Removing wraps without damaging blank?

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by Fishful Thinking, Nov 10, 2008.

  1. Fishful Thinking

    Fishful Thinking Member

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    About 8 years ago I was given a Winston LT5 kit which I built up after taking a rod building class. I was pretty happy with it then, but now I realize I could have done better. I'd like to re-do about half of the wraps. I've tried taking off a wrap, and it seems to damage the green coating. How do I get the wraps off without damaging the blank? I called Winston and they said they just cut them off, but maybe they have a more steady hand...

    Rich
     
  2. Bryan Williamson

    Bryan Williamson Willybethere

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    Just did this last night. It's pretty easy, just go slow and be careful. Use a razorblade and, to start, cut right on top of the guide (under the wraps). This way you don't cut the blank and have a "back stop". Then it gets a bit tricky. All you need to do is cut through the epoxy, then you can peal the rest off. Just go slow.
     
  3. Blood Knot

    Blood Knot Old to the board

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    What I do is cut with an exacto on a tangent to the blank at the guidefoot, where the thread rises above the level of the blank. Use a light hand, and don't let the blade get off tangential to the blank.
     
  4. loose ferrule

    loose ferrule New Member

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    As stated prior, cut the wraps on the top of the guide foot and start peeling. I've found that heating the wrap with a blow dryer softens the epoxy on the wrapping and you can peel off with your finger nails.
     
  5. Tyler Speir

    Tyler Speir Artist

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    There is an easy way to do it. I can strip all the guides off clean a rod in about 30 seconds. I don't know if I should recomend doing it or not. I dont want to be responsible for damaging your blank.

    I use a small creme brulee torch and heat up the wrap. I point it directly on top of the guide foot( Not to close). Then take a fresh razor and cut along the top of the foot so you don't cut the blank. It will all flake off with ease.


    Do not point the torch on the blank it will burn...
     
  6. Mike Ediger

    Mike Ediger Active Member

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    You say it damages the green coating, so you you mean you are scratching the blank with the blade as you cut off the wraps...or do you mean the green coating is discolored? Sometimes the epoxy will discolor the blank and even if you remove it correctly the blank will be a different color. Not sure why this is, maybe one of the pros can say. But it is just something I have seen. If this is the case, then the blank isn't damaged, just rewrap right over the same spot and you won't be able to see the discoloration. If this isn't the issue then ignore me and do what the others guys say.
     
  7. Fishful Thinking

    Fishful Thinking Member

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    Mediger, the green coating just peels off with the wrap and epoxy. Drives me nuts, 'cause the coating can tear past the area I want to re-wrap. Maybe I need to lightly score the green coating circumferentially just beyond the wrap to keep it from tearing past that area? It seems I should be able to remove the wraps and epoxy without lifting off the damned coating. I'm trying to make the rod look better, not worse...

    Guys, I appreciate the advice. Keep it coming!

    Rich
     
  8. Mike Ediger

    Mike Ediger Active Member

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    Oh, sounds like the epoxy is pulling the paint off. Not sure what to do about that. Winston didn't give you any advice? I think I have read about the St Croix SCV blanks doing this as well. I don't think this should weaken the rod, but it would be frustrating, and the peeling may continue if you don't put something over to stop or protect it. I will be interested to see what the others say to do.
    Sorry I can't help.
    Mike
     
  9. Tyler Speir

    Tyler Speir Artist

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    heat... It will separate the epoxy from the paint. Thats the only way to do it.
     
  10. Fishful Thinking

    Fishful Thinking Member

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    Ah, but how much heat? Hair dryer heat, or heat gun heat? I don't want to weaken the resin in the blank.
     
  11. James Mello

    James Mello Inventor of the "closed eye conjecture"

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    Hair drier heat first (and probably only). Most of the epoxy used to bond rods will become viscous around 250 to 375F. The polymers in most epoxy coats will soften considerably past 130F... Only use more energetic sources if you've got 1) Lots of experience OR 2) Lots of money.
     
  12. Nooksack Mac

    Nooksack Mac Active Member

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    I've used paint/varnish stripper to loosen the coating on the wrapping threads. When it softens after about ten minutes, scrape it toward the center of the wrapping and remove with a dull knife blade. Repeat if necessary. Don't get any on the nearby blank, or it will remove the blank's finish there too. When the wraps and guides are removed, carefully remove any finish edge lumps with a sharp knife blade and/or a fine file.
     
  13. Steve Kokita

    Steve Kokita FISHON206

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    How about if you want to change from single foot to snake guides? What cleans off the epoxy residue with out taking off the blanks finish? Acetone? I recently cut off some guides from a rod that 5" of the tip broke off. I am thinking of salvaging it and making a kids rod but is there a way to clean the old epoxy off the blank?? :confused:
     
  14. YAKIMA

    YAKIMA AKA: Gregory Mine

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    actone has always worked for me on graphite rods. soak a rag, wrap it around the rod, give it a few minutes and it will scrape right off. I have done this on counless blanks and never had a problem. just don't do it on fiberglass rods.
     

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