My batteries have arrived, now how do I connect them?

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by Baseball_Junkie, Mar 31, 2011.

  1. Baseball_Junkie Fish Witcher

    Posts: 203
    Graham, WA
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    I can't remember who recommended Battery spec but they were great. Got my batteries today but upon looking at the terminals on the wheelchair batteries and the alligator clips on the trolling motor I see they don't jibe. How did YOU do it??

    Aaron
  2. jeff bandy Make my day

    Posts: 2,413
    Edmonds, Wa.
    Ratings: +405 / 2
    What type of terminals are on the batteries? If they are for bolts you could do it this way.

    Find the right bolt size. get 2" long bolts. cut the heads off and file clean. After running the bolts in hand tight, put on a lock washer and then a nut. Tighten no more than 1/2 turn past hand tight. Next, two flat washers, one lock washer and a wing nut.

    Go to a auto parts store to get replacement crimp fittings for the alligator clips. You will want to place the crimp between the two flat washers. that way you get good contact. The lock washer under the wing nut will keep things tight during use.

    Good to go.
  3. Baseball_Junkie Fish Witcher

    Posts: 203
    Graham, WA
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    Can't seem to paste a picture into this text window. Any suggestions on how to post a pic of my battery terminals??

    Aaron
  4. jeff bandy Make my day

    Posts: 2,413
    Edmonds, Wa.
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    Open a free photobucket account. paste from there. Thats how I do it anyway.
  5. sportsman Active Member

    Posts: 807
    Kirkland, wa., 98034.
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    Aaron, you probably got batterys that have 'spade' terminals...either F1 or F2. Cut the clips off the motor[ leave 5-6 inches ] so you can use them again. I put the opposite spade connections on them. Anyway. go to Shucks or whoever and buy the appropriate sized terminals that fit your battery and install them. You need to buy 'yellow'[size 10] connectors, that's the size of the wires on your motor.
  6. Baseball_Junkie Fish Witcher

    Posts: 203
    Graham, WA
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    PERFECT!!! Exactly what I needed to hear!! Thnx
  7. Alex MacDonald Dr. of Doomology

    Posts: 3,336
    Haus Alpenrosa, Lederhosenland
    Ratings: +895 / 0
    "Batteries" always reminds me of one of Don Cherry's infamous quotes during Hockey Night a few years ago, when asked what he thought about the interrogations at Abu Ghraib: "Red is positive, black is negative, and make sure their balls are wet"... Shocking; simply shocking!!
  8. themaninthemoon Just waiting on warmer weather, .......

    Posts: 187
    East Chicago, Indiana 46312
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    I always forget whether I'm wiring in series, or parallel, but if you're wiring for 12v, Run your red wires together & your black wires together from battery to battery then to your motor's respective terminals.
    If you're wiring it for 24v then black (neg), to positive (red) from Battery#1 to battery #2, on one side, then do the opposite to the other side, & run your two wires, one red & one black, to their respective terminals on the motor.

    If you're still not sure you did it right then get an inexpensive voltage tester @ one the the local DIY centers, or an auto parts store. & check your voltage to make sure it will be applicable to your unique situation.

    And if I now have you thoroughly confused, (LOL), ......go online & Google it, to see a diagram & you can check it out to see if you have it wired right!
    Wouldn't hurt to put an inline circuit breaker in your system either.
  9. Baseball_Junkie Fish Witcher

    Posts: 203
    Graham, WA
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    MitM,

    Forgive my ignorance but "Dammit Jim, I'm a FISHERMAN not an electrician". What is the difference between those configurations and why would I choose one over the other??

    Aaron
  10. jeff bandy Make my day

    Posts: 2,413
    Edmonds, Wa.
    Ratings: +405 / 2
    Series, increase voltage=2x12=24. Parallel, increase amp hour(run time)2x12=12.
  11. Baseball_Junkie Fish Witcher

    Posts: 203
    Graham, WA
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    Isn't my little Minn Kota designed for 12V?? Would the higher voltage make me GO faster?? Isn't run time your primary concern??

    Aaron
  12. jeff bandy Make my day

    Posts: 2,413
    Edmonds, Wa.
    Ratings: +405 / 2
    Oh you'd go faster all right. for maybe a few seconds before the motor fried. 12volts means 12volts. Putting 24volts to it is like doubling the pressure in your plumbing. Something is going to blow.

    Think of voltage as the amount of pressure. Amp hours as the size of your storage tank.

