preformed grip question

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by Finni, Aug 9, 2006.

  1. How do I know if I have ruined my preformed grip?

    I am reaming out the aft grip on a spey rod (lower grip) and have opened the mouth of the hole too wide. When I put the blank in the grip, there is a millimeter, or so, of space between the two, just at the opening, the rest of the grip is snug. Is this beyond use? Cosmetically, you won't be able to see the gap because the reel seat will cover it. I am just worried about the cork being spongy there when I cast.

    It is a little hard to explain, but is that gap too wide for glue to effectively cure? Or should I just fork over the $ and get a new grip and start over?

    I guess I can put it on and then decide. If I don't like it, I can somehow get the grip off and replace it, since it is only 5" long and at the very end of the rod (nothing above or below to have to take off).

    What does everyone think? I will try to get a picture of it and post it, but since I don't have a digital camera, it might be tricky.

    Thanks, Finni
     
  2. mark the location on the blank where the oversized hole portion of the grip and place painters masking tape around the circumference of the blank such that you create a added bit of blank thickness to take up the space and then glue the grip in place. Basically, you are shimming the grip so it stays centered and snug on the blank.

    By the way, this is not an uncommon problem with fitting pre-made grips onto a tapered rod blank.

    Regards,
     
  3. I'm not much of a rod builder, but epoxy cures chemically, so thickness is a non-issue. Think about how much ends up between the blank and the walls of the reel seat. If you fill the gap with epoxy there is no way you'll notice any abnormal give in the grip either.
     
  4. If you decide to fill the section in, I suggest either first wrapping masking tape, or better yet, fibreglass tape to fill the gap. Epoxy is strong stuff in terms of adhesion, but it's kinda brittle. But filling the gap with something else, you make it so that the epoxy won't chip off and provide a wonderful "rattle" latter on.

    -- Cheers
    -- James
     
  5. They are all great suggestions. I as well keep a small hyperdermic needle that I can get the epoxy right where I want it. Such as in the voids your talking about. sprinkle some cork dust on it, tap it into place, and call it good.

    Is that how you spell hyperdermic???? Got me, I'm too tired for spell check.

    Greg
     
  6. If you use an epoxy designed for rod building it will cure into a flexible bonding agent and never become brittle, chip, crack, or break up.

    Regards,
     
  7. You might consider using a polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue or Elmers Ultimate Glue (used to be called Probond). These glues produce a foam-like substance that hardens and acts as a filler. It's important to moisten the cork and blank before applying.

    I use the Elmer's product to glue strips together on my bamboo rods, and also to attach grips. I know bamboo rodmakers who use it for ferrules as well. It's tough stuff! I see no reason why it wouldn't work on a graphite or fiberglass blank.

    Tom
     
  8. Yakima hit it on the head. IMHO, go to a co-op (farm store) and get a big hypo. needle, and inject some "rod bond" handle epoxy into the void. The stuff stays flexible and is designed for this.
     

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