pontoon footpegs

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by SpeySpaz, Feb 6, 2009.

  1. I have a Skookum Steelheader, and love the boat, but I've noticed that you really don't have anything to brace off against with your feet while rowing.
    anybody have a creative solution for this?

    I've considered looking for some of those flip-down footpegs like they use on the highway bars of motorcycles, but that's the only thought I've come up with yet that will still allow me to hop back up on the platform pretty easily, because I'm in and out of the boat a lot when steelheading.
  2. SS, seek out used wheelchair parts...some models have fold up foot platforms that bolt onto the round frame supports. Might fit your needs.
  3. Mumbles. That's a good idea. :thumb:
  4. Every now and then a blind squirrel comes across an acorn!
  5. Yeah, that was pretty good. I got nothin'...
  6. that's a really good idea Ed, if I do that I hope it doesn't remind me of my job every time I set me feet in 'em!
    Maybe Jerry knows a trick or two, he's done a lot of whitewatering in this boat and probably rigged something up for his.
  7. You don't really need footpegs. You shouldn't ever need to oar that hard that you need footpegs. BUT, there is an easy solution, and EASY to modify. In fact, it's what I used. Just get yourself another strap. One like you use to strap the pontoons to the frame. Just put it around the front of the frame where you'll be getting in and out. Make sure you have a strap that's extra long. Nice thing, you don't need to pull the strap tight. You want it to hang, since I know there will be a tendancy to have your legs longer then the frame. This way, when you need it you simply push your feet forward and your feet will brace against the strap. If I'm not clear, I can see about taking a pic of my boat frame with a strap. But if you have a standard steelheader frame, you'll simply loop the strap around the front corners of the frame (where it's open so you can climb in and out). I say keep it longer so it drops down and it out of your way so you can still get in and out.
  8. Eureka! thx Jerry, I'll give er a try. No pix necessary, I got a good visual on it.
    wasn't so much about pulling like an Olympic rower, but having my feet braced off makes it a little easier on the old back, and steadier going through choppy chutes.
    appreciate the advice. That's a good one.
  9. So Jerry, what do you do when that dangling strap hooks an underwater branch attached to a 400 year old Douglas Fir log? :hmmm:
  10. LOL Gatorater, if you set it up the way I instructed (or the best I could do it w/o a visualization) you won't ever hook up. it dangles down to the standing platform, not into the water. Sorry, a steelheader has a standard whitewater type frame. Which means it has bars that stick out a bit. So when I say the strap hangs, it doesn't even come close to the water, it will at most bunch up at the feet. It's not like your typical fishing frames on an outcast, bucks, etc where your footpegs are at waters level. The frame piece you attach to sits a good 12" above the water. So the dangling will be down to the floor at most.
  11. ss,

    do you put the 2nd seated frame in front or behind the rowing seat?
  12. It's a steelheader so it's a single.
    I think the "steelhead guide" is the double, and the rower usually sits upstream.
    hey, welcome to the board. I like your handle.
  13. No, the steelheader guide model is simply the 10'. The 9' is the original steelheader. The steelheader II is the 12' two seater. I actually have a cargo module that I can put a second on my 10' guide model. But a 10' boat really isn't that big. It'll handle 2, don't get me wrong. But a 12' is about as small as I'd go with two people.
  14. I was just curious. I have the Guide II, 12 foot. I like to sit behind the 'guest' and use that frame to brace my feet upon. I'm long legged so I get away with it. I miss it when I go alone, so if you do find a simple plan, please share.

    Another person thought I could run a PVC pipe accross with a strap down the middle as a brace, but that seemed too wobbly in my mind. Maybe it would work.

    Thanks for the welcome.
  15. Cataraft fishing, you nailed it, just take the PVC out. What I was talking about. Once you put your feet into the strap, it'll pull tight and won't be wobbly. You don't need something that solid. Key to any "drift" style boat is simple small oar strokes. You don't need big heavy pulls. Put you just described my method minus the PVC. You can use it, but the PVC will eventually get weak and break. That strap will be just fine for years. Plus one quick pull and the strap can be tucked away. Trust me, it works great. Been doing it for years. But using a bigger custom frame on my Steelheader Guide. So has a metal post as part of the frame, so no need for the strap anymore.
  16. I'll give it a try. I'll be solo in a few weeks out on the Sol Duc (if it's in shape- if not I'll try another river). I'll give a report.

