Intermediate lines!

Discussion in 'Stillwater' started by WA-Fly, Oct 21, 2012.

  1. I have fallen in love with intermediate lines. It started at cabelas today just looking around and spotted the new prestige plus clear type one sinking line, at $30 I couldn't turn it down. Went out and it casts like a dream. I fished a scud and caught some awesome fish, I love the depth control. A friend of mine always uses small nymphs and scuds on an intermediate and is constantly catching fish left and right.(part of what motivated me to buy it) But now I see why they are so popular I think anyone who doesn't want to spend the money for the SA or Rio line should pick up the the cabelas prestige intermediate. Great stuff!!!
  2. The line isn't available online I was looking at lines this morning and just checked a minute ago there is nothing about it online must be regional.
  3. Thanks for the recommendations. I've been reading a lot about intermediate lines for stillwater. I'm still learning the lake game, so I apologize in advance for the newbie question.

    Do people usually have a separate reel for stillwater weighted lines, or do you just purchase an extra spool to swap in and out on your reel?

    I only own one rod and reel (9' 5 weight) currently, so am curious how other folks play the swap game.
  4. I started fly fishing 2 years ago, and I am sure you will head down the same path as me... You will end up buying a spare spool for the your current reel (first logical step), and decide that it is too much hastle to string up a rod while fishing, and you will buy another rod (4 wt or 6wt). Please note, this process will continue for all the various line wts until you have quite an arsenal of equipment (rod, reels, line). I have come to realize that buying fly fishing equipment is as addictive as fly fishing, and your near term goals become "catching a fish on your new rod, new reel, new line etc..."
    mbowers, jjcheng, Irafly and 2 others like this.
  5. I also picked up one of those Cabelas $30 type-1 clear intermediates in a 4 wt. Its sinks a bit slower than my type-2 Cortland Clear Camo, but casts and shoots nicely. I can be patient, at less than half the price.

    When lake fishing, lately I have been carrying three fully rigged rods. Up until now, I had 2 6 wts, one rigged with a clear intermediate full-sinker, and the other with a type-3 full sinker. Had my 9' 4wt rigged with a floater.

    But since I can cast a bit farther with my 6 wt, especially if there is a breeze, and those dang risers keep moving away from my boat as I attempt to glide closer to them, I am going to be swapping a 6 wt over to a floating line and my 4 wt to a clear intermediate.
  6. I keep as many rods strung as the situation calls for. I hate swapping spools on the water, though at the rig it's no big deal. This time of year as the fish sneak into the shallows all I use is a clear intermediate.
  7. A lake I often fish during the winter months is less than 30' deep. I usually fish it in less than 20', so i'm using either my type-3 or my clear intermediate.
    But the line I'm most often using is my clear intermediate sinker.
  8. I also picked up a similar $30 deal on a clear-intermediate 12' sinktip in 5 wt.. It casts and shoots very nicely on my fast-action 9' 4wt, but the tip is also a type-1, so it doesn't sink very fast in moving waters, where I mainly use it. However, it worked fine for coastal cutts in a local river with fluorocarbon leader swinging a conehead sculpin pattern into and along a seam bordering the softer water.

    Oops. This line is 5 wt, not 4 wt. Got it because the 4 wts were sold out.

    Crawled back to the bargain cave and found a 4 wt type-2 clear 10' sinktip for the same cheap price. This will work on my med action 8' 4wt rod.
  9. My first fly rod was set up with a floating line and now I wonder why all starter fly rods don't come with clear intermeidiate lines. I would recommend a clear intermeidiate set up to all beginning fly fishers. In lake or streams the majority of fish feeding takes place sub-surface. Tom
    Ron McNeal likes this.
  10. I also like to have a couple rods set up. I only have 2 however. Depending where I am I usually have a 5wt setup throwing streamers on an intermediate or sink tip as well as my 4wt tossing nymphs and dries. I did start carrying extra spools for my Guru. Its a pain changing spools on the water but its good to have multiple spools to be able to switch up game plans if need be.
  11. I absolutely despise changing spools/lines on the water. I pre-rig all my rods prior to leaving the house, and take on average 5-6 rods out on a lake with me. I fish my clear intermediate and indicator rods probably 90% of the time, but the other 10% of the time I am sure glad I am rigged for those specific applications.

