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Raft rod storage ideas

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37K views 36 replies 26 participants last post by  Tyee Matt 
#1 ·
I'm starting from scratch here. New raft (14' AIRE 143D / NRS Bighorn II frame) is about ready but I'm short on rod storage for intact / strung rods that you can stow and access on the go. Thinking on one or two PVC pipes with a 1/3 cut away so there is an open top for access with enough left for protection. That or, what did you come up with?

Thanks,

Chris
 
#4 ·
Glad you started this Chris. I was just about to do so myself. Love to see photos of anyone's setup.

Here's what I've found so far from various searches.

Tightlines Trailer's Rod Dog design (which I think is pretty cool):







There's also this mentioned on Moldy Chum from River Runner Essentials (who's website doesn't exist any more):



And this from a forum thread:



Some commercially made ones from Riverboat Works (crappy tiny photo):

 
#5 ·
. Thinking on one or two PVC pipes with a 1/3 cut away so there is an open top for access with enough left for protection. That or, what did you come up with?
PVC and heat gun worked for bending for me, I used a table saw to rip out a section to allow easy access to the rod while still allowing a decent amount of protection for the rod. The tubes bend into a quarter circle (90 deg) under the front deck which means I can get a 9 foot rod in 8 foot of boat length. Hardest part of heat forming with the gun is filling PVC with sand first.



 
#6 ·
#7 ·
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Wow, you mean my buddy and I aren't the only ones to struggle with this problem and geek out some solutions?

Here's some pictures of our rod holders for our Super Duper Puma. You think with all the tickering we've done and float trips I'd have some decent close up photos but I can't find any better that these. Anyway, our solution are just two capped PVC pipes, half of the diameter scooped out for the last 30", notched and connected to a Fish Cat rod holder. Ignore the West Marine saltwater rod holders mounted on the rear stand up brace (they are only there as a courtesy for our more unfortunate and sadly confused bi-piscatorial friends, not us of course.....well, someone needs to take them fishing and show them "proper steelhead fishing").

Among other things, the main design criteria is to, first and foremost, provide solid protect; then, ease of stowage and deployment; minimize obstruction for boarding/deboarding boat; utilize available materials at minimum cost. The pro's are that this solution pretty much satisfies all those criteria. The con is/was unforeseen: road grit, we suspect, gets up into the tubes and scratches the rods going in and out. Many of my guide wraps are hazed in spots aligned along the spline. Either that or the PVC is naturally abrasive. I've been tinkering around with a solution to that problem so if you have ideas like a spray coating please speak up! I'm suspecting the Tight Lines Trailers may have the same abrasion problem, eh? Oh, one more thing, this is a work in progress and plan to paint them black soon and haven't found one yet that makes me confident it will stick to the PVC so if anyone has a good recommendation for a matte black paint, I'd love to know.

Getting my geek out,

Ellis
 
#9 ·
plan to paint them black soon and haven't found one yet that makes me confident it will stick to the PVC so if anyone has a good recommendation for a matte black paint

At your local hardware store, works good
Krylon Fusion for Plastic Paint Satin Black

Fusion for Plastic Paint is the first paint of its kind that bonds directly to most plastics. This no-prep, superbond paint bonds easily to PVC pipes, plastic conduit, vinyl molding and siding.
Product Specifications
TYPE Superbond Paint
SUGGESTED USE Interior-Exterior
SPECIAL FEATURES Bonds To Plastic
SIZE 12oz.Can
PACKAGE QUANTITY 6
FINISH Satin
COLOR Satin Black
 
#12 ·
PVC and heat to shape works best. Velcro straps at opening to keep rod in place. What I used on my cats. What I like the most about PVC its rod is encapsulated. First if someone steps down tube takes bulk of weight. Next when it comes to trees and brush, It'll slide right by. If rods are kept in open at all there's a chance for something to grab it. Not that I know from personal experience lol.
 
#13 ·
I've got a similar problem on my Clack 16WF-the rods are ok, but the reels stick up since this model doesn't have the cutouts to house the reels. Tried to put `em vertically on the rear braces, but they get caught on overhangs when I'm snuggling the anchor into the bank if there's any overhanging stuff at all. So, back to square one.
 
