need pattern - sarp seducer

Discussion in 'Patterns' started by willapabay, Oct 27, 2005.

  1. willapabay New Member

    Posts: 54
    RAYMOND, WA.
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    anyone have a pattern, photo or internet link for the "Sarp Seducer" fly

    thank you, Ron on the Willapa
  2. Davy Active Member

    Posts: 2,021
    SIlverton, OR
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  3. mike doughty Honorary Member

    Posts: 10,179
    the uinta's
    Ratings: +5 / 0
    I have a video where tony sarp ties the sarp's seducer. this is how tony tied it.

    hook-tmc7999
    tail-pearl flashabou
    body-pearl fireweed( not sure what that is but it looks like a flat diamond braid)
    under wing-red marabou with the stem intact
    overwing-black marabou with the stem intact topped with blue flashabou
    eyes- silver bead chain

    he ties it weighted or unweighted. i tied aome up a long time ago and will see if i have any left to post a picture
  4. willapabay New Member

    Posts: 54
    RAYMOND, WA.
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    thank you for the recipe, ron
  5. Norm Frechette Active Member

    Posts: 602
    Norwich, CT
    Ratings: +77 / 0
    Sarp's Seducer

    Flashabou and marabou combined in a deadly pattern for big steelhead.
    By David Decker

    Another steamy morning found us waist deep in an autumn-cold flow hoping that the first pool held more than imagined steelhead. My wife Christine, was in the pole position, with Tony, Murry and I behind her. Cast, step, cast, step. We proceeded down the run. Concentration had us all in our own space in time.

    When I cast the 10-weight Hi-Speed, Hi-D shooting taper on a short stout leader, the fly swung deep in the current. Halfway through the pool I began to think that this was merely warm-up for the casting ahead, then suddenly there was a tap - more like a pluck. I reached forward in anticipation of the take. The fly continued to swim, then there was another pluck, ever so slight, trouty even. The third time I felt no pluck, just the heavy weight of a British Columbia steelhead heading back to its mid-river holding spot with a #4/0 Sarp's Seducer stabbed in his jaw.

    The second time I set the hook the fish responded violently with a reel-screeching run and several head-long cartwheels. After many episodes of gaining and losing line, jumping, thrashing and battling, the 25-pound buck lay in the shallows. His scarlet flank glowed in the early morning light, and while his gill covers heaved, I dislodged the hook and held him up-right in the flow. Minutes later, as he slowly glided into the gray depths, there was no question about his recovery. He surely would live to spawn again in the spring.

    I met Tony Sarp on a similar morning a few years ago on the Kispiox River in B.C. As Chris and I approached in our raft, he was into a good fish. We pulled over just upstream from Tony to watch the bout. When he was in the last stages of the fight we were near enough to see the steelhead. At the end of his doubled rod finned a beautiful 15-pound hen fish, all but spent. After Tony released the bright fish we introduced ourselves. Tony and I both operate fly-fishing lodges, with his in Alaska and mine in Montana. We were both on a busman's holiday.

    Tony had a large, blue fly tied to his leader. It shone more like a 1956 blue Chevy than a fly. Tony laughed when I asked him what he was using, and he held up the huge metallic streamer for closer inspection. His fly was quite unlike the traditional Skunks and Spey patterns tied to our lines. Apparently this large non-traditional pattern was also far more effective - we had not hooked a fish that day, and Tony's group had landed seven.

    Tony ties his Sarp's Seducer on #1 to #5/0 salmon hooks. Partridge hooks work great because of their almost straight eye, but Mustad hooks are also fine.

    When completed, the fly looks more like a lure. Its appearance may surprise some tiers, but remember that you have to sell the fish not the fisherman.

    Sarp's Seducer
    TAIL: Pearl flashabou, one-third the length of the hook shank, tied quite WEIGHT: Eight-amp fuse wire, from tail to three eye lengths back from the eye.
    BODY: Gold woven mylar, tinsel, or braided pearl flashabou works well. UNDER WING: Black over red marabou, one-third longer than the hook and tail length, very full, two plumes each color.
    OVER WING: Medium blue flashabou, a bit longer than the marabou, tied very full, somewhat around the fly. Cover the marabou.
    EYES: Large silver bead chain.
    HEAD: Black thread, and black lacquer.

    Presenting the Fly
    THE FISHING TECHNIQUE I use differs from Tony's in terms of tackle, but not with respect to presentation. The key is to get the fly close to the fish.

    Tony uses an 8- or 9-weight rod and Hart F4 reel, with 20-pound backing. The line set-up consists of a spool of floating running line, looped to an 18-foot section of 10-weight level floating line, looped to a section of Scientific Anglers Deep-water Express sinking line ranging from two to eight feet, depending on water speed and depth. The sinking sections have loops on each end to facilitate quick changes that become necessary from pool to pool. The leader consists of two sections of mono, a 20-inch butt of .024" tied with a surgeon's loop, and a 20-inch tippet of 15- to 20-pound Maxima. A short leader makes the fly swim deeper.

    Learning to cast this arrangement takes practice. But most casters do not have difficultly mastering it if they remember initially to duck on the forecast.

    The Deep-water Express tip sinks rapidly, while the 10-weight level floating line allows fabulous mending at great distances. With this setup, I can keep the fly in the zone for long periods or move it at will by mending up or downstream with the sink tip.

    Tony fishes mostly slots and smaller areas that hold fish near fast water. These spots are impossible to fish with conventional fly tackle, which leaves them unspoiled for anglers using Tony's technique.

    I use a system that allows me to cover water farther away. A ten-foot, 8- or 9-weight rod works well. The longer rod length makes mending considerably easier. A Sage 509 reel works well for me which I highly recommend. I use 200 yards of 20-pound backing tied to 150 feet of flat mono, or floating running line, all looped to a standard shooting-taper. The choice of tapers depends on the speed and the depth of the current. The fly must run deep. I apply one variation: I cut several feet off the taper. For instance, to obtain a #9 taper I take a #11 taper and remove two feet. The shorter shooting-taper sinks faster and handles the heavy fly much better.

    The butt section consist s of 20 inches of .024" Maxima nail knotted to the taper. Stepping down with .022", .020", .017", .015", and .013" for the tippet will turn over even the most stubborn fly. The entire leader should measure no more than six feet. Make the sections between the butt and the tippet eight to ten inches each and the tippet less than 20 inches.

    I cast the fly across the current and immediately mend upstream several times to make the fly swim slowly through the pool. I often mend several more times during a swing. Strikes occur anywhere during the swing but more often as the line begins to straighten. It is critical not to strike too soon when a fish takes the fly. Wait until he has turned. Let the weight of the fish come full and then lean on him twice. On the second strike, bring the rod up firmly, and with a short, quick, pumping action finish setting the hook. I call this the "quivering strike."
  6. Bob Triggs Your Preferred Olympic Peninsula Fly Fishing Guide

    Posts: 3,979
    Olympic Peninsula
    Ratings: +646 / 0
    Now THAT is a reply!:thumb:
  7. willapabay New Member

    Posts: 54
    RAYMOND, WA.
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    Thanks for all the responses on the Seducer, especially the flytire posting, that was beyond the call of duty,, thanks so much everyone, Ron on the Willapa