultimate pontoon boat

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by TylorStrand, Sep 27, 2008.

  1. TylorStrand

    TylorStrand New Member

    Ok lets just say I may be starting a local company building one to tree person pontoon boats. I am calling out to the public to PM me some of your thoughts on what you think would be the most ultimate pontoon boat. There are a lot of different aspects I am considering and I have designed about a dozen different water crafts that I consider could be the best in the biz. I would like the salt, freshwater, river, guys/gals It does not matter what kind of water you fish, just your ideal boat. Now I am not going to just TAKE from the ones who give out their thoughts. I am going to lend out a few, and hopefully get a few, about half a dozen on the gear program. Those that make it through the gear program are going to be given away to the guys/gals who help me out with my R and D the most. Now this is not going to be a quick free way to get a watercraft. A lot of R and D will go into making a sound and very safe watercraft so my goal date on a line of pontoon boats is set for next April 2009. So with your help lets see if we can get some boats afloat and making it more enjoyable and efficient to laying our line down.

    Thank you
    Tylor Strand
  2. airbornemike

    airbornemike New Member

    I like Scaddens new 13' Outlaw design, I'm considering this for are midwestern rivers
  3. Kim Hampton

    Kim Hampton Not Politically Correct

    I got an Outcast a few years ago which was supposed to be one of the better ones at the time. The seat kills my ass and back. Come up with a decent seat or get ideas of what is comfortable. Some sort of method to be able to stand and cast would be great also.
  4. wolverine

    wolverine Member

    I've had 3 toons and none of them really worked in the salt. The components have just not been up to the requirements. Even with thorough cleanings the metals just corroded. I don't think that anyone has really made an attempt to make a saltwater toon.
  5. TylorStrand

    TylorStrand New Member

    Well for my ventures I really want to make a solid boat that will handle the salt. I have been welding for about five years in the fish processing industry and i know all about salt, it really is a nasty thing but if you fish it a lot maybe you can be one of my test subjects.
  6. speyfisher

    speyfisher Active Member

    Bucks Bag Bronco extreme has a stainless steel frame. Better (IMHO) than powder coated alum in the salt. But it is heavy. How about a composite frame? Oars, oarlocks, & bushings on most toons usually leave a little to be desired. Tubes? When someone (Scadden) says bladderless are gaurenteed for life, they got my attention. Although the bladder types (again Scadden) are gaurenteed for fifteen years. Which is probably longer than any of us will own one.
  7. Norm Frechette

    Norm Frechette Googlemeister

    what kind of coatings on the framework are you gonna use for the salt??
  8. jbrodie

    jbrodie New Member

    I have a PAC 800, it is light, tough and of good quality. The thing I do not like is that the only adjustment is the seat forward and back. I would like foot adjustments forward and back as well as a couple of oarlock locations.
  9. P.Dieter

    P.Dieter Just Another Bubba

    I don't think there is an ultimate design...every thing's a trade off. low and compact not so good for the white water, large dia, long toons too much wind drag and hard to fin. big and strong, too hard to cart around.

    better to focus on a few different designs that work perfectly in specific applications then search for that one size fits all design...not that "a crossover boat" isn't a real good idea too.

    things I do like:
    shallow draft
    good tracking
    easy to move with just fins
    standing platform
    flat stackable frames
    good forward pullied anchor system
    adjustable footrests
    canted oarlocks
    rear deck for my dog
    good valves
  10. Krystoff

    Krystoff Member

    What about using a composite material for the salt? I saw a car show that showed a guy using composites for the body that was stonger than steel and because it was composite it wouldn't rust.

    For the life of me I can't remember the name of the show but I will keep looking for it.
  11. Wet Wade

    Wet Wade New Member

    Here's what I'd like for MT rivers (Yellowstone, Madison, Jefferson, Big Hole, Big Mo, Gallatin, Beaverhead,):

    #1 - 2 person + a spot behind the rower for a dog (she goes everywhere with me).

    #2 - Mesh netting between the pontoons (running the length of the pontoons) so stuff/rods/people/dogs don't fall into the water and so the rower can stand up, move around, scope upcoming water, etc.

    #3 - Built in dry storage. Strapping dry bags off the side for a multi-day trip is fine but for day floats a built in spot for a jacket and some gear would be nice.

    #4 - Light weight. There's so much water I'd like to access if only I had a boat 2 people could portage with less effort than say a raft.

    #5 - A good anchor system.

    #6 - A trolling motor mount.

    #7 - A real frame that's adjustable, not a cheap steel frame held together with c-clips. In the 90's I had an aluminum frame for my raft that I got from NRS, it kicked butt. Everything was adjustable with one 1/2 socket or a pair of pliers. The oar locks were adjustable fore/aft and could be pivoted in and out, the rowers seat and foot brace could be adjust fore/aft, etc.

    #8 - Rod storage. 2 people usually have 2 rods each (dry, nymph, streamer, in case one breaks, etc). I'd be nice to not have to worry about dropping your rod in the water when changing flies and have a back up ready to go at a moments notice.

    #9 - A manageable length for 2 people. Sometimes less is more. 11' to 12' sounds like a good length? Need something big enough to be safe in squirrely water yet small enough to carry a couple hundred yards.

