Discussion in 'Fly Tying' started by GAT, Jun 2, 2013.

  1. Rainy's sells a couple different styles of closed-cell foam pre-shaped bodies that I've never used before. As I ended up fishing for LMB yesterday, I'm back into bass mode.

    I wasn't exactly sure what to do with the frog body so I winged it.

    The yellow body is longer than the norm and I've never tied a popper with that style before so it's worth a try. Yellow and black poppers are the ones that work the best for me... but in a smaller body size.

    We'll see. None of this means a thing if they don't work.

    Bugtyer, Jeff Dodd and McNasty like this.
  2. i really like that frog one. that'd work good in some ponds i fish.
    kelvin likes this.
  3. I'm most interested in trying that guy. I've caught some of my largest LMB on frog patterns but they were made with the traditional, squat body. The knotted legs are also something new for me.
  4. i think the legs look good, frogs do have pretty long toes. some of my biggest bass i caught before i started fly fishing on frog patterns.
  5. Which frog bodies are you talking about? Rainy's? Or?

    I know we have some foam cutters we use at PHW for making them. Turn out really nice. We use them on one of the local lakes we fish that are full of bass.

    BTW, some of those Rainy's heads are great to work with. Glue them on (I'm assuming you're talking about the ones with the pre cut hole where you can just slide it on the hook), paint/color with marker to your liking, then we clear coat them. Work great.
  6. I'm talking about Rainy's. The pre-drilled guys.

    Originally I used pre shaped bodies from Edgewater but they disappeared. It appears Rainy's bought them out and are now offering the popper bodies.

    I use Testers for spray painting the bodies as needed... it eventually wears off but I can always repaint them if I want. I prefer hard body poppers over clipped deer hair because no matter what I've tried for floatant, the hair bodies eventually start sinking and don't pop nearly as well as the hard bodies.

    I also use the solid foam bodies from Spirit River. They are a little more difficult to install on the hooks than are the Edgewater (now Rainy's) style.
  7. i have a batch that need tails


    McNasty and GAT like this.
  8. Norm, your's are far too pretty to actually use. You obviously take this popper stuff VERY seriously :) That's artwork, not bass patterns.

    Are those slotted, pre-shaped bodies?
  9. yes they are the slotted hard foam type with the popper hooks


  10. Okay, I have some of those. Sometimes I need to mess with the slot in the body to get the hook to fit.
  11. yes

    i clean out the slot of any flash left over from the molding process but i do not alter the width of the slot to accommodate the hook shank. i then wrap a layer of thread on the shank where the popper body will be. coat the thread with super glue and attach the popper to the hook. after that is dried i will fil in the slot with a uv resin. file that down if required.
    Duane J likes this.
  12. I was using epoxy to fill the gap but I should look into the UV resin. It would dry quicker with the UV flashlight I purchased. The bend in the hook shank is effective in prohibiting the body from shifting on the shank. I use the same hook for the closed cell foam pencil popper bodies.
  13. Those look very nice GAT, as do the great assortment displayed by Mr. Frechette.
  14. Beautiful work. Did you make the gizmo that's holding them yourself (if so, how?), or is it something that you can buy?
  15. GAT, Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler is great for filling the hook slot. Very easy to sand smooth. After a couple coats of paint it's impossible to tell the slot is there at all.
  16. Does Elmer's wood filler work with dense foam? I recently bought some of the expensive UV goop so I'll probably try that the next time I make one of those style of hard body poppers.

    Right now I'm working with the closed cell, soft foam bodies and rebuilding some of my old cork body poppers. The feather kickers look like crap and the rubber legs have rotted away but the bodies are fine. So I'm cutting off all the crap and starting over with the body.

    I don't like how hackle feathers shrink up on surface poppers so I'm changing to buck tail fibers. They keep their shape when wet.

    I figure I need to rebuild a dozen or so poppers.

    So... no time to mess with the slotted body poppers at this time.
  17. The wood filler works fine with foam. Use epoxy or CA glue to attach the body to the hook, allow to dry, and then go in with the wood filler. I use a fingernail file to smooth the surface after it's dry. Very professional looking after paint. The three small poppers are hard foam. The large popper is carved balsa.

    Attached Files:

  18. Once upon a time in a fly tying room in a different galaxy, I used cork for all my poppers.
    Eventually, the quality of cork went the way of the wild goose and was replaced with foam and plastic.

    Fortunately, the bodies for those old cork poppers are still in pretty good shape. So, I've been rebuilding the ones that look like my dog used them for chew toys.

    That is a huge advantage of hard body poppers. These have been around since since the days you could buy a decent cork body so they are quite old. Ancient in the world of fly tying.

    For the ones that are in non-usable condition, I'm switching from feather kickers to buck tail. The hair maintains the shape when wet much, much better than saddle hackle and are more durable. I'm also replacing the eyes on the ones that have gone blind.

    McNasty likes this.
  19. The ones I'm talking about from Rainy's, you actually slide the hook INTO the hole (not a slot). Toss some epoxy partway onto hook and then slide through until eye pops out. No slot and work great. We need to sit and tie poppers one of these nights at the WTB.

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