#14 ·
Alex - the white plastic vertical rod holders were initially a bit of a joke and only temporary. One of our baitchunker friends was going to show us some of his "secret spots" on a steelhead safari on the OP so he convinced us to indulge in this sinful piscatorial heresy. I picked that rod holder up at West Marine and zip tied it to the brace, viola! Works great of course for bait casting rigs but not so good for fly rods - the fly reels won't slide down far enough to keep the rods tight and vertical. You can kinda see that in third picture I posted. And yes, it's very dangerous around overhanging hanging branches wether anchoring or floating. They are, however, often quite convenient so we've just kept them in place and use them with caution.

Funny story, once on the Clearwater, I'm on the oars and my buddy is up front casting his massive lead weighted and slimy baited corky. In my mind, he'd had his turn fishing way too long so I got him to agree to changing positions at the next whole. We zoom by a fishy little slot and he spins around and whips a quick cast at the hole. Snap! WTF?! Next thing I know, I feel my fly line on my shoulder and look down to see about 4" of the tip of my fly rod dangling in front of me. That very next hole he hooks up and lands a feisty 8 pound mint silver hen. Rat bastard!

She was a wild fish so he did safely release her, but he's still a low down rotten rat bastard.

Great to see everyone's ingenuity in dealing with this problem.
 
#15 ·
Chris, you Have seen the full-length grey PVC that I use inboard of my cataract tubes nestled in the triangle formed when the drop down rails touched tubes. They ride nicely in that frame triangle fucked back held in place by straps and the tube. They are not easy to get rods into were out of on the move. I have two tubes on each Side, allowing me to carry at least 4 rods top, but creatively I have had many more in there. For the passengers, I have short sections of PVC rod holders attached to the Leendarr railing, this works for my girls. Then the only one without a rod is the guy with yours in his hands. So I get mine when we stop. Let me know if you need any photos, but I'm sure you remember seeing mine. I can shoot some photos and send them your way if you'd like.
 
#20 ·
I have had a 9' double rod tube made by a local commercial sewing company. The last 4' are left open to accommodate easy rod removal by the angler in the elevated fishing seats of my NRS Frame. The best part is it is easily removed, strapped to any boat, mine or a buddies as well it is a Cordura exterior (Green, Red, Grey, or Blue) and ultra suede interior. It looks sharp ( super important) and does not scratch your rods clear coat finish (even more important!) like just raw plastic or aluminum. There is a shop in West Glacier MT. that stocks them, and as well I think a local rep might be dragging a couple around the West... This is the best "Pro" looking solution I have found. Sorry for the poor pic, I'll try to rally up another soon.

Cheers!

K~
Water Plant Boat Vehicle Motor vehicle
 
#23 ·
After I did all my painful bending with a heat gun (I couldn't get good bends without first filling the pipe with sand which was an extra time consuming step) a guy (who builds swimming pools for a living) pointed out flexible PVC to me. It's much more expensive than the straight lengths ($25 versus $5), but still not that expensive if it saves you an hour per rod holder. Looks like a swimming pool or spa supply place would be the place to start looking.



http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Flex-P...zmap=BX95150&gclid=CLPy04-z7LsCFQlgMgodVSYAGA
 
#24 ·
After I did all my painful bending with a heat gun (I couldn't get good bends without first filling the pipe with sand which was an extra time consuming step) a guy (who builds swimming pools for a living) pointed out flexible PVC to me. It's much more expensive than the straight lengths ($25 versus $5), but still not that expensive if it saves you an hour per rod holder. Looks like a swimming pool or spa supply place would be the place to start looking.
I wonder what kind of strength it has. A guy could accidentally step on PVC and it would likely be fine. Would this stuff be the same? Or would it be more like plastic tubing and crush?
 
#26 ·
I want to build the same rod holder as luke but looking at the pictures i am asking my self if there are any issues changing out rods while on the water. Luke is your front seat fisherman able to reach down and pull the rod out while moving? I was thinking about enlarging the cut to maybe 18inches to allow for access.
 
#28 ·
You might also consider a larger cutout and breaking your Spey rods in half. That's what I've done for the long rods just to keep the length of the storage tube shorter. This way the rods can be retrieved from inside the boat if need be. Nearly always, however, I'd be pulled up on a gravel bar in order to employ the Spey rods.
 
#27 ·
Actually, no. In order to remove a rod, you need to be out of the boat and pull straight back. This also prevents broken tips as well. I thought about this when designing the cut and decided I wanted the added protection as a lot of people use the tube as a "step" when entering/exiting the raft, so I was fearful of making the cut too large. That being said, I think you could get away with making it larger and still have your rods be safe, you just have to find the sweet spot. Let me know what you come up with!
 
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