Poly leaders and fluorocarbon

Discussion in 'Spey Clave' started by Paul Huffman, Nov 28, 2012.

  1. Paul Huffman

    Paul Huffman Lagging economic indicator

    Would you loop on fluorocarbon tippet onto on of those tapered poly leaders, or does the fluoro cut through the poly leader extension?
  2. Patrick Gould

    Patrick Gould Active Member

    I've been doing it for two years and haven't had any breakage. (I'm using the ones labeled "trout" so they might be different from the the Steelhead ones.)
  3. Sean Beauchamp

    Sean Beauchamp Hot and Heavy at yer 6

    Loop it right on no problems for me using 10 and 12# seaguar. Keep an eye on the factory loop on the poly tho I had two come apart this summer, both times I noticed before total failure and just tied another loop (non slip loop) and kept er rollin. The intermediate one seems solid as can be I fished mine all summer for dries and wets and its in great shape. My extra fast sink completely crumbled in 3 trips. So I switched back to t8 tips for that application.
  4. yuhina

    yuhina Tropical member

    Agree! The intermediate is great, I keep them. But the fast, super fast polyleader is bad, I think the tapered front end is a bad design, I simply cut the front few feet off and tie a new knot.
  5. John Clark

    John Clark Member

    The rio steelhead polyleaders have a 24lb mono core. I think you would be ok.
  6. How does the T-8 turn over in comparison to the tapered poly? What kind of head are you throwing with that?
  7. John Clark

    John Clark Member

    As long as you keep your "t" material a respectable length say less then 12' you can turn it over with a big ugly with the skagit your using.

  8. Sean Beauchamp

    Sean Beauchamp Hot and Heavy at yer 6

    10' of t8 is my favorite summer tip and has a little more oomph than a similarly classed poly. It's level so it doesn't have the tapered end that gives the poly finesse. What intrigued me about the extra fast polys was how thin they were it seemed stealthier but I was bummed to drop the dough and have the coating crumble off before I could come to any conclusions. I fish t8 comfortably on rage compacts (and before the Rage on a Scandi compact with the front 5' cut off) and skagits but its limited to flies on the smaller/lighter spectrum. Casts lightly dressed small lead eyed tubes beautifully on the rage. Start adding 3 or more inches of bunny or medium lead eyes and moving up to t11 improves turnover.
    Steffan Brown likes this.
  9. yuhina

    yuhina Tropical member

    well... depends on what kind of sinking profile you want... the tapered "fine-end" sinktip will sink much slower than the butt section... see below info from fly fishing research for more detail: http://flyfishingresearch.net/calcemyourself/taperedsinktips.html I have very similar experience in my airflo polyleader (fast, extreme fast...)... some of them rarely get used...
    Like Sean said, I use t-8, t-11 (8-10 feet) when lighter sinking profile is needed. (pretty much give up on those tapered sinktip)

    Among other things, we learned that the butts of these lines sink faster than their tips. See, for example, our measurements of the 7 ips (inches per second sink rate) VersiLeader in the table below. It turns out only the butt end sinks at 7 ips, whereas the tip end sinks more slowly (2.8 - 4.6 ips).

    7 ips VersiLeader -- Properties by Segment

    We found that the PolyLeader "Extra Super Fast Sinking" is even more tapered than the 7 and 5.6 ips VersiLeaders. While its butt sinks at 6.8 ips, its tip sinks at 2.2 - 3.5 ips. Because all these lines are constructed with a constant-diameter monofilament core and a tapered tungsten-impregnated coating, the tip end simply has less of the heaving coating than the butt end. So the tip end sinks more slowly. We validated this conclusion by casting each line so that it landed horizontally on the surface of a swimming pool. In each case, it took the tip much longer to reach bottom than the butt, and more so for the PolyLeader than the VersiLeaders.

    The fast-sink-butt-and-slow-sink-tip characteristic of these lines is undesirable from a fishing perspective -- particularly when you'd like your sink tip to pull an unweighted fly down to your desired fishing depth. In further swimming pool experiments with each line, we connected a floating line to the butt and a 3' 15 lb leader with a small (2.5") unweighted tube fly to the tip. Casting this setup so that it landed horizontally on the water, we noted that each of these lines sank with an undesirable "U" shape (the fly remained near the surface for too long).
    Mort and fredaevans like this.
  10. SpeySpaz

    SpeySpaz still an authority on nothing

    works fine, Paul. do it.
    never mind the overminding etc.
  11. fredaevans

    fredaevans Active Member

    Fellow has it pretty much nailed down tight above, about the only 'compensated' sink tip you're going to find will be part of a full on fly line or, perhaps, as an integrated fly line/tips combo (pricie to say the least). At least with a straight shot of T this or that you know what you've got.

    All that aside its rare that I'll use a sink tip (or poly leader) without a lightly weighted fly on the business end. Idea of this is to pull down the 'tip of the tip' as any 'tip' will be grossly ineffective in real life. Only way to make them 'reasonably efficient' is to have a 'compensator' of some sort between the floating portion and the actual tip. RIO used to market them, but they appear not to have had a wide acceptance.

    You can make your own 'compensator' with a couple of feet of 25 - 30 pound mono placed between the floating line and the tip material. The mono allows the tip to immediately drop away from the floating section (dry line) which is, by its very nature, trying to keep the tip from sinking.