Intermediate lines!

Discussion in 'Stillwater' started by WA-Fly, Oct 21, 2012.

  1. I agree that the STYLE of the taper is now bass bug style but I still maintain the total WEIGHT of the head is down. If the line was originally a WF 6wt it's now a Bass Bug 4wt which would cast better for me on a 4wt.

    LCnSac: I see why you overline if fishing from the tube. I'm almost always standing and often elevated a few feet off the water so I can more easily keep more line in the air. If I overline the rod it gets very sluggish and there's no power left in the rod to haul hard and shoot. I will overline a 10ft 3wt with a 4wt line mostly because the 3wt line selection is generally poor, but I definitely avoid overlining a 9ft rod.
  2. OK, I am getting this. But, by extension, why would I not get a line profile and cut out the taper to my other sinkers if that improves the distance which it definitely has? I don't think I care about presentation with sinkers--I almost always have the two fly rig with a bugger/leech and a point nymph.
  3. I don't worry about making a fancy cast with my slime line either. I'm normally using a 15-20 leader with two patterns so I don't cast much. Once in awhile I'll find a honey spot where I can remain stationary and cast around me but normally, long casts are not required when I'm in my small pontoon boat.

    Fishing with my dry line is a different story.
  4. It depends. If you're fishing for recently planted trout, your best bet is a fast strip. Real fast, as they will respond best to attractors. Most of the time I don't even use a point fly for them unless we're on the east slope where the lakes have a good insect population. The longer the cast, the more you're fishing. If you're targeting trout that have been around for awhile and have learned to feed, then distance becomes less important than retrieve and patterns.
  5. The only reason not to is it's like drilling a hole in your boat: tough to go back. :)

    I just put numbers in a spreadsheet where I assumed 5 gr / ft for the body and 3 gr / ft for the level tip and also the running line. I used 4 gr / ft average weight for the front and back tapers (average of 5 and 3). I get 141.5 gr for the first 30.5 feet of the virgin line and 119.5 gr for the first 30.5 feet of the "new" and shorter line which is the equivalent of dropping from a 5wt to a 4wt line (I overestimated in the previous post. :) ) while changing the taper style from WF to Bass Bug.
  6. That's great! So you're saying that I in fact have probably dropped a line size in grains, but am casting better because the tip is now heavier, is that correct?
  7. Exactly! IMHO
  8. VERY interesting. Thanks so much for those calculations, MBowers. I just learned some valuable information. I see no reason not to cut back some other lines, maybe my just a few feet to try. I'll bet it will make a positive difference.
  9. has anyone used the sage weight forward floating line....there on sale at cabelas for 29.99 regulary 70.00... just wondering why such a fire sale of that magnitude
  10. It's probably fine. I know the Orvis floaters often on sale for $29 are very good. You don't have to pay up for a floater in most cases. People like Albright lines too, they are even less.
  11. I LOVE IT! I bought two. It is 230 grain and cast fantastic on 6 or 8 wt.
    I use the clear camo by Cortland. Problem I have had with clear lines is the memory in cooler temps. I really want to try that Hover. I take three to four rods out with me depending on water. If it is a deep lake, I take a floating, an Intermediate, Type II or III and a Type VII or Depth Charge 350. But I use two rods a lot to find where the zone is then use one. I use the Intermediate and the Type II to do this. I will cast 50 to 60 feet out, then kick while peeling more line out allowing it to sink (remember, even intermediate will hit bottom if you wait long enough) A lot of times I get to where there is maybe two turns on the reel of line. Then I start stripping the line in. I fish two flies per rod as well. Gets real interesting when both flies are hit on both rods.
  12. Most often,"still water" is not completely still. Even the slightest breeze will ripple the surface enough to render a floating line ineffective in detecting subtle takes. Same with floating/sink tip lines. The intermediate line, sinking just below the surface, allows straight line contact with the fly.
    Mark Kraniger likes this.
  13. My catch rate went waaaaay up when I started using a clear, intermediate sinking line (slime line).
    Before slime lines were available, Cortland sold a blue thing that sank far too slowly and it didn't work worth a damn, so you want to make sure you buy a product that does sink at a fairly constant rate. The slime lines will eventually sink quite deep if you give them time.

    I have Rio lines I use for saltwater fishing and I like them. I've never tried one of their clear intermediate lines but I have no doubt they are a viable option to SA and Cortland.

    The birds nest factor is a bitch. While my Cortland doesn't tend to foul up as often as my SA, it still does go wacky from time to time. I can spend a half hour messing around pulling line of my reel to clear the birds nest before I have a chance to make a cast. But considering the clear, intermediate sinking line works so well for me, I put up with the occasional hassle.

    If you are new to stillwater flyfishing, you will also need a very fast, full sinking line. I use a depth/fish finder to determine the depth of a lake and where the fish are holding. If the lake is deep and the fish are hugging the bottom, a slime line will not do the trick.

    This is why I carry a floating, intermediate sinking and fast sinking line. There are a few lakes I fish where I don't bother trying the slime line. I go straight to the fast sinker. If I'm fishing a midge hatch, I'll use the dry line with an indicator.

  14. By "slime line" are you referring to the Airflo by that name or are you just referring to any clear line?
    If a lake is only 24' at the deepest (Henry's Lake) an intermediate will get you there, just have to count down.
  15. Opposite opinion here. I quit using clear lines several years ago and haven't missed them a bit. I prefer the slowest sinking intermediates I can find (like the sky blue Cortland) for not only their versatility but also their handling and casting in all temperature ranges. Super effective lines in my experience. I've come the conclusion that clear lines are mostly a gimmick. If I'm fishing deeper than 6' I use a different line.
  16. When I replace my shortened slime line, I will look first at a shooting line, a Rio OBS. Those are my favorite lines of any. They are perfectly weighted and seem to cast almost by themselves. I don't think they are density compensated though.
  17. I tend to agree with you. The slime line to me is a specialty line, not a go to. I use a Uniform Sink Type II far more than anything else. Hard to say if it catches me more fish because I use it frequently or because it's effective but I do know I have the greatest confidence in it.
  18. It's amazing the difference between line experiences. Just about every successful stillwater fly angler I know in Oregon uses a slime line. One fishing buddy, Rocky, uses his even when I switch to a fast sinker.

    Whatever works for you.
  19. Again, it's hard to say if we do well with a line because it's most effective or because we use it more. Two trips ago I was using a Type IV with a 15 second count down and fast stripping and my friend was using a slime line, slow trolling. We caught about the same numbers.

    There is one place where I will only use the slime line--Klamath Lake. Maybe I'm afraid Denny Rickards will see me with something else. He's the one who put me onto it years ago and Denny's not shy about opinions;-)
    Mark Kraniger likes this.

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