Recessed reel seat, oooops

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by mike doughty, Oct 29, 2005.

  1. I screwed up and epoxied the cork handle and reel seat and didn't get them lined up with the spline, f@#$ing alcohol. anyway i got the reel seat off but can't get the cork off, any suggestions?:beathead: :beathead:
  2. Carefully cut the cork off, being carefull not to damage the blank. not knowing what you used (rod bond?) to attach the cork you may get some relief from adheision by heating the cork with hot water or steam. In my experiance I've found it's better to remove it without trying to hard to spare the cork, $20-$30 for another handle (unless you turned your own) is cheaper, in most cases, than replacing a blank that was damaged trying to save a few bucks worth of cork.
  3. You may also want to consider doing nothing. I bet if you posted this question on, you would get some experts telling you to not worry about it. Many experienced builders don't pay much if any attention to the spine. (Although I always build with the spine in mind because my view is, eh, why not, no extra trouble). This may be more true for your butt section. Some heavy duty/short section blanks can't really be spined effectively. At least not by me.

    I built an 8 wt. mtlhead rod for my brother on a Dan Craft blank recently. Dan marks the spine for you. I lined everything up and glued on the cork and seat and then realized that the blank label was upside down. :beathead: Obviously Dan intended the guides to be on the stiff side of the spine. I always place them on the soft side. (The pros and cons of this are a point of much debate). The rod will catch fish but it bugged me that the label is upside down and that I was not paying attention. I am building sober going forward.
  4. Do you need to take the cork off at all, as it doesn't need to be inline with the spine? If you've got your seat off, then you should be able to turn it to where it needs to be, re-epoxy it and be good to go. You could buy an extra cork ring or two and put those on in place of any you may have damaged removing the seat. If you do need to take it off, then mtlhead has good advice on removing it. If not, then Jim has good advice, which I'll agree with. I've made more than one rod with no concern for the spine, for whatever reason.

  5. (Sorry, double post. What's up with this site now and all these double posts? And where's the option to delete a post now?)

  6. Mike, I'm afraid that any method for getting expoxied cork back off is going to make a mess and many will risk damage to the blank. How'd you get the seat back off, heat and muscle? Or did you catch it before it dried? I'd also go with just put the seat back on and build the rod. What kind of blank is it? If it's a recessed reel seat kodiak's suggestions probably won't work. You could use cork filler to fill the recess and then put on a regular seat, but that's not a good fix. Just pretend you never heard of a spine and you'll never know the difference. Maybe someone else could advise on spining the tip section and leaving the butt. I doubt that the spine of the butt section makes a big difference when casting as, expecially in fast action rods, it's the tip section that's most involved in casting.
  7. I'm going to play devils advocate here, I don't buy the "spine doesn't matter" solution. I've built ALOT of rods in the past 10+ years for people on this board and others, and the location of the spine relative to the reel, seat, and guides does have a substantial impact on the performance of the completed rod. When building on an inexpensive blank, this is one way to extract performance that most would never know is there. you can controll casting and / or fighting power-finesse with the orientation of the blank, to say it's not that important shows a lack of understanding of the psysics behind a rods action.

    As for the comment "Many experienced builders don't pay much if any attention to the spine", the only situation this would be true is in production mfg. or someone that just does'nt pay "attention to detail". Only high end mfg's will take the time to do this, but the performance shows it's time worthy of being spent. The $$ you pay for one of theese (T&T, Sage, Winston, ect....) has alot to do with advertising and warranty, but there's a reason other than the blank and componants that the rods they build and sell perform the way they do.

    It's your choice how to repair this, just stay on track and learn as you go, it's just part of the curve. whatever you do, just keep having fun building and fishing your own rods, it's why we do it.....right???:cool:
  8. Well i've built a 1/2 dozen or so rods, but of course on the high end rod that i'm building now (sage xp), i epoxied the reel seat and cork and then realized that oh *****! i forgot to line them up with the spline. i was able to get the reel seat off just in time but couldn't budge the cork. if it wasn't a recessed one then the cork wouldn't be an issue but if i leave it the way that it is the spine would be off to the side of the rod in relation to where the reel sits. i have wondered if the spine on the butt section was a big deal, but i don't know. obviously the spine on the tip is of importance.
  9. Ouch, an XP! Since you made the big investment you might want to remove the cork no matter how big the mess and start over. Be real careful not to nick that blank with whatever use to do it. Heat can soften epoxy. I'd try to break the rings apart at least into smaller sections and try a hair dryer or heat gun and see if it will soften so you can twist the sections off. You'll never get the whole length hot enough. Possibly soaking in very hot water would help, but if it doesn't you have to let it dry out before trying something else. An exacto knife is an option but be careful of the blank. You may well void your warranty whatever you do. If it were me I'd spine the tip and leave the but alone. An XP is not going to flex much in the butt section unless your fighting a fish, not casting. Usually a badly spined rod will cast a bit to one side, from all I've ever read thats really about the only effect. There's some very experienced builders of the board who may weigh in later, so don't get to drinking and try to get the thing off right away :p
  10. Mike you could also remove the ring(s) with the recess and expoxy on a ring to replace it, then use another type of reel seat. Or fill it and add the other ring to cover the filled recess and the go with another seat. Or, fill the recess, attach another ring, with a recess, properly oriented and then attach your old recess. If that filled recess is covered it's probably going to be OK. Trouble is you are always going to know its there, even if no one else would ever notice it. :rofl:

    Finish the rod, slam it in a car door and send it back! :thumb:
    Just kidding of course!
  11. Tony there are no rings on this.
  12. Sorry to be unclear. I meant cork rings. I hadn't actually looked at one of those things for a couple years. You can see how you can cut all the way around the cork up to the point where it is in contact with the blank. Then rotate the part you cut till its properly aligned and epoxy it back to the rest of the cork. If the reel seat gives it proper support and you expoxy it to the reel seat also, then it should give you no problem. Too bad you are not near Gregs Custom Rods in Lake Stevens or I'm sure they could fix it right up for you. Scott from Gregs may have some good advice when he sees the thread. In fact why don't you email or pm him. Scott Behn. They do a lot of rod repair so they must have a good method for removing cork. Nice pose by the way.:p
  13. The pose is the best i can do. i don't see the seperate rings on the cork so i can't remove the ring and even if i could see them i still wouldn't be able to remove it. i'll shoot scott a pm. thanks tony
  14. Alcohol and rod building don't mix.....very interesting posts. Alcohol in moderation is very acceptable and encouraged...but reference to alcohol in the Fuc*#ing...simply means you slipped....and the rod suffered. When I slip I just hit the keyboard on this site...that is why I have so many damn stupid posts....but not all are stupid....?
  15. Wonna bet??????????????????????????:p :p :p :p :p :p
  16. Ouch...only took me 7 weeks to respond. C'mon there must have been one or two.....I'm not a fruitcake but sometimes I can be a nut-shell.

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