    I guess what I'm asking for is a smaller version of my 16LP Clacka but with pontoons and a mesh floor.
  12. Runejl

    Runejl Josh

    I like the idea of being able to stand and fish, but I wouldnt buy a pontoon boat if it had a permanent floor because I like to be able to use my fins in the lake a keep a rod in my hand. Trolling with the oars and having to grab the rod out of the holder isnt as much fun as feeling the take.
  13. jcalderon

    jcalderon Member

    something made to order in sizes would be nice..... At 6'4 and 290 lbs, i should not be forced to row the same toon as my 5'8 buddies!

    Tyler give me a call, I have some interesting software access that can help you design a toon before you build it!
  14. TylorStrand

    TylorStrand New Member

    Wow guys the feed back is great! keep it commin please the more the better, I have great ideas, things I have not seen, but you guys are opening up alot more thanks I cant wait to start building!
  15. Jerry Daschofsky

    Jerry Daschofsky Moderator Staff Member

    You won't find the perfect boat. I've been running catarafts since 1987. I've had many custom frames built, mostly whitewater. But a few fishing (and looking to have more built). There's no "perfect" one, that's for sure. They all have their pluses and minuses. Depending on what you want the boat to do. A boat that is designed to be maneuverable won't be very nice to stand on from the tube design (full rocker). But a solid flat hulled will make standing and fishing easier, but you'll lose maneuverability because you'll have more boat in the water. Frames are hear or there. Depending on if you want durability or not. If you run rivers, you want something that'll take a hit and keep you on the water (not in it). But for lakes and such, you can get by with other materials.

    I'd like to add. The reason you won't find pontoon manufacturers designing them for the saltwater because they're not designed for it! They do not have a hull designed to cut water. They were designed to flow with river currents. Not saying you can't use them for it, I have myself. But doubt they're going to go too much into that, since the market probably isn't there for most of the boats they sell (the lower end which ARE NOT designed to stand up in). You can get by easier with a small pram or little V hulled boat pretty cheap and row yourself for REAL around (and they'll cut water too and no waders needed).

    I'd help out for sure TylorStrand. My frame maker went big time years ago. Am looking for frames to be built eventually. I'd only want frames built, I'd supply my own tubes. But could give you some insight on frames. But will say, you should just do a custom frame setup. As in, per customer design scenerio. You won't find the perfect boat to build that'll please everyone. But you can build the perfect boat for each customer (if they truly know what they want that is lol).
  16. ak_powder_monkey

    ak_powder_monkey Proud to Be Alaskan

    A watermaster with the portability of a alpaca
  17. Runejl

    Runejl Josh

    ak powder. It is being worked on. Going to be just a couple years.
  18. Ed Call

    Ed Call Mumbling Moderator Staff Member

    How about that composite frame, already mentioned a few times, but a good idea. Even if made out of straight butted tubes they would be light as hell, strong and corrosion resistant.

    About that uncomfortable seat, find a comfy one, and one that can be adjusted fore and aft with a lever beneath to slide a bit fore or aft to adjust quickly for differning loads on different trips in a tool free manner. We're talking 3 to 6 inches in most cases which would do the trick to balance the load or lack of load.

    Now make that seat one that flips rearward easily to allow the user to stand on the casting platform beneath the seat assembly, or make one that has a seat that could elevate quite a bit. Getting upright sure makes me think I can more accurately fish the water I'm targeting when in calm winds and still water. This would allow a fixed permanent platform beneath the seat that still does not intefere with seated fin use.

    The design should permit ease in storage as well as hauling. A quick connect/disconnect system that allows a flat frame to be car topped with an alternate connection location that permits the toons (shallow draft or round styles, you should design with both for different uses and tracking needs) to be attached atop the frame to narrow the boat enough to car top on most vehicles easily. You could also design a trailer hitch rack carrying system that your design integrates into for ease and portability. Then I could trailer hitch mount one for me and car top the other for my buddy and still make a nice float trip in one rig.

    I know my valves are not the greatest on my outcast, but they work great for me, don't compromise in the details. I think there are a ton of great ideas here, I look forward to hearing about progress. Let me know if you need another test victim, I'll have my PFD standing by and I promise to fish the hell out of it, beat the hell out of it and keep you posted on your success.
  19. Guy Gregory

    Guy Gregory Active Member

    Wet wade has about what I need for his and other inland rivers. For a drift boat replacement, I'd like a solid floor that drains (I thought about wooden gratings)...fabric is too springy, homemade aluminum floors seem OK but I always worry about chafe.
    I would like a third person up in back. And the ability to slide the forward rower forward to balance the boat better when you put that third person on.
    Good access to scotty rodholders
    a skookum aft anchor system, marine quality stuff.
    Maybe a place to hang a depthsounder/fishfinder sending unit, and a place to mount the unit where the rower can see it?

    a solid place to hook on to and pull it up on the trailer (or drag it up to the road with a winch) would be nice
    AIRE or other skookum tubes, but these double wide-low profile tube shapes seem like they might cheat the wind a bit. Probably a trade off in terms of rower height.

    For a single, I'd like one about 10' long so I can take my dog, with a fairly stiff rear deck, seat adjustable fore and aft for balance, and padeyes for bungee cording coolers and stuff on it. I like the stainless frame on my southfork, again, a good marine quality anchor system would be nice kind of like the one I built. How about a place to hang my beer? Decent rocker for whitewater.

    Oh, and enough with these kiddy-boat oars. Equip the thing with real oars of the right length, please.

    Good luck!
  20. ak_powder_monkey

    ak_powder_monkey Proud to Be Alaskan

    Thats good to hear :thumb:

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