Discussion in 'Stillwater' started by WA-Fly, Oct 21, 2012.
You damned bobber guys....
LOL Gene, yah. I have the mentality of an 8 yr. old boy with indicator fishing. If I'm not getting a take down every two minutes or so I'm out of there. i don't know how these guys do it. They must carry a lot of reading material.
No reading material required. A take down every two minutes is not unreasonable if you're fishing the right area and depth. . .
Depth and Down! Is my mantra. Could you imagine just sitting there just looking at an indicator? That aspect right there is probably the number one myth of fishing indicators, that somehow that's all you do is just sit there and look at it. If I'm not hitting something within 2 minutes (sometimes less) after I've casted out, I'm doing something different. I'm playing around with the retrieve, I'm messing with the depth, I'm casting to different angles of the wind, etc... But I am never just sitting there staring at my indicator. You don't have the patients to stare at an indicator? I say I don't have the patients not too!
I know, I know... the system works. Some of my fishing buddies have much more patience than I do and are very successful with the technique. I can use it to catch fish if I have to... I guess... if I have to....
(truthfully, I'm also pretty good using the indicator system but it isn't my favorite technique.... guess I prefer to feel the fish hit the pattern more than the visual method of watching an indicator for any slight movement)
There are some who seem to do well with a sinking line with a midge with slow retrieve. This has never worked for me nearly as well as bobber fishing, but if it did I'd prefer it strongly. As to "retrieve" with an indicator, I've never done that--always used anchors to keep it still. I am sure I have a lot to learn if I was to actually focus on this method.
I have occasionally done well fishing an unweighted midge off an intermediate line. I use a "do nothing" retrieve with this presentation. This has been when hanging my bug under an indicator wasn't working. I can only assume that the fish were spread out and moving up and down in the water column. Fun when it happens. Cast out, take out the slack and wait for the line to take off!
Thank you, trout pocket. I've always used a fast sinker. I'll try a slime line and Type II with your method.
I've done quite well with a clear, intermediate sinking line and midge emerger patterns while slowly trolling or casting and retrieving the patterns. You're not really restricted to using a dry line and the bobber system when using midge emerger patterns.
One of my problems is being set in my ways and taking odds on the historically productive technique. I know indicator fishing can be very productive, but I don't have the patience most times.
Unless a lake has a particular unique pattern and technique, I've found that for planted trout a fast stripped (with pauses) attractor works the best. I usually use a Type IV for that. For wild fish or holdovers I'll add a point fly and troll or slow strip with a clear I line or Type II. Most fish come on the point fly except cutties that almost always take the streamer.
We have one lake that's about 80% triploid planters and 20% browns (California no longer has a brown trout program). There's an inflow that, when running, can provide great dry fly fishing. When it's on, I'll dry fly fish the "stream" and have another rod out with an indicator. Fun to get caught with two fish sometimes.
I'm late, again...
I fished for many years before I tried chironomids at all, and a few more maybe before seriously giving it a shot. But then I had a day, the same one most of you proponents have had. I and 5 buddies fishing a lake in Sno.Co., nailing them often enough and laughing our asses off. What a hoot. I don't mind watching a bobber for awhile. I'm maybe more patient than some, so I'll give it 10 or 20 minutes before a change. But I start by obtaining an accurate depth and going 3' shy, and then adjust only if needed.
How do you all deal with the anchoring when in a tube or pontoon? Again, I'm lazy. I usually use one but I should use two I know. Just seems like a PITA. Never done well drifting with an indicator on stillwater.
"One if by tube, two if by boat." (P.R?)
Two anchors are always more desirable but not as necessary (or feasible) in a float tube or Fat Cat. Boats catch more wind, have less draft, and therefore swing more. Pontoons? I'm interested in other answers too but unless I take the hard boat out, I use one in the SFC.
When anchoring my drifter I always use two unless there is no wind at all and I'm searching water, moving fast.
When I do anchor using two I put the front down first and let out all the rope (50 feet) than let the back one out and pull back so i'm in-between anchors with a 45 degree angle on both ropes. While fishing stillwater steelhead this was the only way you could get your rods around the anchor ropes when fish went crazy. Having enough angle to stick a 9 to 10 foot rod under a rope and lift and keep fighting the fish (untangled) is a must for me. Then when they are close and dig deep for bottom you can just let them dig, I lost a fish last summer because the guide just dropped #35 anchors straight down and tied them to the sled. When I got a good cranebow to the boat it dug for under the boat and I am just used to letting them dig, well second hook in the rope right under the boat!
When stillwater steelheading the fish go crazy (early chrome summer runs) and sometimes your putting your rod under the rope 2 or 3 times to play the fish - they just go everywhere! I also only ever use one fly while stillhead fishing because of this - two flies and it would be a short battle most of the time with the second fly getting caught in the anchor ropes! I take the same approach to trout fishing.