Metal Yard Art

Discussion in 'Fly Fishing Forum' started by Loren Jensen, Jan 26, 2011.

  1. i would like to make the logo but not enough time..i have too many other projects at the moment..maybe sometime more near april or may..

    shipping: we'd have to talk. e-mail me

    those are the 24" designs..gotta get more metal in..i'll write you down! heat colored or no?

    if interested please e-mail me or pm me like my first post states! thank you guys for your interest :)
  2. here are some more recent pictures. ran into the same thing as the last time i heat colored metal. clear coat, for some reason, fades the colors. makes them not so bright, but they still look great.

    here is a fly before i heat color it

    heat colored fish, before clear

    and a fish before heat coloring

    will post pics tomorrow of the heat colored and cleared pieces. thanks guys

  3. Those look great Loren!
  4. Thank you! I wish they wouldn't have faded as much so they look like the pictures above, but they still look good.
  5. Loren, as an artist perfection will always be your enemy. I do a little creative work myself, those are quite impressive.

    PM on the way.
  6. sounds good man. thank you
  7. Loren

    Many years ago I did a lot of this kind of work. At one point I made all of the Puget Sound marine life (fish, marine, mammals and invertebrates) that lined the entryway into the Seattle Aquarium. They were there for many years but sadly they are no longer on display.

    There are a few guidelines you need to follow to get deep rich colors and keep them intact under you clear coating.

    Always heat from the back side, never from the front. The layer of color will be thicker and much deeper and richer.
    Use a big torch. These are sold as weed burners and run on propane. This will give a more gradual color gradient. You can then switch to a smaller torch to add detail to an area but still from the back side.
    Keep that torch moving. Heat slowly and consistently. The steel will continue to color after you remove the heat source so stop heating before you reach your desired color.
    The colors you are trying to achieve do not take that much heat. You can hit most colors in an oven.
    Pale gold being is achieved at about 430 F, dark blue at about 600F. That is only 170F difference with approx 15 shades between 430 and 600. In some cases we are only talking about 20F between colors. Think about that and what it means about your torch movement.

    There is a bit of voodoo involved in this and when you get really good at it you can conjure up some pretty cool colors not normally seen in this kind of work.

    Clear coat using an industrial acrylic lacquer. Always with a spray gun. Never wipe or brush you clear coat on or you will be wiping off the color.

  8. thanks for this. my teacher had little advise for me. i have used a bigger torch on different bluing projects. i will try heating from the backside soon. thank you so much. i appreciate the help.

  9. Loren: I would love another one.... the fish one would be great. Can you torch it to give it a little more color?
  10. yep no problem. just waiting on materials! what size do you want chef?
  11. Loren

    The following only applies to the mild steel that you are currently using.

    Cut and paste then print this list for reference

    Temps in Fahrenheit

    430 Very Pale Yellow
    440 Light Yellow
    450 Pale Straw Yellow
    460 Straw Yellow
    470 Deep Straw Yellow
    480 Dark Yellow
    490 Yellow Brown
    500 Brown Yellow
    510 Red Brown
    520 Brown Purple
    530 Light Purple
    540 Full Purple
    550 Dark Purple
    560 Full Blue
    570 Dark Blue
    600 Very Dark Blue

    After Very Dark Blue the blue will begin to fade back to a very light blue steel. This is because the color (caused by oxidation) will begin to burn off. You can see this on your fly and trout scene.

    Prepare the surface on some bits and pieces, take them home and play around with colors in your home oven. It won't contaminate the oven for cooking.

    One last thing. Never touch a freshly ground surface with anything before heating (it will cause spotting at the point of contact). Figure out a way to pick up your pieces without contacting the surface.
    Okay, one more thing. Always begin heating immediately after surface prep. If you don't have time to both grind and heat then don't start grinding until you do. A pristine surface is critical for success.

  12. thanks for this. i have learned so much since last year. i've learned all of this the hard way lol
  13. same as last time.
  14. ok so a heat colored 12" fish?
  15. sounds good. and no rush bro.
  16. ok just waiting on metal
  17. should have a shipment of steel coming in soon! ask the guys who have picked their art up, they're really liking it. just give me a holler if you are interested and we can work something out! thanks everyone.
  18. Wow!!

    Just picked up my pre-ordered 18" fish w/heat coloring. What a beautiful piece of art! Thanks Loren. You are truly an artist.

    To the rest of you WFF readers: If you haven't ordered a piece from Loren yet, I'd heartily recommend you do so now. These are beautiful sculptures suitable for home, office, workshop, fly-tying station, store, etc. They'd even make stunning yard art if treated to slow oxidation (they might be really cool with a bit of oxidation but you'd want it to develop slowly to maximize the life of the piece).

    Anyway, thanks Loren, for the opportunity to purchase such a wonderful piece of fine art at such a reasonable price.

  19. Dan, thank you for being a great customer. I was glad to see your expression. It makes selling this stuff fun. Hope to make some for some more folks! Orders have slowed down, now I have time to make some more.

    Thanks again Dan, and thank you for the thermos and flashlight. Very cool.

  20. picked up my third one. Great to have in the tying room and make wonderful gifts for friends.

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