Pontoon Modifications

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by Ed Call, Jan 28, 2009.

  1. Ed Call

    Ed Call Mumbling Moderator Staff Member

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    So, while tinkering this is what I've come up with. The slider tracks are not as beefy as I'd like, but I have another heavy duty set coming. I added some plastic grip tread that is about the same thickness as the sliders so that there is mostly a flat surface. While working and tinkering on this boat I'm really impressed on its design and it is way wider than former boat. Various shots of the seat mounted on the platform, forward, back and also one of me standing on the platform. The last one shows the two pins that prevent the seat from sliding rearward until I pull them to slide back and stand up. In the forward position there are slide stops. I think I'll be getting it wet tomorrow afternoon if the day works out as planned. Let me know what you think.
     

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  2. Jim Speaker

    Jim Speaker Active Member

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    I think it looks cool, Ed. I'd be making damn sure the pins are real solid and can't possibly come loose when getting out on moving water - I was just picturing the seat accidentally sliding back as I row thru a rapid :eek: Maybe the heavy-duty track you have coming will take care of that, or maybe it's already a non-issue. Overall though I think it's well done.
     
  3. SpeySpaz

    SpeySpaz still an authority on nothing

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    nice job Ed,:thumb::thumb:
    but where's the tuna tower?:rofl:
    are the slides you have coming steel or aluminum?
     
  4. Ed Call

    Ed Call Mumbling Moderator Staff Member

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    Thanks gents. The pins that I'm using now only go through the wood deck so they are not the "ideal" version. When my stainless sliders arrive, should I choose to keep this mod going, I'll bore a pin hole through the overlap of the sliders and the pins I use will be the ball lock type that require a push of their release button to come out. Oh, the tuna tower was at the house, hanging on the pegs where its alter ego "portable ladder" rests.

    The swivel seat also does not lock, and I'll add a locking lever or pin for that too if I opt ot keep the swivel. I'd actually like the seat to be lower to allow more leg in the water for kicking. I was only in to about the mid shin/calf area today.

    I've seen guys fishing the beaches on milk crates and folding ladders. Not putting one on my pontoon. No chance I'm targeting tuna in this craft.
     
  5. Jerry Daschofsky

    Jerry Daschofsky Moderator Staff Member

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    Hey Mumbles, they sell a swivel seat base that does just that. Already has a trigger to unlock it to do a full swivel, then pull that latch down to lock it in place. Can be locked in any position if memory serves me right.

    What type of frame do you have Mumbles? Is it a powder coated steel? If so, make sure you recoat the places you drill. You can get by with heating it up and putting powdercoating on it. Then reapplying heat to harden it more. Will stop it from rusting on you. Sucks, been there and done that by accident. Didn't realize what I had done until it rusted from inside out. Didn't treat the drill points (my mistake). Just food for thought. Had to have a buddy put a sleeve over that point and reweld to reinforce it. Thankfully, was free for me.
     
  6. Jerry Daschofsky

    Jerry Daschofsky Moderator Staff Member

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    BTW Mumbles. Excellent design. I wouldn't have thought of that system. Think you should sell it to the boat companies. LOL. Seriously though. ;)

    Looks of your frame, looks like lightweight aluminum? Don't worry about drill points if it is.
     
  7. Ed Call

    Ed Call Mumbling Moderator Staff Member

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    Jerry, I was not aware of a locking swivel. I'll search around for one, thank you. By any chance does anyone make a swivel seat that does not add to the overall elevation? I'm not necessarily looking for a high seated rowing machine, I like being down at the lowest possible point. Just thinking in print on that idea.

    As for the frame, this boat has an aluminum frame. I know some will not be fans of AL and say that steel is real and aluminum is for beverage containers, but I'll do my best to keep it intact. So far, no drilling into the frame. I'm mounting the deck with bolts through the already existing frame holes. Since I don't normally disassemble my boat I'm not concerned with it being bolted together rather than using the "quick pins".
     
  8. Jerry Daschofsky

    Jerry Daschofsky Moderator Staff Member

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    Mumbles, I only knock aluminum for hardcore whitewatering. Which I do from time to time (not as often now thanks to my permanent injury). For basic floating and fishing it's fine.

    I do believe Cabela's carries those lock mechanisms. Onto seats, you won't get much lower then a standard swivel based seat. So if you have about 1" of heighth off the frame deck, be blessed.
     
  9. Jerry Daschofsky

    Jerry Daschofsky Moderator Staff Member

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  10. Jim Speaker

    Jim Speaker Active Member

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    Oh, man you have to add this...
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Ed Call

    Ed Call Mumbling Moderator Staff Member

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    No way Jim, I'm going full on lazy boy, arm rests, reclining...but I'll add the clamp on umbrella or a full on bimini top for those really sunny days. I better start working on my sidearm casts, no?

    Four pages, 50 replies, good to see that I've got some good info out of you guys and also taken a good ribbing.
     

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