Maybe a dumb question but...

Discussion in 'Spey Clave' started by BrianT, Jan 1, 2014.

  1. BrianT

    BrianT Member

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    I just got a straight 10' T-14 MOW tip for my Skagit Compact 660grain line. It's matched with a 14' 9weight Echo rod. I was playing around with it this morning, and I can't cast it worth crap. So my question is this: Is 10ft of straight T-14 too much on the end of that 27foot head?

    I'm by no means a great caster, but I've become quite proficient with my 13 ft 7 weight with 24' head and 5-7 feet of T-11.

    I didn't expect such a difference today when I went to the 9 weight setup. Obviously the T-14 is fast sinking, but I had a hell of a time with a snap T and my double spey was only slightly better. I would love any insight that you more experienced casters may offer.

    Thanks!

    Brian
     
  2. Christian Brewer

    Christian Brewer Super Slacker

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    That shouldn't be any hassle to cast...660grains should pull that T-14 out of the water with no issues if you casting mechanics are ok. It's hard to guess what the problem is without more info. What was the issue with the cast? Were you having issues getting get the tip out of the water on your forward cast...or were you blowing your anchor...or what?

    Christian
     
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  3. BrianT

    BrianT Member

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    I was having a heck of a time setting up from the dangle. It seemed to want to dig in too deeply. And then on the forward stroke, I couldn't get any sort of recoil. It just flopped out there in a heap.

    I recognize that my mechanics are still in need of tweaking, but it was significantly more difficult than I expected. Could the current have been a little too slow. I did notice that I was ticking bottom and hanging up much more than normal.
     
  4. Do a quick roll cast on the dangle then lift and set. also longer you wait or slower your sweep is more time it digs.

    i really like using the perrypoke to throw the ol garbagio'
     


  5. just in case your not familiar with ire
     
  6. BrianT

    BrianT Member

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    Thanks, Evan. The Perry Poke has been on my list for needing to learn for some time now. I guess I've got to devote a little time to it. I appreciate the input.
     
  7. jsuyes

    jsuyes FFF-CCI

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    I'm learning to Spey cast and I have had the same problems. I can tell you what I did to fix them. First off, Ill repeat what Evan said, Roll cast to lift the line up to the surface on the dangle. I do this every cast. Second, The head and the sink tip should be 3 to 3.5 times the length of the rod. Doing the math, you are 5 feet under this rule of thumb on your 9 weight and 8 feet under on your 7 weight. Long length isn't the issue. In fact, you might want to go longer. Finally, I think the reason its flopping out there is because your timing if off. When I switch from casting my 7 weight up to my 9 weight it takes me about 2 hours of casting before I can adjust my stroke to what the 9 weight requires. I have to consciously force my self to cast slower with the heavier line and sink tip on my 9 weight. I'm guessing that this is your problem too.
     
  8. hydrological

    hydrological beads are NOT flies and snagging is just ghetto

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    immediately after you strip in, start your shotgun lift slowly from the dangle. make sure you dont pause in between. if you start without slack, with only 10' of t-14 you should be able to start your next cast without a roll cast first. if you lift at the right speed from the dangle, you should see most of your tip come out of the water, then its time to start your anchor stroke. the roll cast first certainly doesn't hurt tho. timing becomes a bit more important with heavier tips.
     
  9. g_smolt

    g_smolt Recreational User

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    Longer line = longer stroke.

    At the risk of oversimplifying, if you add 10' to your system, you will need to add length to your stroke.

    Also - the long, slow lift with a subtle downstream flick at the apex works wonders for setting upstream shoulder anchors with heavy tips/flies.
     
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  10. Christian Brewer

    Christian Brewer Super Slacker

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    The important thing with long bellies, sinking lines, or sinking tips is to be sure to separate your lift move from your move to place your anchor. I'm betting like your combining the 2 moves because I see people doing it all of the time...including me. Shorter the heads or lighter the tips are much more forgiving.

    After you strip the fly line in to recast it, really concentrate on lifting your rod tip high to get the sink tip to the surface then make your move to place your anchor...it's 2 separate moves that has to happen very smoothly to kept your sink tip/fly moving and laid out correctly so for your back then forward casting strokes to be most effective with as little energy as possible to put the fly out there cleanly.
     
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  11. BrianT

    BrianT Member

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    Christian,
    I know that's true about the lift. I don't separate those two motions like I should. It's a good reminder for sure.
    Brian
     
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  12. Jumbo

    Jumbo Member

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    take a lesson.
     
  13. SpeySpaz

    SpeySpaz still an authority on nothing

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    slow down. focus on form and a light touch. That head will carry 200 grains without a problem.
     
  14. fredaevans

    fredaevans Active Member

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    Chris' comment gets my vote for "Post of the Day" when it comes to 2hander casting. Biggest 'bad habit' to break with a 'Newbie' is getting into their heads that the 'lift' and 'anchor placement' are two separate events ... even if one immediately follows the other. You can not do a lift/drag and not expect what's going to happen next.

    Not much.
     

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