  17. I thought I'd post this up anyways. You can see two of my old boats. The one on the left is an original steelheader. Bought that years ago. Internet was brand spanking new back then. Do believe this photo was taken circa 1998. The steelheader was a couple years old then. If you look, you can see where I put a strap. That was my footpeg. With that one, my girlfriend at the time wanted to try rowing, so I cinched that strap tight (she had short legs). I took my kids on my big cataraft on the right. But you get the idea better with the picture. Worked great. Especially if you had longer legs, you would have strap a little longer, where it would dangle to the floor. So made it easier to get in and out of, and have something to hold on to if you were walking a slot.

  18. I hope its okay to highjack this thread to ask questions. If it's not, just let me know.

    Jerry, did you say you had a custom frame on the two seater? It's great. The placement of the box next to the rowing seat is smart. The forward part, with the bike, is the way I want to modify my second frame for my dog, maybe put some outdoor carpet on the wood.

    So the strap runs around twice then back to itself. I have two extra six's. I'll use one, keep the other for emergency river repairs.

    The only 'clever' modifications I've managed are after-product items. I use a 'boat step on a rope' hooked behind the rower to help me board in deeper water. So I don't look like an idiot climbing over a pontoon. They're cheap at the boating stores. I use a kayaker's deck bag as my emergency/first aid kit. Everything from shelters to patch kits fits inside and is kept waterproof.

    I can't find a pic of the step, but here's the bag. The 2nd seat is on a pedestal, which allows great visibility for the fisherman and ease in standing and sitting.

    Posting an image appears to be too much for me. I can only provide the link.

  19. Ok, that boat you see to the right isn't a Steelheader. It's my old Aire Ocelot 16' Cataraft that was my primary whitewater boat when I did it professionally. Yes, that's a custom frame I had built. Just when I whitewatered, the rowers frame went in front of the cargo frame you see. I did a quick conversion of the frame so I could use it for fishing. That module you see with the bike and piece of wood is a cargo module. Held two large dry boxes. I simply put a piece of wood on the top for a seat and a piece of wood on the floor to make a standing platform. I did have a custom frame built for it, it was a machine. Miss it actually. Had to sell it when I was off hurt. I kept the frame you see, and that rowers module actually sits on my Steelheader guide model. But yes, when I designed it I had it made to put the two rubbermaid locking bins for supplies, repair kits, quick food and water, etc when I was running whitewater. Works great for fishing, because I can use those bins to again put those things in it, plus extra fishing lures/flies, misc gear. I'm going to actually make a plate to bolt to the back of the rowers seat to put a real anchor rest.

    But here's the frame I had custom built for the 16' cataraft. Could fish 3-4 out of it (usually only 3 max). I put sliders up front so I could take out or put in seats. Usually would do 4 people only if I put my kids in it. So they'd go up front while the other person fished in back. I put the rear person on a pedestal to give them a bit more of a vantage point. I made my rowers seat the cooler for storage, fish box, etc.

    3 man

    4 man

    If memory serves me right, I maxed out my tubes. Frame was 4' wide inside the tubes and 12' long. Since the rower barely fishes, I designed standing platforms just to stand up and scout. But left the floor open so in case you hit a low stretch you could drop down and give that extra lift and hopefully make it through the slot.

    Once I move into my next house, I'm going to design another boat and have it built. Already have the design in my head. A little more versatile then the one above. At the time, I was fishing guys constantly. Then it went down to only getting one guy a trip to go. So would have a rear seat always empty (and this was a one piece frame). Will go back to a two or three piece frame. Like maybe a rowers and front passenger one piece frame. Then an add on rear seat. But this was a great boat.
  20. HTML:
    Will go back to a two or three piece frame.
    The modular frames are the way to go. I always enjoy the solo trips and the way the rowing compares. Seems very little effort shoots you where you want to go. But taking a friend along means more fishing for me.:)

    I like your sliding seats. My Gude is too narrow for it, but we're looking into a wider 3 man raft. Your forward seating makes sense for the lighter passengers.

Share This Page