Make a custom versi tip??

Discussion in 'Fly Fishing Forum' started by Jamie Wilson, Jan 21, 2007.

  1. Nooksack Mac Active Member

    Posts: 1,956
    Bellingham, WA, USA.
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    Mono core fly lines are rare; I wouldn't worry about them.

    Paint stripper and nail polish softener will make the plastic coatings easier to remove. Don't let the line soak too long. A neat way to remove line coatings, including unsoftened ones, is by tying a short looped length of heavy mono (say 15-20 lb. test), double-wrap it around the fly line 1/2 - 1" from the end, the other end of the loop around a tool handle (to save your hands), and yank. Repeat until you've exposed as much line core as you need.
  2. Jamie Wilson Active Member

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    Arlington WA
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    OK- another question. If I want to attach the belly section to a flat mono running line- is the thread wrap/glue over the top the way to go? If so- I'm guessing that this connection, like most everything else, requires some routine maintenance to keep it smooth, etc.
  3. Preston Active Member

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    I see that I forgot to list Aquaseal as one of the good flexible adhesives. It's probably the best. You'll probably only find monofilament used as a core material in clear (or camo) intermediate sink lines. Almost all other lines use a braided core of polyester or dacron.

    I've always used floating running line (available from Cortland and Scientific Anglers in .029 and .032 diameters). I've never tried flat monofilament for running line, but a needle nail knot comes to mind as a method of attachment. I'm not sure how easy it would be to tie with flat mono, but it's a strong, compact attachment.
  4. Jamie Wilson Active Member

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    Arlington WA
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    The flat mono has a little more memory than I like but when wet it will shoot like a mo-fo. The belly/falt mono interface is exactly the achilles heel of this particular set up. This is where I need a lot of help - making and maintaining a smooth connection because it is traveling through the guides all of the time- not in casting because it is the loading point, but when you are hooked up. I have found the factory line, as seamless as the are, get sticky when wet and do not shoot as far OR sink as well!!
    Magill
  5. Sloan Craven Active Member

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    NoSho, ma
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  6. Sloan Craven Active Member

    Posts: 2,464
    NoSho, ma
    Ratings: +30 / 0
    Sorry duplicate
  7. Jamie Wilson Active Member

    Posts: 977
    Arlington WA
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    OK
    Tried the new line. Casted great, easy to handle, disentegrated on day 2. I think I can fix.
    I weighed the belly section and the sink tips. Both are 15' long. If all sink tips are the same length- 15 feet - is there a common differential among the weights of each of the sink tips over the 15 feet or is just a matter of preference?
    Is there a standard that dictates the differences from a fast sink/med/slow tip?
  8. Jamie Wilson Active Member

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    Arlington WA
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    I am having some real problems getting the floss AND the core through the the fly line. Just won't go all the way through. If I put glue on it- fuggetaboutit. Any tips?
  9. Preston Active Member

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    Make a loop, as shown, with the dental floss. Tease out about two inches of the core (just take a needle and work it until the braid is undone). Clip about one third of the teased-out fibers of the core back about an inch-and-a-half. Put half-an-inch of the thinned part of the core fibers through the loop of dental floss and snug it up to the end of the line. Saturate the remaining length of bare core with Aquaseal and give the free ends of the floss loop a good, sharp pull. This should pull the core all the way into the line and out through the side. Pull everything up nice and tight, clip off the excess and roll the splice between a couple of books or boards to smooth it out.

    Hope this takes care of any problem you might be having.
  10. Jamie Wilson Active Member

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    Arlington WA
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    Thanks Preston - that's the exact tip I needed to get it down. I seems as if the glue sets up as SOON as you pull the core into the hole. Is this your observation as well? Seems like I have one shot and if you don't pull it snug enough you need to start over.
  11. fredaevans Active Member

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    White City, Oregon, USA.
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    Got a bit of a 'kick' reading the opening post/posts on this thread. Can you make your own sink tip systems; easy as pie. Several months back a fellow poster on a UK based board PM'ed me and asked if it were possible to purchase T-14 in 'bulk.' Tad of checking and the answer was yes, and how much do you want? Point was he wanted to 'test the market' and see if he could make these up and sell them.

    Sent him over a couple hundred feet .... he's now gone through 6 full bulk spools and is doing a roaring business!:thumb:
  12. sashjo Member

    Posts: 531
    Lakewood, WA.
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    I would advise not using your fingernail. After soaking, just cinch down a loop of 10-15# mono and let it rip. It is much easier and cleaner this way.
  13. Preston Active Member

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    Dr. Magill,
    You may be experiencing the "Chinese handcuff" effect, sometimes the braided core will grip the inserted core, seemingly, very tightly. It is not, however, to be relied upon. Give whatever glue you use ample time to cure before subjecting the splice to a really hard pull.
  14. Jamie Wilson Active Member

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    Arlington WA
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    I have now completed several splices and they look OK - not too bad if you practice. You fellas have been a lot of help. Another question- how does one locate BULK of t-14, etc? Most I can find is normal Fly Shop stuff but sometimes a little cheaper - like e-bay, etc. I would love to get my hands on some floating line of different weights and diameters just to experiment with!
  15. ak_powder_monkey Proud to Be Alaskan

    Posts: 3,209
    Eagle River, Alaska
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    just keep adding sections of lead core untill you are on the bottom