    Also, anymore I wouldn't dare head out to a stillwater without my Hover line. After reading Troutpocket sing it's praises many times I finally pulled the trigger on one, and boy is it a game changer. I don't always need it, but when I do it's often the difference maker.
    troutpocket likes this.
  12. Check the clear intermediate lines out. Some require stripping down to the core for splicing butt sections and backing. I believe the Cortland clear camo does not require that as the clear portion will not "skin" off.
  13. The Hover lets you fish all the same water you would target with the clear lines but also allows for a nice, slow retrieve in 3-5' without hanging up on bottom. Try that with your Aqualux or Stillwater line. I still carry an Aqualux but haven't fished it in 2 years. Maybe I should start carrying less gear . . .nah :)
  14. I have a different take on clear intermediate lines. from say 1 to 5 ft. they work great but any deeper than that they tend to have to much belly sink "bow" and missed fish are a result. I fished stillwater steelhead for some 10 years and at first used cortland camo lines and they produced only about a third of the fish then a uniform sink line. once I switched to a uniform sink type 2 or 3 my hookups tripled.

    I learned that using a weighted fly (same or faster sinking) with a uniformed sink line the line stayed straight to the fly and if a fish even breathed on it I could tell! maybe a little dramatic statement but true, the line was just so much straighter to the fly for strike detection. many times with the cortland camo or any full body sinking line, what I would feel is the fish letting go of the fly then I would set the hook, or the fish would feel the hook and spit it before I could set the hook.

    I took a friend and set him up and he wasent setting to the hook on takes. I was hooking fish and he wasent. then he told me all that was hitting were small fish or trash fish (just slightest tick-tick) I laughed and said those were steelhead and to set the hook next time! sure enough 10 pounder on. many other fly fisherman got in on this fishing and learned to splice together lines from a fast sink section to slower sink and so on to fix the problem of the "belly sink" I used scientific anglers uniform sink lines and they did the same thing as splicing many tips together. most times when I would hit bottom it would be the fly not the line beings I would tie flies that were weighted just enough to sink a little faster then the sinking line. Also - This way the line is not sunk from your boat clear to the fish spooking anything in between as you work your fly back which seemed to be important because the steelhead would spook from seeing line that is the diameter of 100 pound mono looking like a Indian set net. we found that fish would quit swimming in the area the sinking lines were working after an hour or 2. I try and take this same approach while fishing still water trout. the big "smart" fish will spook from seeing sinking lines in an area for to long.

    I just wish they made a uniform sink in clear where the tip actually sinks first and the body of the line follows at a tapered rate.

    Jim Wallace = who sells a heavy "full" sinking clear line? would be good for vertical presentations I would think.
    Starman77 and Irafly like this.
  15. I normally take 3 rods on the water (dry, full sink/intermediate and 'a bobber fishing setup'). Four rods would be ideal so I don't have to decide between full sine/intermediate but my casting sucks (has significant room for improvement) so I can't have a rod hanging off the right side of my pontoon boat [avoid snagging it]. I keep the rods 'in waiting' on the left side, and I can't fit 3 rod there (LOL) [The true fix to this problem is improving my damn casting which is on my to do list this winter]
    Lue Taylor likes this.
  16. Geeze!:D Heavy clear full-sink? That may be something that doesn't even exist! Ha, Ha, a vertical clear line? How about a very long straaight leader of some 4# fluoro with a heavy BH chironomid, and a lot of patience?

    I do have an old 6 wt Airflo clear intermediate that I ran over with my old sq-stern canoe and wound it up in my trolling motor. I had to cut and splice it, and it turned out that the tip section was trashed. Coincidentally, the belly/running line on my Airflo 6 wt multi-tip suffered a similar fate.

    To resolve this untenable situation, I am using all the sinking tips from the old multi-tip line with the old "body" of the clear intermediate full-sink. So I can now attach, via braided loops, either a type-3 or a type-6 10' sinktip on the clear intermediate mainline, as well as the clear tip. I haven't really experimented with this thing enough yet to comment on how well it actually works, though.
    I have finally extricated my sorry arse from the jungle known as "landscape maintenance servitude." I'm so happy that I've even been trading the last of my good customers away to the competition for only the promise of keeping up great service! I am, after all, getting paid with more fishing time.

    The old floating tip from the 6 wt Airflo multi-tip set-up just might go on a 6 wt clear-int sink-tip that I have, if I ever raise the courage to hack and loop it.

  17. The "el cheapo" clear intermediate full sinker that I recently purchased is a type-1. My other clear intermediate line is a Cortland Clear Camo, which I think is type-2. So I'm hoping the type-1 allows me to strip even slower without snagging the bottom.

  18. Gonna fish some leeches tomorrow..... Just might connect with some of the bruisers if keep it along the drop off, wish me luck
  19. Please explain the difference between using a floating line and a Intermediate I line.
  20. Anymore I tend to do everything I used to do with a full sink or an intermediate or a hover with just my indicator rod by adjusting my flies and depths.

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