    You can get a 24 volt motor. Lots more power. Lots more money.
  13. Baseball_Junkie Fish Witcher

    Posts: 203
    Graham, WA
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    Got it. So moral is...12volts only...use one battery till she dead then switch to the other
  14. Stan Blodgett New Member

    Posts: 13
    Eagle River, AK
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    for a 12 volt motor, hook the positive of one battery to the positive of the other battery, then to the postivie wire on the motor, then do the same with the negative side. That way your battery lasts longer, but is still the correct voltage. Think of it like jump starting your car, you get an extra battery without getting 24 volts to damage your trolling motor.
  15. mojo Member

    Posts: 109
    Yewtah
    Ratings: +2 / 0
    It's really simple. Here's an easy way to remember (at least it's how I learned).
    Think about how you put batteries in a two cell flashlight. That's a series connection.
    Each battery is 1.5 volts. The flashlight is a 3 volt light. +Battery1-+Battery2- =3volts.
    Series would be Putting the + to +, and - to -, 1.5v plus 1.5v = 1.5v. Like Jeff Bandy said same voltage but higher amperage.
  16. themaninthemoon Just waiting on warmer weather, .......

    Posts: 187
    East Chicago, Indiana 46312
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    No, MOJO,
    I just forget which one I'm talking about. I can wire either configuration in my sleep, because I know & understand which one I'm doing at the time.
    And both systems can be combined to give even more power for long sustained time periods.

    LOL GOT YA!!!
    Re-read what you just wrote, because you got "BOTH" situations of these examples as being "SERIES" wired. LOLOL!

    "It's really simple. Here's an easy way to remember (at least it's how I learned).
    Think about how you put batteries in a two cell flashlight. That's a series connection.
    Each battery is 1.5 volts. The flashlight is a 3 volt light. +Battery1-+Battery2- =3volts.
    Series would be Putting the + to +, and - to -, 1.5v plus 1.5v = 1.5v. Like Jeff Bandy said same voltage but higher amperage."


    Yes Jeff is right, but see, just like me, you missed a step back there. In the 1st example it's actually a PARALLEL system that you have described.

    And now that I've been thinking about it, then I'm thinking that "multiple" batteries, lined up with wiring running consecutively (pos. to pos to pos), is series wiring right? YES!!!

    And parallel wiring is running alternative posts, (pos to neg to pos) would give me 36 v, right? YES!!!

    I used to know this stuff inside out, & upside down, etc. But I haven't messed with any of this stuff for a # of years now.
    At one time I could wire a Mack truck that had a positive ground system, (came that way from the factory), & in the service I got a deuce & 1/2 (multifuel), to pass an V-Corp inspection by rewiring all of the dashboard wiring with commo wire because a fire under the hood fried all of the wire in the harness. Took me almost a week to tag each wire at both ends & direct it to the proper gauges/sending units etc. The one real problem I had involved the multiple stages on the fan motor for the heater, (a rare accommodation in those days).
    The hardness & stiffness of the wire itself didn't help/assist in the application either. The ends had to be trimmed just so you could bend it around the terminal. No spade clips for the Army, (why shucks, that be just to darn simple & easy), Nope, the Army wanted everything to be watertight, just in case you had to drive into a stream/river/lake to get to the other side just exactly the way they said to.
    Even our hallowed "Jeeps", (M151), had screwed on braided wire watertight sparkplug jackets back to the distributor, so they could also be able to cross rivers, streams, lakes, etc.

    Oh well, I know how to wire stuff, & the Army also taught me how to wire stuff to go BOOM!!! too, but that was many moons passing & that's not what this forum is for.

    The important thing here is to know how to wire the system "YOU" have, & leave the "splaining" things to Lucy, (LOL), or otherwise qualified teacher/personnel, I guess.

    Good luck & good fishing to all,
    Hoosier friend
  17. sportsman Active Member

    Posts: 807
    Kirkland, wa., 98034.
    Ratings: +78 / 0
    http://www.dcbattery.com/faq.html#6 nice little diagram to keep it straight, because this thread has gotten confusing and it's really basic. I double check myself on it all the time..I have a small 12 volt charger and a bigger[wheel chair] 24 volt charger...I use them both when I'm fishing back to back days. It takes quite awhile to charge SLA batteries, especially if you have run the battery below 12 volts. FYI... you can also have a " Series/Parallel installation"!!! I had to do one for an engine installation I was doing up in Sydney, BC. What a mess of crap of wires running in the bilge!!
  18. mojo Member

    Posts: 109
    Yewtah
    Ratings: +2 / 0
    Duh! Woops- Series first example, parallel on the second example. Sorry.
    Since I have a hard time drawing in the IPad, it's easier for me to copy and paste a url for series and parallel so- http://www.solarseller.com/battery_bank_wiring_diagram.htm
  19. sportsman Active Member

    Posts: 807
    Kirkland, wa., 98034.
    Ratings: +78 / 0
    Wow, don't ya think it's time to give him a break? He's going to be so confused he's going to sell all of his shit!
  20. jeff bandy Make my day

    Posts: 2,413
    Edmonds, Wa.
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